Rhitter's Build Thread

[Horm2124]

How are you liking the king springs your running? I've been researching lift/overload spring for a while haven't found much. How do they pair with the HDs?

[Rhitter]

How are you liking the king springs your running? I've been researching lift/overload spring for a while haven't found much. How do they pair with the HDs?

 

Love them. I got KSRS-29, which are progressive rate springs. They pair well. Only issues I have are due to the HDs valving (I think the back rebounds a little too quick)

 

They are comfortable and carry weight well.

 

Rallitek has released front and rear standard springs. I am curious how they perform. they are around 18% stiffer all around and I bet they would pair really well with the HDs. They weren't available when I bought my set-up. In the past Rallitek springs weren't progressive, unsure if they are linear. At 440 for the set (front and rear), they are on the pricey side.

 

I think my current set-up is slightly too comfortable, but will revisit once I put on stiffer / larger tires.

Edited September 5, 2016 by Rhitter

[Rhitter]

This was last weekend, but figured I would add it here. Installed the Nameless performance axle back 5 inch exhaust. Love the fit and finish of these. Sounds mean on start-up, and acceration, slightly too quiet at high 5k+ rpms, slightly too loud in 2nd and 3rd around 3k rpms.

 

Getting my old hardware off was a bitch. It was so rusted on that I had to drop the exhaust and dremel off a couple of the bolts. Replaced with thicker / hopefully heavier duty bolts. I did forget to use anti-seize though...

 

http://i.imgur.com/lzHPcdw.jpg

 

http://imgur.com/MhjrA8I.jpg

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMvb5YCbd0Q]Nameless 5inch mufflers - YouTube[/ame]

Edited January 13, 2017 by Rhitter

[xt2005bonbon]

So do you still like the DAMD wheel?

[Rhitter]

So do you still like the DAMD wheel?

 

Yep, still like it a lot. The size is perfect. My knees enjoy the extra room. I never have any issues (missed grip etc) because of the D. I like my STI steering rack more though and would give up the DAMD wheel before I gave up the STI rack.

[BXR6]

Rallitek has released front and rear standard springs. I am curious how they perform. they are around 18% stiffer all around and I bet they would pair really well with the HDs. They weren't available when I bought my set-up. In the past Rallitek springs weren't progressive, unsure if they are linear. At 440 for the set (front and rear), they are on the pricey side.

 

I'm curious about those springs as well. Seems like a good option. On the site, at least for the rears, they say "do not pair with legacy struts"..... Maybe because these lift another 3/8 inch over outback height and the struts will be extended too far?

[Rhitter]

I'm curious about those springs as well. Seems like a good option. On the site, at least for the rears, they say "do not pair with legacy struts"..... Maybe because these lift another 3/8 inch over outback height and the struts will be extended too far?

 

I am not sure where you see that.

 

http://www.rallitek.com/raised-springs-kits/6512-rallitek-raised-springs-set-legacy-2004-2009-1.html

 

These look to pair with Legacy struts and provide a 1 inch lift all around.

[BXR6]

I am not sure where you see that.

 

http://www.rallitek.com/raised-springs-kits/6512-rallitek-raised-springs-set-legacy-2004-2009-1.html

 

These look to pair with Legacy struts and provide a 1 inch lift all around.

 

Wow! This is awesome. I had been looking at the stock height outback springs. I didn't know they had legacy specific springs now. Might have to look into these!

[bigleben]

Ive looked at both LGT and OBXT (2007) ground clearance specs.

LGT : 155mm (6")

OBXT : 221mm (~9")

 

So in theory, putting LGT struts + LGT rallitek raising spring (1" raise) would drop by 2" from OEM OBXT height.

 

Outback's springs still raise the rear 3/8"

[Rhitter]

SRP Pedal installation.

The whole kit.

http://i.imgur.com/7MlJgDV.jpg?1

Finished pictures first.

http://i.imgur.com/EIKD5Pb.jpg

 

Tools

Center punch

Drill

1/16 drill bit - get three. So when two break you still have one to finish the job.

