Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

[Tehnation]

whoa whoa whoa ..... blast plates!?!?!? Blast plates were not discussed in class teacher!!! Please do tell!!!

[Tehnation]

you sexy bitch you!!! I was looking at this crazy sh** and just cringing LOL

 

https://www.par-engineering.com/product/ty75sh-set-subaru-5mt-1st4th-synchromesh-engagement-gearset/

 

This seems a bit more accomodating!

http://shop.mooreperformanceparts.com/moore-performance/moore-performance-blast-plates/mp5mtbp/i-2280992.aspx

[Tehnation]

I am aiming for 400-500awhp @ 8krpm with a bnr billet 20g. I was going to get a .003 ptw, but I was reading this post where this guy aims for 0.0025-0.0027. So I was just looking for some second opinions, or any info on the subject. Also trying to figure out which category of gapping I fall into with a 20g turbo!

 

post:

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2809965

 

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i452/tehnation/ringgaps.png

[NSFW]

For comparison, my GT3076 made 377whp at 22 or 23psi. I'm guessing you'll be at the upper end of 'medium' or the low end of 'high' boost.

[NSFW]

Also, part of the reason I went with that turbo was that I figured it was the biggest I could go without needing trans/diff/axle upgrades.

 

And then a few months after I got it, two people here with about the same amount of power blew 3rd gear. LittleBlueGT was one, I forgot who the other was.

 

So I went 6MT. I've you've over 400 your 5MT is probably not going to last forever. I have no idea how much "blast plates" will help, but it's an interesting idea. I don't remember those being an option back then.

[Tehnation]

How much hp can the 6mt handle? There's probably a writeup on converting to a 6mt, anyone know it?.... i guess I should start doing my hw, and getting the pieces together.... toss this on the more sh** to do after I get it back on the road pile....

 

I'll probably just use the 5mt until it breaks, use my AAA Plus(5 free tows up to 99 miles every year, worth every god damn penny!!!!), tow it back home and then do a 6mt swap..... damnit..... god damnit....

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/6mt-master-swap-thread-107137.html

 

What the hell is this..... oooooooohhhhhh boy to many options.....

[Tehnation]

I basically need to change the entire damn drivetrain........ this does not look like fun!!! So there are 3 different 6mts, and 2 different rear differentials , but you say the spec b 6mt has taller gearing like the 5mt, but lacks dccd.... How would I install dccd if my car doesn't have the electronics for it, how does that work? ....... yeaa..... i'll think about all this another day.... dear god, thats so much info to go over... lol Edited August 10, 2018 by Tehnation

[Tehnation]

does any company upgrade 5mts?

 

What did you do NSFW? It might be easier to just cheat of your test:lol:

[NSFW]

There used to be two 6MT swap threads... mine got merged into that one.

 

My recipe was copy-pasted into the first post though.

 

I don't really know what the 6MT's limits are, but I'm pretty sure it's well over 500whp.

 

DCCD is over-rated IMO. I'm running a DCCD trans without a DCCD controller and I'm perfectly happy with it that way. If I was racing I might feel differently about it, but I'm not. I had a DccdPro but generally ran with it disabled because spinning the rear tires is kind of fun now and then. So one day while screwing with wiring under the dash I removed it to get it out of the way... and didn't put it back... maybe one day, but probably not.

 

I think I found a stronger gear set for the 5MT back in the day, but it cost about the same as a 6MT, so it wasn't very appealing. I don't remember any specifics but you might try PPG's web site. I know they make 6MT gear sets (for 15 or 20 grand).

Edited August 11, 2018 by NSFW

[Tehnation]

Which dccdpro controller did you get?

 

https://www.dccdpro.com/shop/

 

which tranny did you go with? 400-500whp is my goal, and a 6th gear would be extremely nice on the highway.

 

The Spec B 6MT has a 50/50 torque split, lacks DCCD and has an open front diff, but is less expensive

04/05 STI 6MT has a 35/65 torque split, open center diff, and DCCD

06+ STI 6MT has a 41/59 torque split, helical center diff, and DCCD

 

I'm assuming the 04/05 6mt because your spinning the tires! Hmm dccd sounds good. Can I adjust the torque split to whatever I want with the dccdpro or is it just preset settings? I wand dccd and an r180 rear differential. Now to figure out open vs helical center diff.

 

Besides a dccd controller the upgrade is purely mechanical right? No ecu's or computers, just drive train parts?

Edited August 11, 2018 by Tehnation

[NSFW]

My trans and diff are both from an 04/05 STI but I had Rallispec put Spec B 5th/6th gears into the trans.

 

I think mine is the same as what they now call the DccdPro universal. It has two modes - in one mode, the knob adjusts the power to the center diff clutch pack, in the other mode the power is some magical function of throttle pedal (you have to tap into a wire near the ECU) and accelerometers, and the knob adjusts the overall strength. I honestly couldn't tell the difference on the road, and I never tracked the car with the 6MT setup.

 

For either mode, I just turned it up until it started binding in tight turns (like parking lots) and then backed it down until it stopped doing that. Either way the main thing I noticed was that I couldn't spin the rear tires, which is reasonable, but less fun, so I mostly just turned it off.

 

If I drove in snow a lot, or on steep snowy hills ever, I'd keep the DCCD controller. But it wasn't bad in snow with DCCD off. Mountain passes were just fine, it still drove like AWD. I was on snow tires though, might have felt differently using all-seasons on snow.

 

(I later switched to an Outback for snowboarding trips, mostly just because I saw too many accidents on the pass. The Outback is near stock and therefore easily replaced. The Legacy is nowhere near stock I have spent tons of hours tinkering with it.)

