Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

CovertRussian's 2012 Outback 2.5i 6MT Build


Recommended Posts

Decided it's time to upgrade to a bigger car from the 04 FXT, wanted something that can take 87 gas too.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Pics/Purchase/20151027_084639.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Pics/Purchase/20151027_084709.jpg

 

Bland and plasticy money shot

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Pics/Purchase/20151028_130243.jpg~original

 

Car overall is in excellent condition, well kept even for 91k miles. Minimal rust on random suspension parts and as expected exhaust. Local VA car though, so at least it's not as bad as it could be if it was from MD and higher.

 

Some issues:

Engine noise between 2500-3500 rpm along with some detonation. I knew about noise from test drive (used it as bargaining chip) but detonation sound started happening on the way home. Next post will detail my testing so far.

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

After I got the car home hooked up the Tactrix cable and computer to it, Learning view said sorry ECU is not supported but was able to show me the IAM, which was at 0.670 which is bad.

 

RomRaider didn't have definitions for my version of the tune, but I saw that there was a definition file for a newer version (which covers a recall for Thermostat CEL's for northern states, but of course not VA). Called the dealer about getting that tune flashed, they refused so did it myself and now I have wonder logging and learning views! :)

 

Driving the car in the city kept the IAM at .500, figured it was bad gas, so can of Royal Purple Octane booster went in. I usually don't trust Octane Boosters, but MotoIQ had very good results with using it in the BRZ. With the can in and mixed in still heard audible knock (or vibrations), IAM was now at 0.750, yay!

 

Next had to go back go on 130 mile trip, added 4 gallons of Shell 93 gas, when I got back IAM was now at 0.900's and ECU was adding timing back in highway cell's. I purposefully kept the car in 6th gear going 70mph (~2,600rpm), which felt a little too out of gear going over the mountain. With heavy rain and 46-50*F's got 27.13mpg real world mpg (gauge said 28.2mpg). The day before I took the Legacy on to the same city, no rain and 46-57*F temps got 27.07mpg :lol:. So even in pour weather conditions and knocking Outback is already above EPA which is saying 27mpg highway :).

 

Filled another 4.5g of Shell 93 (that's about 8 gallons of Shell 93, 1 quart of octane booster, 10 gallons of dealer crap), now gonna try to drive out as much of the crap gas as possible and use 93 for while, having 18.5 gallons is a blessing and a curse :spin:. The stock timing map is VERY aggressive for 10.1:1 engine with 87 gas, unless it's a dedicated 93 map. Once I chase down the vibrations and knocking, Shell 87 gas will go in and we'll see if she knocks. A lot of people on Subaru forums are talking about these cars not liking 87 though :(.

 

Oh almost forgot, spark plugs look pretty new still, there are some speckles on the ground electrode but I didn't see any detonation speckles (blackish specks on porcelain).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Pics/Purchase/20151027_090119.jpg~original

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice covert!!! Welcome to the 5th Gen platform. 2012 was a great year for these cars. Do you have any plans for lowering it down to Legacy height or lower?

GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold

GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold

GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold

 

Stapp's Law: “The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle.”

 

"Simple incompetence is a far more sinister force in the world than evil intent."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice covert!!! Welcome to the 5th Gen platform. 2012 was a great year for these cars. Do you have any plans for lowering it down to Legacy height or lower?

 

Thanks for the warm welcome!

 

Overall I love this car, even though it's NA, I haven't owned an NA car in 3+ years. I live in the mountains, love to go offroad camping and driving in deep snow, so the additional ground clearance over the FXT was actually something I was looking forward to.

