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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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The thing is being able to spot a problem before it explodes in your block.... my piston ringland must have been cracked for a while. I was definitely lucky enough to decide to just stop driving it before any catastrophic damage. My fuel trims couldn't establish a proper tune, so i knew something was up. If there is one thing that will help you catch a dire situation before its to late its the fuel trims and knock. I just drove around with a jug of oil!! Oil seems to keep this motor happy and willing... you take away the oil and its kaboom!
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  • 2 months later...

So I was reading the fsm.... my bathroom literature :lol: and came across something I didn't know which makes things a lot easier for sizing your bearings. Figured i would share, after some googling.

 

So that 5 digit number are your journal sizes, 2 being standard, my block is 22323, 1 means oversized journal, and 3 means undersized journal....i think :rolleyes:

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c171/Dudley302/ID.jpg

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Fair enough, but beware about purchasing bearings based on this before you actually measure crank and mainline. Most of us seem to be finding cranks down near the lower end of spec at rebuild time, so a standard factory bearing becomes an undersize or at least a half shell if you want to run stock clearance.

 

Where did you find a translation for the number codes? Link?

 

When I built my block, the only company I could find that supplied undersize mains was ACL. They make a +0.025 mm bearing that translates to a 0.0004 thicker shell.

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hmmm..

 

ive read 2 different translations for that number code on forums, so now i'm doing more research. Doesn't say in the manual, just states that those numbers refer to journal size, like the AB refers pistons size.

 

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32514

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1591930&page=2

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That's why I asked. I've never seen anything definitive.

 

This questions gets asked all the time. We should construct a sticky on how to read the codes stamped on the top of the block -- what they mean and what it means to the guy/gal about to launch into a rebuild.

 

I've only seen 22222 blocks myself. If you have a 22323 we are in luck. When you split the case, mic the 2 shells vs the 3 shells. that will tell us a lot.

 

Do you have a ball mic?

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The numbers are definitely for the main journals! Just need to figure out what the numbers mean, i bet they mean something to a Subaru dealership...... but I doubt dealerships work with shortblocks, it's probably cheaper and faster to drop a new one in, take the old and send it somewhere to get remanufactured. So i doubt average service department would know the more i think about it.

 

journal.png.f01117f57c8df46342c3027c2b7ea0f1.png

Edited by Tehnation
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I have not seen all of this thread but my motor went on me with 201k which I think is pretty shocking given how low others had.. but I don't know or think I'm going to be reusing my crank as much as I want to save money almost every single bearing spun #3 was the worse i don't think I'm going to save any of the rods i'm just going to get a new set but I do have forged pistons this time to go in. Block was in decent shape will be going to 100 MM.

 

Like you I go to NYC weekly so I can't wait to be able to break it in..

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  • 1 year later...

Life came up and bitch slapped me.... but I'm back to racecar...... like iron mike said "everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth".

 

So I went with the Manley 15024-4, H Tuffs, i got them for a steal off amazon for 270 bucks. Don't know how, I just saw it and pulled the trigger. Got my arp head studs 260- 4701, and bc springs BC0600 for my heads.

 

Dropping off the case halves to machine shop next week, to have them balance rotating assembly, measure and hone cylinders to figure out what size pistons(either 99.5 632200C-4/632200CE-4 or 99.55 632201C-/632201CE-4) going with the Manley turbo tuffs 2618(the ptw is damn near close to stock, so longevity is better because no wall slapping) . Going with ACL for main and rod bearings, any other recommendations for bearings?

 

I thought I had everything figured out until I went to buy the cams, I was going to originally get the BC stage 2 272 cams, but it seems they have a new stage 2+ billet cam at 276 duration..... So I'm thinking I may go with them the 2+.

 

Also for pistons, I know the difference between the manley standard and extreme duty are the pins. Standard is 2.500” x .180” wall Premium Chrome Moly pin (Standard Series) included P/N 42346, and the Extreme Duty is 9310 alloy .210” wall pin (Extreme Duty Series) included P/N 42546. Not sure how this effects my build, but for a 100 dollars more why not? What significance would it play?

 

Any thoughts?