5/32 drill bit

3/16 drill bit

Phillips head screwdriver

masking tape

9mm wrench

 

I started with the accelerator pedal. The accelerator is plastic and screws hold it in place. Just held it up where I (thought) I wanted it. Taped it in place and used the center punch to mark the holes. Things to keep in mind that I didn't.

1. Make sure that the pedal is high enough so you can fully depress it.

2. Make sure it's positioned correctly so you can brake without also hitting the accelerator. It took me three tries to get it right. Mostly because I wasn't thinking about that in advance.

 

Carnage. Going to have to use epoxy or something to fill the holes if I ever take these off.

http://i.imgur.com/ZF5Fk9D.jpg?2

 

The brake and clutch are metal. They have a rubber cover on them that pulls right off. Mine were starting to wear away and I had a couple spots where the metal was showing through.

 

I used masking tape to mark where I wanted the holes. Used the center punch to get them started. Then used the drill bits in ascending order to make room for the bolts.

http://i.imgur.com/NixDmdK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SI9InWE.jpg

 

For the dead pedal, I think the current plastic one is built into the carpet. I just screwed the metal dead pedal to the existing one. I just made sure not to screw into the attachments. In order to remove the carpet, I will need to take the metal dead pedal off. Not, a big deal because I don't see why I will remove it again. I also wasn't 100% sure how to orient it, but am pretty confident with the existing direction.

 

Overall thoughts. I could mostly heel / toe (ball of foot on brake, outside of foot on gas) already, so this is mostly bling for me. I occasionally slipped off brake (terrifying), this should stop that and it was more awkward the faster I was stopping, this should help.

 

Overall, I am happy with it. I wanted the look of metal pedals for awhile and I think these are worth it.

Edited October 20, 2016 by Rhitter

[Silinc3r]

that pedal set is gorgeous!!!

[SilentCool]

I'm liking where this is heading, nice work! how much did your rebuild cost you?

[Rhitter]

I'm liking where this is heading, nice work! how much did your rebuild cost you?

 

Rebuild was $6k, added on a few extra parts (turbo, KillerB oil pan/pickup/baffle), new clutch, probably moer) got out at $8k

[SilentCool]

Rebuild was $6k, added on a few extra parts (turbo, KillerB oil pan/pickup/baffle), new clutch, probably moer) got out at $8k

Thanks, appreciate the response. Looking for one of these but blown turbos and hg failures are a major concern. None of those jobs are cheap.

 

Basically checking out builds and rebuilds so I know what to expect and what costs would look like for me.

 

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

[rebourne]

Thanks, appreciate the response. Looking for one of these but blown turbos and hg failures are a major concern. None of those jobs are cheap.

 

Basically checking out builds and rebuilds so I know what to expect and what costs would look like for me.

 

Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk

 

another data point: My rebuild was about the same. forged pistons, mostly OEM parts with some being STI, Killer Bee oil pickup, and later the VF52, TMIC and ELH.

 

@ Ritter, do you know if Outfront did the machining before Mike did the assembly?

 

@ Silentcool: If I had to do it again, I'd look for a blown motor car, buy it cheap and have it rebuilt with forged pistons. Unfortunately that's exactly what I did, except for I didn't know the motor was blown and I didn't buy it for cheap.

[SilentCool]

another data point: My rebuild was about the same. forged pistons, mostly OEM parts with some being STI, Killer Bee oil pickup, and later the VF52, TMIC and ELH.

 

 

@ Silentcool: If I had to do it again, I'd look for a blown motor car, buy it cheap and have it rebuilt with forged pistons. Unfortunately that's exactly what I did, except for I didn't know the motor was blown and I didn't buy it for cheap.

 

I will see how things go because it doesn't matter what I do I keep coming right back here to the Legacy. It just makes more sense for me to get this car. An AWD wagon with a 5MT and turbo.

 

Thank you so much for your response!

[Rhitter]

@ Rebourne, yep Outfront did the machining, Mike everything else.

[Rhitter]

Couple things done, that I figured I would add here. Nothing new if you have been reading WDYDTYOT thread.

1. Waterpump replaced with OEM cast unit (supposedly has better flow and less cavitation). Left timing belt and pulleys alone. Used new OEM timing belt tensioner.

