Jwellens Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 So I bought an invidia q300 CBE and an invidia uppipe for my 06 LGT limited. Since winter is coming up and money is a little tight I'm holding off on a down pipe for now but my question is, if I already have a K&N intake, with the new CBE and uppipe would I need to get a Cobb accessport? I'm trying to have a little power boost but this is my daily driver so I definetly need reliability. If I got with the uppipe and no tune, will I over boost and blow my turbo? Also, if I do get a Cobb accessport what map would I run? Stage 1? All input is appreciated and needed, thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 You want a tune for the intake, from reading around it tends to lean the engine out. I take it you have a car with a catted up pipe now? 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 1) No tune needed for CBE 2) Up pipe definitely should be changed for reliability to remove pre-turbo cat. Aftermarket up pipe will throw a check engine light as it also eliminates the stock egt sensor. This can be solved by adding a little resistor (I forget what size) to the plug where the egt sensor used to plug into. An Accessport will also turn the cel off, or when you get a pro tune tuner will turn it off. Make sure you also remove your banjo bolt screen. These cause a lot of turbo failures. 3) K&N intake is poor, actually has a smaller maf tube than stock intake. To be safe go back to stock intake. In the Subaru world, the definition of: Stage 1 = tuned with stock down pipe Stage 2 = tuned with aftermarket down pipe You will see some gains with stage 1. Stage 2 is the sweet spot tho, best bang for your buck power wise and still reliable. An Accessport is a wonderful tool and I highly recommend it. That said, I would have the car pro tuned when you get one. The generic maps that it comes with are not the best. If money is tight you can get an E-tune for under $200. The top two things imo to keeping these cars reliable is a quality tune and a quality engine oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 So would I just be better off buying a Cobb intake with the accessport? And from what I've read i need to get a 2.2ohm resistor I believe to stop the CEL from the uppipe. And as far as getting a pro tune, how much do they normally cost and where can I go to find them. Sorry for the noobie questions, I'm new to modifying cars as this was my first car that is manual and modifiable. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 If you get a Cobb Accessport and keep your stock down pipe, run the stage 1 map. If you go with the up pipe and no tune you should be fine. Personally I don't think the Cobb intake for our car is the best option. I've heard many people say the air box hits the hood prop hinge. Just remember most all intakes require a pro tune to run safely. The K&N intake for our car is an exception cause the decrease in tube size cancels out the decrease is restriction. This is not ideal. Install the parts you have now with the 2.2 kohm resistor, stock intake if you still have it, and remove your banjo bolt screen. Also just check the turbo for shaft play when you remove the down pipe. Then, if all maintenance is up to date, turbo has no shaft play, car is good to go, your clear to save up for an Accessport, down pipe, pro tune. Search the classifieds for quality used parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 if this is your first modifiable car, YOU NEED TO REaD AND RESEARCH WAY MORE. devise a mod path, and if you don't have money to play, stay stock.(thats not an insult, just sound advice) these cars will eat your wallet. An intake is generally useless until tuned for and can cause unsafe conditions. Cat-back doesnt matter, getting rid of the catted uppipe is crucial. I would advise a simple stage 2 package. Stock intake, DP of your choice, catless up pipe, and a E-tune from BrenTuning, or Cryotune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 And most important of all is check your oil level weekly, these cars use it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 So, so far I've ordered an invidia q300 CBE (with 2.5'' adapter for the DP), an invidia uppipe, and the car already came with a K&N intake. So as far as a protune goes, its like $200 to get one made right? Do I get them online and I just answer some questions to tell them what modifications I have on the car? From what I've read, I can go with the intake and uppipe and get a stage 1 tune from cobb. But do they do protunes as well that I can load in through the accessport? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Dyno tune = $500 Hand them the keys, they put it on dyno, and couple hours later, Yahtzee. Street tube = $350 maybe? Same as dyno tune but done by actually driving the car on the street. E-tune = $175 Your doing the pulls by yourself and sending the data logs via email to the tuner, he emails you a map revision, repeat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 I will be selling a stock intake with K&N panel filter for cheap if you choose to go the route. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it. My only problem is I don't want to dyno a car with 100,000 miles on it. But maybe I'll just get a street tune for it, and sadly I don't have the stock air filter and I enjoy hearing the turbo spool with a small bov from the K&N so I won't be going back to stock. But once again, thanks for all the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 I bought my car with 100,000 miles bone stock. Went to stage 2 (up, down, cat-back, Accessport) and ran that for 25,000miles. This summer I went to stage 3 (turbo, intercooler, fueling) and I have about 4,000 miles so far. I e-tuned both my setups because of how affordable it is compared to dyno tuning. It all depends on the maintenance history and the quality of the tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 if this is your first modifiable car, YOU NEED TO REaD AND RESEARCH WAY MORE. devise a mod path, and if you don't have money to play, stay stock.(thats not an insult, just sound advice) these cars will eat your wallet. An intake is generally useless until tuned for and can cause unsafe conditions. Cat-back doesnt matter, getting rid of the catted uppipe is crucial. I would advise a simple stage 2 package. Stock intake, DP of your choice, catless up pipe, and a E-tune from BrenTuning, or Cryotune I recommend just getting a downpipe and an accessport and getting an etune from Brentuning as well. I have 56k miles trouble free so far! 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwellens Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 I guess this is somewhat of a stupid question but, how did. You data log your pulls? And do you know how much it would cost to get a economical tune, and a performance tune from brentuning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 The Accessport has a data log feature. Literally you click a button, do the pull, click the button again. Done. There really is no reason to get two tunes at our power levels, just learn to keep your foot out of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 Yeah I used the boost gauge as my mpg scale. I tried my best to stay in vac but I always get cut off by the person who does 27 mph in a 35 mph zone. Sent from my iFail using Tapatalk App 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 I guess this is somewhat of a stupid question but, how did. You data log your pulls? And do you know how much it would cost to get a economical tune, and a performance tune from brentuning? That's what intelligent, sport and sport sharp mode are for. Bren étuned my car with an accessport and I use the button to change from low boost in intelligent to high boost in sport sharp. And it was $150 for the whole tune I believe 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 That's what intelligent, sport and sport sharp mode are for. Bren étuned my car with an accessport and I use the button to change from low boost in intelligent to high boost in sport sharp. And it was $150 for the whole tune I believe Been a while since I got tuned. I wonder if drive and sport mode can be 2 tunes for us non SI drives. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Been a while since I got tuned. I wonder if drive and sport mode can be 2 tunes for us non SI drives. Im sure if you shoot him an email he can answer that for you. My experience with them was quite good. The tune has been solid since I got the car almost 2 years ago 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Cryotune is another good option Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted October 12, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted October 12, 2015 Been a while since I got tuned. I wonder if drive and sport mode can be 2 tunes for us non SI drives. I don't think he can do. If you have an accessport, he can give you two different maps and you can switch them if you know you're going on a road trip, dailying, versus weekend driving or racing in mexico Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I don't think he can do. If you have an accessport, he can give you two different maps and you can switch them if you know you're going on a road trip, dailying, versus weekend driving or racing in mexico Yeah that's what I figured. I was trying to have mild tune to break in then slide to the right for when break in is complete. I'll figure out what I want by the time I drop the engine back in. I gave up on AP since V1 ate a few ECU's of mine and went open sourced. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted October 15, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted October 15, 2015 I'll tell you that most tuners prefer the accessport because they can do most of their adjustments on the fly without having to turn the car off and doing a hard flash. I personally think it ends up with a better tune because they are less aggravated with the "process" and will do more revisions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I'll tell you that most tuners prefer the accessport because they can do most of their adjustments on the fly without having to turn the car off and doing a hard flash. I personally think it ends up with a better tune because they are less aggravated with the "process" and will do more revisions I guess I'll grab another one then. I avoided them since my V1 bricked the ECU. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted October 15, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted October 15, 2015 Yeah, the v3 is amazing. And I have never heard of a v2 or v3 bricking the ECU, even if you kill the power mid flash. With those sorts of things, it's usually user error more often than a hardware issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.