 

Pros

  • HUGE, so much room for so many activities!
  • Very smooth ride over bumps, smoother then the 2013 that we test drove
  • Tunable with RomRaider! I was under the impression that 2010+ LGT's weren't even defined, imagine my surprise when NA 2012 car had definitions! :wub:
  • Torque for what it is! I can be in 5th at 35-40mph without engine lugging, while legacy definitely is not happy below 40mph in 5th. This makes perfect sense when you remember compression ratios, Outback's compression ratios 10.0:1 while my 05 LGT is 8.2:1 with similar weights, which means there is more torque off boost then on the Legacy.
  • Fuel economy is really good even at 27mpgh highway for it's size and AWD, but you know me I'll gonna tune for 30+ :lol:
  • Handles great for a such a big car, it handles like a legacy that's is jacked up (I really don't know why people complained about brakes and handling, I think it's great even with so many miles)
  • Butter smooth clutch
  • Framed doors (about time!)
  • Auto Up front window, once again about time!
  • Sound system that doesn't suck, plus USB support is nice
  • Ton of engine bay room and much easier to change spark plugs
  • Oil Capacity, needs only 4.4qt unlike the 2013's+ which use 5.5qt. Have to buy only one 5QT jug at Walmart :)

 

Cons

  • Electronic parking brake, I do miss a real hand brake, plus the whole if battery is dead deal.
  • Pretty hard to backup into places due to small rear window, hate to say it but I wish i had a backup camera (it only came in sunroof models)
  • No dual climate control in 6MT, LGT spoiled us with this one, since this will be our new long trip car this option is very missed, maybe I'll retrofit :lol:
  • Not a fan of the stretched headlights, reminds me of a Toyota.

 

As you can see my cons are just nit pickings :lol:. We'll see how much my wife likes driving her new car, I've been hogging it up while trying to diagnose the random noises.

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More updates on chasing down the pinging and rattles. I think pinging has been mostly resolved thanks to almost 9 gallons of 93 gas and octane booster.

 

Here is what the learning view looked like after 15 miles with Octane booster. Before octane booster IAM wouldn't go above .500.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Tuning/Octane/2015-1027_15m_RP-OctaneBooster.png~original

 

Took this learning view after 170m, 130 highway, 40 city (not slow driving either). IAM is almost fully recovered, I doubt it will get any better until I get a full tank of 93.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Tuning/Octane/2015-1029_170m_Shell93-8.5g_RPOctane.png~original

 

 

With the audible pinging gone, I could finally pay attention to the other knocking noise, which happens around 2,000 rpm. The knocking is much quieter when the engine is cold, which makes me think it's oil related (dealer used the wrong oil). I picked up some Valvoline 5w30 fully synthetic oil, will try changing it tomorrow.

 

After I got home I did find this video, the sound is not as loud but similar tone, which would mean the tension is on it's way out and I should get cracking on the timing belt replacement:

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While I'm thinking about what needs to be done gathered a mod plans list:

  • Retuning to run better on 87 gas without knocking, retuning for fuel economy too.
  • New Timing belt and crank & cam seals.
  • Trans and Diff oil change
  • Side gaping spark plugs to see if any power/mpg is gained
  • Aluminum Skid plate, since there is nothing there currently
  • Lower Control Arm rear bushings, since we all know they suck, probably will use Whiteline Caster bushings.
  • Aluminum Crank pulley before oem one falls apart, but doesn't look like anyone makes one yet though
  • Short shifter if available, I do like the Kartboy in the Legacy.
  • Maybe a better designed high flow header without 20 cats. Would need to be able to disable rear O2 in the tune for this to work right though.
  • Then just drive it and not worry about modding it :lol:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you pick this up cheap? Seems to have a decent set of issues for a 2012? Or are you just that OCD? :lol:

 

The car was $1k less then what Nada clean retail value is, but knowing how Subaru's are they are usually more then even Nada values. I heard the engine noise while test driving it and used that as a bargaining chip to throw off another $700. That's before I knew that, like all major dealers, they charge a $400 processing fee :mad:, this is my first car from a real dealer and not a small time shop, so now I know to barter more.

