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mccorry's engine rebuild thread - 185K miles


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Coming back together.

 

I need to pull the oil pan back off tomorrow to verify something. I think I switched bolts by accident. Late tonight, I found an oily 10mm bolt (with phillips head) underneath the engine hoist leg. My photos show that I put a non-phillips head 10mm bolt in its place in the sump (on the windage tray oil pickup brace). I'm going to verify and swap it out. Picture is attached.

 

Other than that... just chugging along.

 

on your oil pan seal it looks like you have a cork seal, is that all you use or do you combine with RTV as well. and what brand is it?

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Just got home from vacation last night. Today, I got the intake, turbo, and clutch on... Then put the engine in, primed it, and fired it up. Long day, but she's hitting on all cylinders.

 

I let it heat up to operating temp and shut it off. Tomorrow I plan to go for a 15-20 minute drive on low boost (<10 psi). That should start seating the rings. Going to do a higher boost drive Tuesday.

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Big :).

 

Make sure you change the oil and filter to get the assemble lube out of there. Make such you have burped the cooling system.

 

Good Job.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Didn't get to drive the car yesterday, so I took it for a spin tonight. Everything went really well, except the oil pressure went a little lower than I expected when the engine was warm. When I started it up Sunday night, it dropped to 20 psi warm at idle after 15 minutes.

 

After 15 mile drive tonight running the engine up and down under low boost, oil pressure dropped off to 60-70 psi at 2000-3500 rpm. Idle oil pressure (warm) is around 18 psi.

 

I was expecting 20 PS idle and ~80 psi crusing.

 

No noises or leaks from the engine and the dipstick shows clean clear oil at Full. I'm breaking in with Valvoline Dino 5W30.

 

Thoughts? Should I be concerned?

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A quick search, I found this; Measurements taken warm. Straight from the '05 STi FSM.

Oil Pressure:

98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or more at 800 rpm

 

294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi) or more at 5,000 rpm

 

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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OK... Went for a longer drive today. Cold fast idle oil pressure was ~85 psi. As engine warmed up while driving, oil pressure dropped to ~ 16-18 psi at idle (~600 rpm). Cruising at ~ 3000 rpm at operating temp. after 15 minutes of driving only yielded 50 psi.

 

Oil is Valvoline 5w30 conventional. Am I looking at a bad or faulty oil pump? Should I buy a new 11 millimeter unit?

 

I appreciate the input, Hammer Down. However, I'm kind of freaking out as I checked all the clearances. I did reuse the original pump and pickup. ���������� ��

 

I really expected higher oil pressures. I'm afraid something is wrong.

Edited by mccorry
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I'm not terrible at math, but looking at the fsm numbers posted and what you're eexperiencing, you seem to be fine.

 

Am I missing something?

 

 

You're right. It's more of me being paranoid, I guess. The car used to always hit 20 psi @ hot idle and ~ 80 psig @ 3k RPM hot.

 

After the rebuild with new bearings and all the clearances within factory specs, I was expecting to hit closer to the same pressures. It really freaked me out when I saw 30 psi lower pressure. :spin:

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Stock is 10mm in our cars.

 

Yes, you're right. If I was going to yank the pump out, I was thinking I'd go with a slightly larger unit in case there truly was some extra clearance that I missed...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just passed 100 miles on the motor. Everything looks good still. Oil pressure sits right around 50-60 while cruising around 2500-3000 RPM. Still running low boost levels (<5 psi) and lower RPM (<4000).

 

I do have an issue with the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield smoking slightly when I shut the car off. I can't find any oil leaks on the valve cover, back of the head, timing belt, etc....

 

I was thinking that the heat shield just has excess oil in it from me spilling oil on it while it was on the floor. I'd think it would burn off by now. If it doesn't stop in the next day or so, I'll pull the heat shield and try and figure out what's smoking.

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I would plan on 3 weeks unless you don't have anything else to do, most of us have real jobs. ;)

 

I pulled mine Apr 28th and had it running May 20th.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Glad she is back up and operational, and happy I was able to be just a small part of this. I wish I was able to assist more. I hope she stays true.

OTM.

Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about ;).
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  • 4 weeks later...

Just crossed 1000 miles on the newly rebuild engine. Everything still going alright. Gained about 10 psi when I engaged AVCS (was running an economy map during break in). Oil pressure sits around 70 psig at 3K RPM. Idle is around 18-20 psig.

 

I've just recently been pushing it a little harder and have noticed that it's not hitting target boost levels. Only hitting 14-15 psig on a Stg. 2 map. No noises or anything. Not a huge deal right now.

 

I had about $1100 in parts (gaskets, rings, bearings, etc.) and $450 in machine shop work.

 

Took me under a month with a few breaks in there (one week vacation). I'd say you could do the job in 2-3 weeks.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...

Argh.... 65K miles (4.5 years) on the rebuild and it looks like I've got an internal head gasket failure, again. I heard sloshing in my coolant system on cold start last week and verified this weekend that the engine is slowly pushing coolant to the overflow reservoir.

 

It's frustrating. I did everything right, I thought. Machined the heads, had the block checked, installed heads with ARP head studs, etc. I used Fel-Pro MLS gaskets. Could this be the issue? This is the same failure mode I had the first time (combustion gasses leaking into the coolant).

 

Just trying to get some ideas before I decide on what to do going forward. Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just ordered the updated 11044AA770 Subaru EJ257 gaskets for the rebuild. Going to pull the engine, pull the heads off and try to determine the failure mode. After I clean the head and block, I plan to check for flatness and finish. Probably will lap the head. Not sure about the block.

 

While I'm at it, going to do the timing belt and idlers along with the release bearing for the clutch.

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