 

Adjustable torque split is a very misleading term, at least for every center diff I know of. Really what gets adjusted is the amount of slip that's allowed between the front and rear axles. Limited slip is better from a safety standpoint, but unlimited slip is more fun.

[LGTorv]

What do you plan to do?

I *had* planned for a VF52 + rebuild, but I'm drooling over the idea of an EG33 swap. It would honestly fit my budget a bit better if I went NA EG33 until I build up cash for a turbo and the supporting mods that I need.

 

In reality, I'll probably just end up going with the VF52. [emoji14]

Edited August 17, 2018 by LGTorv

[Tehnation]

Picked up my longblock today!

 

So my final price was $1815!! Not bad for a longblock assembly!

 

 

 

[Tehnation]

I think i pulled something getting this out of my truck.... always remember to stretch LOL!

 

Where do I begin..... sigh....

[Tehnation]

So I was expecting the fsm to have a section for putting this thing back together and unless I missed something ..... doesn't seem like there is! Anyone know if haynes or chiltons has a better writeup? If not I will try and document it while I'm putting it back together from long block with oil pump..... blaaahhh

 

I know the oil dipstick goes behind the back timing belt cover, does anything else?

 

 

Step 1: install baffle, oil pickup, oil pan, oil cooler, and backplates of engine cover and whatever goes behind them.

 

Right now I'm soaking all my parts and bolts in degreaser/cleaner. Picture after I let them soak and clean them up.

[Tehnation]

Hopefully people are still tuned in, but i'm going to make a detailed step by step rebuild guide because I'm not finding any and this is an absolute pita for morons like me who didn't label, document or take better pictures of the tear down. So I am going to slowly and in an ocd manner put it back together, so I'll take as many pictures and post as many details for the next moron... i mean guy that's trying to figure this out! So please chime in and leave some knowledge if you see anything incorrect.

 

So i'm trying to figure out if my timing belt set bolts are in that picture of my bolts..... "My name is Simon and I like to do drawings" ! Let me know if you see any bolts for installing the timing belt which will be step 2!

[Max Capacity]

I thought in the service manual there are pictures in the front of the sections that show the parts and have bolt spec's ? Isn't there a sticky on here with bolt info too...looked in the service manual and didn't see bolt info where I thought it was.

 

 

I think the set f bolts in the top row next to last set may be for the plastic TB covers.

 

Bottom row, left side long and short bolts are for the TGV's and intake manifold.

Edited September 2, 2018 by Max Capacity

[DaveWaters]

 

 

 

I know the oil dipstick goes behind the back timing belt cover, does anything else?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Water pump hoses off the bottom of the pump go behind the timing cover as well and connect to the hard lines that run atop the block and don’t forget the avics banjo minus the filter that goes in before the cover goes on.

[DaveWaters]

Please tell me that the red stuff squeeing out of the front cam caps just behind the cam seals is sealant and not assembly lube

[Tehnation]

its something... why? Its not actually squeezing out... its just there.

[DaveWaters]

The cam caps need to have sealant there. Because there is oil present on the inside but it is a very narrow area and its also a bearing surface on the inside where assembly lube is used. So if too much lube is there or the person who assembled it didn’t properly clean and add very little sealant to the surface I could see it ooze out. Most of us use either threebond or ultra grey. Perhaps the builder used a high temp red sealant. If it wipes away like oil/grease that might be a cause for concern. If its dry like sealant you’re probably fine. Check the fsm for the cam cap assembly procedure so you see what I mean.

[Tehnation]

I wouldn't worry about it.... looks like some kind of sealant.

[Tehnation]

Actually its just loctite from the bolts!

[Tehnation]

So while I'm trying to track down the part numbers for the oil baffle bolts, I figured I would backtrack a little with some other info.

 

I don't have any pictures on bolting the heads to a block because I paid to have my longblock assembled, but all that info can be found in the fsm. I used arp head studs so the procedure is different either way.

 

So I'll start with after bolting on your heads along with front cam covers.

 

Cam Cap Bolts - 10993AA000 x 16 (8 per side) not visible in pictures, moving forward i'll just type NV for not visible.

Front Cam Cap Bolts - 808106180 x 8 (4 per side) visible in pictures, moving forward i'll just type V for visible.

 

I suggest an engine stand, they are cheap and convenient and you can use your tranny to engine bolts to bolt the engine to the stand.

 

Part numbers for valve covers:

 

RH Cover Gasket - 13270AA190 NV

LH Cover Gasket - 13272AA140 NV

Spark Plug Gaskets - 13293AA051 x 4 NV

Long Valve Cover Bolts - 800606710 x 10 (5 per side) V

Short Valve Cover Bolts - 800606720 x 6 (3 per side they go to front 3 holes) V

Half Moons - 11051AA070 x 4 (2 per side) not applicable, moving forward i'll just type NA for not applicable.

IAG Aluminum Half Moons - IAG-ENG-2000SL x 4 (Its what I used so I should list them) V

 

 

 

Being that they are already on the engine this is the best I can do for this part. When I start assembling I will have more photos. Everything is already sealed I won't undo what I already paid for so... yea...

Edited September 6, 2018 by Tehnation

[Tehnation]

Mine is already installed so I'll just briefly go over what you need!

 

You need:

Oil pump - stock 15010AA300, 11mm sti pump 15010AA360 (what I have) V

Gasket - 10991AA000 V (the "(A)" in the 1st picture)

Bolts - 800706500 x 7 V

Front Crankshaft Seal - 806733030 V

 

Edited September 10, 2018 by Tehnation