 

I don't consider any ticking engine noise normal, at any amount of miles, maybe I'm OCD :lol:. Reading a bunch of threads it seems to be very common for these cars to knock with 87 gas and it's not uncommon for dealers to tell people to just run 93 gas even while under warranty :spin:. Looks like 2013's at least got a remap recall. That coupled with looking at the timing maps that she's running (I'll post those soon), I think this car just doesn't like cheap 87 gas stock.

 

Everything else is me being OCD :lol:, but really outside of the ticking the car is in immaculate shape for 90k miles, it looks brand new inside and out.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lower Control Arm rear bushings, since we all know they suck, probably will use Whiteline Caster bushings

 

 

The design of these is different from previous Subaru's, more like a hockey puck with a hole in it. Whiteline doesn't make anything for us. AVO does for sure and it's a quality piece with different caster options, 0, +.5, +1, but you have to know which one you want.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AVO-Turboworld-Bushings-S1B10M1GV002T-Fits-SUBARU-2010-2012-LEGACY-2010-20-/201456759102?hash=item2ee7c2313e:g:JuoAAOSwAYtWMAeN&vxp=mtr

 

 

 

Aluminum Crank pulley before oem one falls apart, but doesn't look like anyone makes one yet though

 

Mike at Infamous makes one. I think that is pretty much what's available for the 2.5i, but I might be wrong. I know the 3.6R guys have some options available.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-light-weight-crank-pulleys-229778.html

 

 

Short shifter if available, I do like the Kartboy in the Legacy

 

5th Gen 6MT transmission is a variant of the JDM/EDM 5MT cable actuated transmission that Subaru has used in other markets on the diesels for years, only with a 6th gear added. It does not have the traditional linkage found in all other USDM Subaru manual trannys. Good news here is, recently with the introduction of the 2015 WRX, which uses the same transmission as us, a whole slew of parts have recently hit the market from the likes of Perrin, Boomba and Kartboy. In addition to those which firm up and shorten the shifter throw, Subaru does make an Legacy Short Shifter and a 2015 WRX Short shifter, but the improvement is minimal to none. The real improvements in shifter feel and throw have come from the aftermarket companies. Check out these threads.

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-2015-wrx-brass-shifter-bushing-224656.html?p=4806951#post4806951

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-2015-wrx-shift-stop-230892.html?p=4935651

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-2015-wrx-short-shift-adapter-240448.html

 

^^^ Kartboy and Boomba both make a version of these.

 

And you'll definitely want to do this as well to get rid of the floating clutch engagement point.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clutch-damper-valve-delete-223235.html

Edited by GTEASER

GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold

GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold

GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold

 

Stapp's Law: “The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle.”

 

"Simple incompetence is a far more sinister force in the world than evil intent."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

In 2013 Subaru switched the 5th Gen platform 2.5i stock motor from the EJ25 motor (2010-2012) to the new FB25 motor (2013-2014). In 2013 they had a lot of oil consumption issues with the FB25 as a result of improperly installed oil control rings. I think there was also some issue with the supplier not coating the rings with the spec'd coating. While the FB gets a little better gas mileage, be happy you have the old proven workhorse EJ.

Edited by GTEASER

GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold

GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold

GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold

 

Stapp's Law: “The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle.”

 

"Simple incompetence is a far more sinister force in the world than evil intent."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a bunch for the links, definitely helpful!

 

I'm surprised it took Subaru this long to switch to cable driven shifters and clutch dampers. My Nissan's had it those by 2003 :lol:

 

On my G20 I bypassed the clutch damper with a steel braided hose, it hit two birds with one stone, got rid of the rubber line and got rid of the damper :). I wonder if the same can be done here without using that adapter.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/CIMG8416.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/CIMG8419.jpg~original

 

I did find it a little more difficult to rev match the car and find the proper engagement point compared to the LGT. Reading your post here, talking about slower disengagement riding the clutch makes me wanna fix this sooner then later....