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King or ACL bearings??? My engine builder provides both but doesn't have a preference.....I was quoted 900 for hot tank, hone, rotating assembly balance @ 10k rpm(overbalance) and assembly. 900+ costs of crank and rod bearings! I called like 10 different shops.. knowledge is power... every place I called wanted to charge 425+ for balance alone, while they charge 250, which tells me all the other shops outsource!!! Always look for the source! All machine shops are not created equal! They are off on the weekends because they are at the track... honest pricing, amazing work, hard to find in the northeast!

 

This is just assembly not rebuild, terminology and details drastically affect price. I pulled my engine complete apart, separated rods from crank, split block etc. That costs money for someone to do, but is easy to do on your own. My goal was to rebuild my shortblock for 1700-2k.... we will see how this unfolds. If I can rebuild my shortblock with better rods and pistons for same price as stock block, then this route would be better for the diy enthusiasts. I'm using the manley platinum series turbo tuff pistons and rods, either 632200CE-4(99.50mm) or 632201CE-4(99.55mm) extreme duty pistons, my builder will recommend the best piston size to get .03-.035 ptw. I also purchased 15024-4 H tuff rods for 270.. so for shortblock I am at 270+900+120(assumed cost of rod and crank bearings)+650(pistons)=1940! Pictures coming soon!

Edited by Tehnation
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  • 4 weeks later...
And out of stock until september...... I was thinking about going with kelford or gsc 272's but they require modification according to their websites, I like simple rebuild bolt on. If I can't find the bc stage 2 billet, i will probably go the bc 272 or 280 billet route. Main reason I like the BC's is because they don't require any filing, I know the gsc's do, not sure about kelford, but I think they do. I looked into crower camshafts, brian crowers daddy, but you need to know facts and numbers because they make them all custom .
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  • 1 month later...

Ok so I dropped everything off at the machine shop on Friday.

 

20180707_091606.thumb.jpg.b8345f3c3610fa5a887bee150af54f93.jpg

 

So I ended up getting :

 

BC Stage 3 Cams BC0622 $650

BC Springs BC0600 $215

Manley Turbo Tuff Extreme Duty Pistons 632800CE-4 99.50 -17cc 8.5cr $650

Manley H-Tuff Rods 15024-4 $275

ARP Head Stud Kit 260-4701 $185

Subaru STi 11mm 15010AA360 Oil Pump $130

Subaru 10105AA720 Engine Gasket Kit $235

Cost to rebuild longblock, includes hot tank and 10k rpm balance, with King Bearings $1600 and whatever extra if they need to readjust the heads after assembling longblock.

Total $3940

 

Essentially it was $1k to rebuild the shortblock and $300 per head, if I were to get it separate, so might as well have them do it all for 1600! I ended up with a good deal and they tossed in the install of the oil pump as well.

 

So lets see 650+275+1000= $1925 vs spending $1700-$1900 for a new shortblock, I was able to build a nice new block with much better goodies! By doing a complete tear down I saved a lot on rebuild costs.

 

UPDATE

Final cost to rebuild longblock, includes hot tank and 10k rpm balance, with King Bearings $1815

New Total $4155

Edited by Tehnation
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I have not seen all of this thread but my motor went on me with 201k which I think is pretty shocking given how low others had.. but I don't know or think I'm going to be reusing my crank as much as I want to save money almost every single bearing spun #3 was the worse i don't think I'm going to save any of the rods i'm just going to get a new set but I do have forged pistons this time to go in. Block was in decent shape will be going to 100 MM.

 

Like you I go to NYC weekly so I can't wait to be able to break it in..

 

How did the rebuild turn out? Your right next to me, I'm like 15 minutes from Greenwich!

Edited by Tehnation
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Two weeks! No rush....... I gotta put the entire front suspension back together....... blaaahhhhh, god damn it..... There was sooooo much grease and oil from both the axle boots, the rear main seal and whatever magical location oil was leaking from. I dismantled everything to clean it all down... I bought an electric pressure washer from harbor freight for 80 bucks and some degreaser solution. That tranny was literally black!

 

20180808_134647.thumb.jpg.21702e96b3bc5f3160d80ca9a48066e2.jpg

20180726_130948.thumb.jpg.2cb0077897d692828296e80eaf45e0f6.jpg

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