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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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partsouq is more expensive than amazon, and with amazon I get faster shipping, should be here by Saturday.

 

I emailed them to get pricing, if its worthwhile I'll have them rebuilt, and have an extra set for a rainy day or to sell.

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I was actually thinking of the wrong thing, I was thinking of people logging AFR through the TGV but from this looks like oil pressure is also possible... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-afr-oil-temp-oil-pressure-rear-o2-tgv-left-275477.html

 

and if I remember correctly this is the plug you're looking for

[ATTACH]269283[/ATTACH]

 

I can confirm that oil (or fuel) pressure can be logged via a deleted TGV as long as you use a pressure transducer with an output of 0-5 volts.

 

That's also the correct location to put the oil pressure sensor (transducer).

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partsouq is more expensive than amazon, and with amazon I get faster shipping, should be here by Saturday.

 

I emailed them to get pricing, if its worthwhile I'll have them rebuilt, and have an extra set for a rainy day or to sell.

Wow. Shipping has increased since July. I bought most of my oem parts for my new engine there and never paid more than $50 for two day International shipping.
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662551244_driversideoilfeedocv.thumb.jpg.2069369c5168897cc547cfa7c91de9cf.jpg

 

1408971996_driversideoilfeedinstalled.thumb.jpg.be06be45243f8a82aaee16e36e16736a.jpg

 

I have IP&T Oil feed kit, so I don't really need to install passenger side feed at this moment, but for those using the normal oil line, I believe it needs to be installed before or around Step 8, because I think it needs to go under the large cooling pipe that attaches to the top of the block because it is a fixed metal line vs the ip&t braided line, which you can snake under things.

Edited by Tehnation
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Finished timing belt last night. I didn't realize documenting all these bolts, etc. would be such a pita, but once I'm done, i'm going to go back over everything and detail it like the first several steps I did. I have a ton of photos so it should be good.

 

 

1316232682_timingbeltcoveron.thumb.jpg.a9c5882634b94c79d8e9438d0c7e1fdb.jpg

 

466749948_timingbeltcoveroff.thumb.jpg.71d557e82306f6bc72af959e5ef7459d.jpg

 

I used this guys vid for a refresher

 

 

The gist is you leave the bottom passenger side pulley and smaller top driver side pulley for last, you set the center mark with the dotted line on belt, do the timing for passenger side intake, then exhaust, then driver side intake, then exhaust, install final two pulleys and then pulley tensioner pin.

Edited by Tehnation
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On another note!

 

I was looking at my old crusty and rusty exhaust manifold and ...... its time to upgrade. At first I was going to go for the unequal setup but after researching it, i'm leaning more towards equal length....

 

Anyone ?

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go = hp?

 

at the end of the day, i don't really care about "subaru rumbles" or any other superficial nonsense..... straight performance is priority :) . And the el headers provide more efficiency and reliability from what I researched. I want to rev to 8krpm, and it looks like el does a better job than uel.

 

Some links below with some sound comparisons..... tbh ALL of them sound like a ricer to me!!! I actually prefer the el sound :lol:, uel just sounds wrong to me... always has... I bought a subaru for its platform, 4cyl turbo awd, everything else was an after thought.

 

Basically I think of it this way, in world rally championship do subarus use el or uel? From my knowledge they all sound like el headers, I could be wrong. But I am going to use whatever they are using lol!

 

 

https://www.comeanddriveit.com/engine/equal-vs-unequal-length-exhaust-manifolds

 

Edited by Tehnation
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hmmm so now to choose 4-2-1 or 4-1 exhaust manifold.... 4-1 seems like the best for high rpm.

 

I'm thinking of this guy.

 

https://www.maperformance.com/collections/exhaust-system-manifolds-headers/products/maperformance-16ga-ej257-header-2005-2017-subaru-wrx-sti-map-sub-elh

 

which of those manifold will give you the mid-range performance, for a DD that's more important.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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To my knowledge the el will give you better everything. As to 4-2-1 or 4-1 I'm not really sure, i got the impression 4-1 helps the top end better.

 

Mid range is important but i'm chasing a way to have hp curve positive around 6.5-7k rpm and at least flatten out or slight dip up to 8k rpm. I want to rev to 8k rpm, and need a valid reason for it. If its not making power up there then there's no point, so all my mods are for hi rpm.

 

At the end of the day DD=racecar :lol:

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8k RPM on a DD is expensive. On a racecar, 8k is more like 7500, because running 8k down the straight banging off the rev limiter is the best way to an engine rebuild.

 

Also making all your hp at 8k means you're not on boost until 6k or so. So you'll be Prius slow everywhere.

 

If you want a "fun" curve, work on getting a flat torque line for as long as possible. Mine was 4000 - 7000 at 335tq. At 2500 RPM, I had 285tq. On the street, I used 3rd as the only gear. On the highway, I'd use 4th if I wanted to wind it out a bit. In 3rd, I was always in the torque range for instant acceleration.

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FWIW, I was enjoying to power in 3rd gear yesterday in my wagon. It pull's nice on the back roads with these cooler air temps. Nice to get tunnel vision as the trees go past.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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tbh, I have no clue where the dyno cards will fall lol, but If I can get power up to 7k then i'm golden. I just want a wider powerpand, much wider, as wide as possible. I would gladly take the hit in the low end to have way more mid and high end power. I'm clueless with subaru high end tuning so I'm just shooting from the hip parts wise. I really can't wait to get it on the dyno to see what happens. I'm going to need the perfect turbo, i'm starting with a 20g so we will see how that works.
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Just so you know, putting the power at the upper end means you have to drive at the upper end to use it. I got 7mpg driving at the upper end and mid 20s at the lower.

 

As hp is a derivative of torque, you are looking for the widest torque band, which is not necessarily highest HP.

If you are still on a 5mt, about 330to 350tq is more than enough to destroy gears. Especially if you are not a smooth shifter. A longer band of torque will let you use a gear for longer. If you are watching rally videos, keep in mind they rebuild every race or two. They use a custom transmission made for that abuse.

 

335tq from 4000 to 7000 was a heady experience. Adding light weight wheels and tires made a huge difference, too.

 

Putting all the tq at the top end, means you have a Honda VTEC, yo! It's not fun, either on track or street. On the Dyno, sure.

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Rally videos? You need hp in the top end or once the car is moving. Tq is going to crap out way before hp, and then all your left with is rpm, more rpm = more hp, as long as you can keep torque curve somewhat flat, rpm can offset the drop in tq.

 

Heres some physics for those that don't understand what we are talking about lol. Torque (lb/ft) = 5252 x Power (HP) / Speed (RPM), therefore HP = Torque x RPM / 5252, so basically hp is pretty much torque x rpm,

 

I want a flat if not positive slope at 6-7k rpm, and hopefully hold flat or with a slight negative curve after 7k

 

Something like this guy!! note on the lower hp/tq curves how the tq flattens out around 4500 rpm and then decreases after 5750 rpm but the hp keeps going up because the rpms are increasing.

AlexCorrected.jpg

 

I was going through dynos on nasioc, lots of people make power at 7k, seems quite common.

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=700004&page=36

Edited by Tehnation
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