 

 

As for the short shifter and bushings, well familiar with that headache too. Running these right now instead of stockers on my 6 speed retrofit:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/Drivetrain/RS6%20Swap/Shifter%20Bushings/RedLion_Bushing_003.jpg~original

 

With shifter I could just drill a hole to the left of the mount and it did the trick:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/Drivetrain/RS6%20Swap/Short%20Shifter/CIMG0633.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/Drivetrain/RS6%20Swap/Short%20Shifter/CIMG0638.jpg~original

 

Not sure I'm gonna bother doing the same on the Outback, it's a nice car so less DYI mods probably :lol:

 

In 2013 Subaru switched the 5th Gen platform 2.5i stock motor from the EJ25 motor (2010-2012) to the new FB25 motor (2013-2014). In 2013 they had a lot of oil consumption issues with the FB25 as a result of improperly installed oil control rings. I think there was also some issue with the supplier not coating the rings with the spec'd coating. While the FB gets a little better gas mileage, be happy you have the old proven workhorse EJ.

 

That's actually why I also stopped looking at 2013's, sure the timing belt sucks but they are known to be more reliable. Plus it's much easier to replace spark plugs and do a compression test on the SOHC motor :lol:

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I found the root cause of the noise, it involved digging in the timing belt. First thing I saw was oil on the timing chain tensioner this is not good.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/Tensioner_bad_001.jpg~original

 

Started the car (after installing the crank pulley) and had the wife rev up the motor to 2k rpm until I could hear the knocking. Stuck a screw driver in the tensioner and pushed it down, it made a BUNCH more noise. I hope this is it, new belt kit should be here this week, I still need a water pump though.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/Tensioner_bad_002.jpg~original

 

Looks like LCA bushings are not gonna last too long, not showing tire wear yet, but probably soon.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Suspension/LCA%20-%20Front/LCA%20Rear%20Bushing%2090k.jpg~original

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replaced the engine oil and filter on Friday with Valvoline Synthetic 5w30 on Friday. All weekend had the noise, but noticed something yesterday as I was driving to lunch with a car full of people, the 2k rpm knock was pretty quiet, but might be because I had to have it in higher gear with 4 big guys.

 

Replaced the timing belt and idlers last night, decided to skip the water pump for now and just wing it (didn't want to drive the car too much while waiting for the water pump to arrive at first, but then saw people saying that newer water pumps tend to last longer). Idlers were on their way out, some were already making noise. I'll post up pictures of the process a bit later.

 

I still have a knocking noise at 2-2.5k rpm though, but it's much fainter, blends in with exhaust noise more now. I'm told the 2.5i's are not that quiet of motors in general :lol:. If noise continues I'll try running Shell Rotella T6, but with cold season it might be a bit too thick.

 

 

IAM is now at 1.000 but I've been driving fairly nicely, I'm gonna dog on it some more, maybe even get a few virtual dynos done, and see if IAM drops. I think the knocking noise from either the bearings (from wrong oil used by the dealer) or the idlers was causing the the knock sensor to retard timing.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First real work on the car, replacing the timing belt with Gates TCK304 Kit.

 

I was lazy and didn't remove more then I had to, was able to replace the belt without pulling the radiator or the fans, these cars have more then enough room in the bay.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7880.jpg~original

 

Before pulling the serpentine belt checked the stretch of it, FSM says if the belt is between the two outer marks it's still fine. I plan on replacing it with new idlers soon, even though it's within spec.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7881.jpg~original

 

15mm socket rotate the wrench clockwise to loosen it.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7883.jpg~original

 

Since I have a 6MT, I was able to loosen the crank bolt by keeping the trans in 5th gear (oddly enough 6th didn't work well). Now there are some risks with this, I saw a random comment saying that spinning the crank counterclock wise might make it jump a tooth since tensioner only tensions for clockwise movement, I'm not sure I buy since our tensioner just pushes down and personally haven't had an issue on my two other Subaru's, but your warned.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7892.jpg~original

 

After crank pulley is removed, remove the V bracket and then fun begins of chasing down the plastic cover bolts.