2. When I did this installed the Company 23 EJ timing belt guide. Mostly because I was ordering the Company 23 Cam lock tools and I saw it.

3. Cut the OEM underguard so that I get fender water / dust protection again.

4. Sanded / cleared my headlights. Will see if the UV coating in this kit lasts.

5. Added a Vibrant bottle style resonator in-line with my OEM resonator to see if it kills the drone I was getting with the 5 inch Nameless Axleback (it does!)

 

1. I didn't take any pictures, so I will just link to Magnus's post. The stamped / broken pump is the Gates pump. So, I guess now their pulleys are bad and I didn't have good luck with their pump, all OEM for timing equipment now it seems. The stamped housing for the OEM one appears to be the same (looking at covertrussian's picture)

Helped Rhitters with his water pump today since it was weeping from the weeping hole. Interesting to see the difference between the stamped impeller of the one we pulled out of his car and the cast impeller of the new OEM one we put in. By the looks of the casting for the housing the OEM one is slightly different and appears to be better. Has a few more supports for strength cast into it. Then looking at the impeller to volute clearance the OEM cast one looks better and more encouraging to flow compared to the stamped which looks like it wouldn't really encourage as much flow.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/8d4c9a6117f7259a3c7458985db0fbaf.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/d9f41aa0f0a6ea817510c4d878beebf3.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/9efb795ae034d36419827e75f490f695.jpg

 

3 / 4

 

Did two things tonight,

1. Cut my OEM undertray so that it fits with my Primitive skidplate. My original plan was to rivet the plastic piece on. However, after wrestling with it to get it in place, I am not sure I will be doing that. Much easier to put the plastic piece on then bolt the Primitive plate in place.

http://i.imgur.com/hujyUDc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Bmepafy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fBqrbXr.jpg

 

2. Finally got tired of yellow headlights. Tried a kit that has a UV coat that you "paint" on with a paper tower, it's thick hopefully will last.

http://i.imgur.com/cP53NYT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Bi44FjR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6IYyzol.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-HRK-BX-SYLVANIA-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00429NKWK/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484340302&sr=1-5&keywords=headlight+restoration+kit

 

5.

http://i.imgur.com/a7dGnJN.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1792-Bottle-Style-Resonator/dp/B000E3VHVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484340264&sr=8-1&keywords=vibrant+bottle+style

Edited January 14, 2017 by Rhitter

[cBax]

Nice. My original water pump was stamped as well. I put in a cast version based on suggestions here.

[FJuan]

I'll have to check my Gates water pump tonight to see if it's stamped like that. Makes me want to scratch my head.

[Rhitter]

Stealing from

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4766804

OEM stamped has more vanes than the gates

OEM

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Water%20Pump/CIMG0738.jpg

Gates

http://i.imgur.com/wlkUddO.jpg

[rebourne]

I dig that the forum family member are helping out. Takes me back to the old days of the internet mailing list days.

[Rhitter]

http://i.imgur.com/CjuWWKi.jpg?2

 

- luckily nothing damaged in shipping / everything is here. But this is how it looked when it showed up

 

Tomei ELH header with up-pipe.

 

I have the following Grimmspeed gaskets - header to block, 3 bolt header to up-pipe, and turbo gasket. Will re-use my GS turbo to downpipe.

 

Debating leave the wrap on, removing it, or wrapping it with HVAC tape. It's ceramic coated so I will probably pull off the wrap. Don't really like the idea of wrap where an oil leak turns it into a wick.

 

Looking forward to the sound of ELH. Which is honestly mostly why I am doing this. I am getting re-tuned for it, but who knows if it will make an actual difference.

Edited January 23, 2017 by Rhitter

[xt2005bonbon]

You really like the sound of ELH? I still prefer the standard unequal length subie sound even though it is not really an efficient design. Maybe when I get older, I'll begin to like it who knows

[Rhitter]

Yep, getting my Nameless 5 inch mufflers made me realize I really wasn't a fan of the pulsing noise from the stock UEL. I liked a lot of the other noises, but the pulse wasn't so great.

 

Listened to a lot of you tube videos of subies with ELH which made me realize I just like it more.