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mccorry's engine rebuild thread - 185K miles


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Coming back together.

 

I need to pull the oil pan back off tomorrow to verify something. I think I switched bolts by accident. Late tonight, I found an oily 10mm bolt (with phillips head) underneath the engine hoist leg. My photos show that I put a non-phillips head 10mm bolt in its place in the sump (on the windage tray oil pickup brace). I'm going to verify and swap it out. Picture is attached.

 

Other than that... just chugging along.

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Hey man, excellent work - thanks for sharing. The internals of that engine look fantastic, especially for 185K miles. I have two questions:

 

I.) How did you immobilize the cams to get the stubborn cam bolts out? did you use a cam holding tool or some other approach?

 

II,) what oil have you used in this car?

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Hey man, excellent work - thanks for sharing. The internals of that engine look fantastic, especially for 185K miles. I have two questions:

 

I.) How did you immobilize the cams to get the stubborn cam bolts out? did you use a cam holding tool or some other approach?

 

II,) what oil have you used in this car?

 

Post #2 to answer "?" #I)

Post #4 to answer "?" #II)

 

:)

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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I see the answer to question #II, but unless my reading comprehension stinks, question number I is still up in the air: how did he take the cam retaining bolts off without turning the cam?

 

You are correct, he only told what he used to remove the cam pulley bolts, but not what he use to hold the pulleys.

Sorry, I assume \ read between the line of his post. People usually use the correct tool of the job. Search Company 23. Or Some as used the TB to hold the cams on place to break the bolt free.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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You are correct, he only told what he used to remove the cam pulley bolts, but not what he use to hold the pulleys.

Sorry, I assume \ read between the line of his post. People usually use the correct tool of the job. Search Company 23. Or Some as used the TB to hold the cams on place to break the bolt free.

 

Sorry for the question, Im really unfamiliar with these Subaru engines. I figured there must be a tool but was curious. For example, Toyota makes cams with a hex portion which you can slip a wrench over in order to lock the cam as you unbolt the cam pulley bolt.

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Sorry for the question, Im really unfamiliar with these Subaru engines. I figured there must be a tool but was curious. For example, Toyota makes cams with a hex portion which you can slip a wrench over in order to lock the cam as you unbolt the cam pulley bolt.

 

Here is another method:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/broke-my-camshaft-gear-241321.html?p=5155566#post5155566

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I broke the two intake cam bolts loose with the engine still in the car and the transmission in 5th gear... foot on the brake pedal. I couldn't get the two exhaust cam bolts to loosen. Ended up getting the passenger side one out with a 3/4" impact wrench. I had to drill out the drivers side exhaust cam bolt.

 

I've run Valvoline (conventional) 5W30 or 10W30 up until around 125K miles. I started having lower oil pressures while cruising (65 psi vs. 80 psi). I then switched to Shell Rotella T5 to keep my pressures a little higher (73 psig).

Edited by mccorry
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Well... I kinda screwed up. I've been working on the motor for 8-10 hours a day over the weekend and until late hours. I put the new timing belt on late Sunday night and lined everything up. I turned the motor over about 10 times by hand with a ratchet to try and prime the oil pump a bit....

 

Was putting on the cam covers when I noticed my screw up. I used the Triangle on the crank cog instead of the box/line. I felt like such an idiot and was very pissed at myself for making such a silly error. Basically... I had the crank 90 degrees retarded from where it should have been. This puts the intake valves open and pistons at TDC.

 

I don't remember and hard force or any noise as I turned it over, but now I'm paranoid. I stopped the build and have been waiting on a leak down tester to show up to verify the intake valves are not tweaked / bent. The look OK visually and they do hold liquid (brake cleaner) in the intake ports when they are closed, so I might have gotten lucky. I hope so.

 

<---- feels like an idiot.

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Leakdown tests were all over the place. 7% on cylinder 1, 16% on 2 & 3 and 21% on cylinder 4. Talked to the owner of a local Subaru engine shop about it and he told me he would go with it. Since the motors never been fired, the rings will leak due to not being seated. Since the valves were out and cleaned/lapped, they will leak until they snap closed a few times. Because of these facts, he said that you can't really trust a leak down test. Since the valves hold brake fluid, he recommended to put the engine in, prime the oil system, and fire it up. He said the rings and valves will seat up as the motor runs.

 

Travelling this week, but wishish me luck when I get back!!

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Leakdown tests were all over the place. 7% on cylinder 1, 16% on 2 & 3 and 21% on cylinder 4. Talked to the owner of a local Subaru engine shop about it and he told me he would go with it. Since the motors never been fired, the rings will leak due to not being seated. Since the valves were out and cleaned/lapped, they will leak until they snap closed a few times. Because of these facts, he said that you can't really trust a leak down test. Since the valves hold brake fluid, he recommended to put the engine in, prime the oil system, and fire it up. He said the rings and valves will seat up as the motor runs.

 

Travelling this week, but wishish me luck when I get back!!

 

This sounds like sage advice. I still think you are fine, but Im no expert.

 

Good luck and safe travels.

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