 

Finally down to the belt, you can see that my belt definitely showing some wear by 90k miles.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7895.jpg~original

 

Next up is pulling the MT belt guide and reinstalling the crank pulley and rotating the crank clockwise until crank marks line up.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7897.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7900.jpg~original

 

Make sure both cam sprockets align with the cam marks on the motor, right side is easy, just look for the notch.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7904.jpg~original

 

Left side is little tricker, you align it with the slit between the valve cover and the head as shown here:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7909.jpg~original

 

Now is a good time to check the seals for leaks. My crank seal was perfect, I couldn't really see cam seals, but didn't see any oil under the cams so I think all is well. I was gonna replace all of the seals but due to time constraints figured I'll just do them when the water pump needs replacing.

 

 

Undid the geared pulley at the other bottom pulley, and slowly removed the belt. The right cam rotated to the left, knowing that it's an interference engine this scared me. I'm told that engine being at timing marks all pistons are halfway in the block so it should be safe to rotate the cams.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7913.jpg~original

 

Gates kit has nicer belt and idlers then stock...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7917.jpg~original

 

The biggest difference between the idlers is the geared one, the bearings in the Gates kit are much wider then the stock ones.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7923.jpg~original

 

Gates now suggests you loctite to use on the tensioner pulley, they give you a small tube too.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7920.jpg~original

 

FSM suggests installing the upper two idlers/tensioner first. Torque them to 28.8 ft-lbs, all of the idlers follow these torque specs.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7921.jpg~original

 

I ran the belt through the crank and the two installed idlers. Since the right camp kept on resetting itself to the left, had to keep the breaker bar on it during the install. Align the belt's white marks to the cam sprocket and use the body marks as a relative suggestion since the new belt refused to stretch at all.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7922.jpg~original

 

The geared idler gave me the most headache, it's an absolute pita trying to push the belt enough to get the idler bolt in the thread. I found that rotating the right cam a little clock wise helped loosen the tension enough to let me get it in. As you can see I used a screw driver as a guide too.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7925.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7927.jpg~original

 

Finally install the last idler, use a screw driver or a 1/4" socket extension to get it aligned to the threads too.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7928.jpg~original

 

Torque all of the idlers to 28.8 ft-lbs and make sure timing marks align, then pull the grenade pin of the tensioner and your ready to reinstall the belt guide

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7929.jpg~original

 

Gates makes a little presized belt guide spacer to speed up the installation. FSM calls for 0.5-1.0mm clearance between the belt guide and the belt. I measured the gates spacer to be 1.2mm, while it is out of spec for 2012's, I don't think it's that big of a deal especially for a low powered NA car.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/SAM_7930.jpg~original

 

After that your ready to assemble everything else together. V bracket bolts call for 26.6 ft-lbs.

 

Crank Pulley

Pay attention to cranking the torque bolt, it's a little tricky. FSM calls for 34.7 ft-lbs at first, then turning the bolt another 55-65*, while 2012 FSM doesn't call for a final torque, 2005 one calls for about 130 ft-lbs. It is VERY important that you rotate the bolt 55-65* since it's a stretch to fit bolt. If you can't rotate the bolt to those specs, it's too stretched and is hitting the crank. If you can't turn it 55-65* after initial torque, You must replace the bolt, part #12369AA011, Otherwise the crank pulley might be loose and will destroy your crank.

 

Assemble everything else, install the serpentine belt and you should be good to go.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! Thorough!

GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold

GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold

GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold

 

Stapp's Law: “The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle.”

 

"Simple incompetence is a far more sinister force in the world than evil intent."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to leave out a bunch of pictures because of the 20 image limit. Usually I'll split them into two posts, but Didn't want to do one post with 20 images one with ~5.

 

 

Anyway, did a virtual dyno after driving around for a day and all is well. Look at that NA power :lol:, still the car is pretty peppy for what it is!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/Timing%20Belt/Dyno%20-%20Post%20Timing%20Belt%20Install.png~original

 

This is SAE adjusted for Temp and Barometric pressure, but not for humidity (Virtual dyno doesn't support it, I've asked the developer to add it as a feature, but he's been MIA lately :(). AFR's are actually not too bad for an NA car (assuming we can fully trust stock WBO2).

