FocuS Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 All - Its been a while since I've posted but I need some LGT.com enthusiast advise! Before Thanksgiving, my family and I were involved in a rear-ended accident. We are all fine with the exception of a little whiplash. CHP was on-scene within minutes and has video of the accident itself. The fault will be squarely on the 1998 Chevy Silverado who hit us from behind but the police report is still pending which is slowing down the insurance quite a bit. Anyways, the initial estimate from the shop is $5800 in damage. This is in excess of the KBB value of the car and therefore the insurance will probably push for a total loss finding. I do not want this since I have no car loan currently and the car still runs/drives perfectly! I think I have a few options: 1 - Convince the insurance that fair market value is ~$8000 and therefore the damages are below the 80% threshold for totaling it out. They then approve the fixes and we get to work. 2 - They total is out, I take the check (~$5800) and get another loan for a new vehicle (NOT what I want to do...) 3 - They total it out, I buy the car back form insurance, and then take the totaled payout to do the repairs myself on a now "branded" salvaged title... Any suggestions much appreciated... I really don't want to lose all the aftermarket parts on this car nor do I want a car payment...plus, I'm moving to Hawaii early next year and don't want any extra headache. Thanks, FocuS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 If it were me... 1) Let insurance total out the car, take the check, then buy it back. 2) If it's fixable, fix it. But, as you know, after an impact like that... who knows what was tweaked unibody and subframe wise... OR: 3)Part it out, cut your losses, and use that cash to get a new something. Maybe an opportunity to step into another turbo sedan/wagon MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 Quick update: Car WAS totaled so I bought it back from insurance for the $700 salvage price. Took it to a different repair shop who will be fixing it for 1/2 the original quoted repair price ($3000)... This leaves me around $3000 + damages still pending for additional work on it. Definitely getting the suspension rebuilt ASAP, a lot of new bushings, and maybe even the head gasket done since it will go soon... Does anyone happen to know the Six Star HG PN for the '05 Leg GT EJ25 motor? Can't seem to find it via Google... Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snm95ls Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 That seems really cheap. Any pics of the damage by chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Stay with the OEM HG's and ARP head studs. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 The only time I'd buy a totalled car back from insurance is if the damage was only cosmetic and I'm ok with it looking like crap - or the damage can be fixed by simply swapping in junkyard parts. If the body is tweaked then I'd walk away. If the repair is just replacing and painting parts with NO straightening or jig work needed, I'd buy it back. What does the $5800 cover? Example: Bodyshop quote for fixing rust on the bottom edge of the driver's door was $950, including sourcing a replacement door, installing it and painting it. I instead found a driver's door in a junkyard 3 hours from here. Drove over there, paid $250 for it and put it on myself. Paint matches. After paintless dent repair on a ding on the replacement door and the cost of gasoline it was still in at under $400. Looks like it never happened. Example 2: Developed rust on the rear dogleg (leading edge of rear wheel arch). The only fix was to cut out the dogleg and weld a new one in place. $1k. That was all them - I'd not attempt that kind of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 No straightening or jig work required. The car still ran and drove fine after the accident since I had to drive it home after... The repair is all materials, labor and paint for the drivers rear quarter panel, liftgate, bumper, and new tinted glass. They did a great job on a nearly identical repair in Feb 2015 so I trust them to do a good job again...but I better get a detailed car back the first time this time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 I'd have them do the quarter panel paint, and see if you can find a liftgate and bumper from a junkyard that is already the correct color... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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