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to go on a work trip, used this as an opportunity to get some 87 gas highway MPG and knock testing.

 

Before going, wanted to see how the engine has been doing after 330 mostly city miles on 8 gallons of Shell 93, 10 gallons of unknown gas, and one can of Royal Purple Octane Booster. This is the cleanest learning view this car has seen so far...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Tuning/Octane/Shell93-8gal_OctBoost_331m%20City.png~original

 

Filled up 16 gallons of Shell 87 gas, didn't reset the ecu and drove ~130miles in ~60f weather. Grabbed a LV screenshot when I got there, ecu was not happy with 87 gas, IAM is way down and still pulling timing.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Tuning/Octane/Shell87_65F_133Miles%20Hwy.png~original

 

Drove another 130m driving back home, this time the weather was around 45-50F. Looks like the colder weather helped the IAM jump up a bit higher.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Tuning/Octane/Shell87_48F_263mHwy.png~original

 

Simply put this car doesn't like 87 gas. Now that I know that it wasn't dealer crap gas now I can start modifying the tune.

 

As for gas mileage, car got 27.41mpg roundtrip. This is pretty good considering that I was going 75mph most of the time, pinging, and had about 700lbs of extra weight (w/driver) over curb weight.

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am amazed at how poorly the car runs with 87. Pulling the IAM down to .55-.8? Can't believe Subaru recommends anything but 91/93

 

100% agreed, I thought our Turbo cars were bad enough with detonation from leanness, but these things are way worse on detonation.

 

I'm gonna about 70-90miles in the city as is, fill up quarter tank and see what my city gas mileage is like. After that will start dumbing down the timing map. Trick here is figuring out which map is used at what point, there are 3 timing maps.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really surprised at how that N/A motor's stock tune is just not having it with mid grade gas. It really makes me question the health and longevity of vehicles with the PZEV tune flashed...

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I wouldn't call 87 mid grade, not at my elevation at least. Manual calls for 87 gas, so one would think it would work fine with that, but this is Subaru tuners, that bring us lean turbo tunes, that we are talking about.

 

I think PZEV might actually be better, PZEV motors are much richer, at least on cold starts, because they try to warm up the 50 cat's as fast as possible. Though leanness is not the issue here, too much timing is.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put another 80 miles in the city and Learning view is still at .8xx with minor additions. Looks like Shell 87 gas is already treating it better then the dealer gas. I think the car should be fine with 89 gas, so will try that next time I empty the tank out.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figured I should get the V-Belt and pulleys replaced while I'm at it. It felt like the pulleys had some lateral movement in them too. The belt looked alright still, but it's $12 so might as well replace it too.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_123353.jpg~original

 

By the left idler you can find the stretch marks of the belt. It's still in spec but was getting close to the top mark (after which you should replace).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_123350.jpg~original

 

Using a long 15mm socket and bar rotate it clockwise and it should release the belt tension.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_123437.jpg~original

 

New Gates belt and idlers. Total was about $36 from RockAuto.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_123545.jpg~original

 

Both idlers removed

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_124103.jpg~original

 

What's odd is only the right one had the plastic washer, wonder if it's like this from factory or previous owner lost it.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_124122.jpg~original

 

Sorry for the blurry pic, cell phone picks are hit or a miss. I miss my old dedicated camera... Anyway, little bummed that Gates stopped using NTK bearings.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_123819.jpg~original

 

V-Belt Diagram from the FSM

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/Diagram%20-%20V-Belt.png~original

 

New Belt installed, took more time straightening it out and keeping it from sliding off the pulleys.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_125644.jpg~original

 

New belt puts the notch right around the middle mark, I'm surprised it's not further down.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Engine/V-Belt/20151119_130014.jpg~original

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use