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2005 LGT build thread - xAgyex


xAgyex

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Today, I used the NuLens Headlight Restore kit, to give my headlights some well needed TLC. Overall its ok, will redo them when I have more than an hour to spear to get them back to stock. They are close to stock but just need a little bit more polishing.

 

I used:

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/product/images/07251_Mothers_NuLens_DIY_Headlight_Restoration_Kit.jpg

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Probably best to replace that MAF rather than spraying it down again, they die over time...

 

Regarding the misfires, after doing the plugs, if your compression #'s are good, it could be tight exhaust valves (not uncommon after ~150k on these motors). A leakdown test might also be a good idea.

 

But first I'd clean and service the injectors, maybe replace the intake manifold gaskets while you're in there... And the TMICs have a tendency to leak over time, as the pinches loosen and plastic weakens. If you haven't already, definitely check the turbo inlet for cracks under the clamp or other wear.

 

If you're a gear head, you should know what you've gotten into: a high mileage turbo car. Without knowing much about it's history, you're opening up a black box - who knows what you'll find... You also should know that these cars return great dividends when they're well looked-after, and your wagon looks to be a keeper.

 

Once you're on solid footing, as others have said, a downpipe and tune will force you to love the car.

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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I had the same problem, Mine was later a coil problem. After 152k on mine, it still runs strong and am over 321whp.

 

JoeJITSU, I have had a similar issue in my Rx8 and it turned out to be coil packs too. I will give it sometime, but definitely will order a new set. Sucks because I just did the spark plugs, and those things were a pain to get out, I should have replaced them then.

 

JoeJITSU, thanks for the heads up.

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Probably best to replace that MAF rather than spraying it down again, they die over time...

 

Regarding the misfires, after doing the plugs, if your compression #'s are good, it could be tight exhaust valves (not uncommon after ~150k on these motors). A leakdown test might also be a good idea.

 

But first I'd clean and service the injectors, maybe replace the intake manifold gaskets while you're in there... And the TMICs have a tendency to leak over time, as the pinches loosen and plastic weakens. If you haven't already, definitely check the turbo inlet for cracks under the clamp or other wear.

 

If you're a gear head, you should know what you've gotten into: a high mileage turbo car. Without knowing much about it's history, you're opening up a black box - who knows what you'll find... You also should know that these cars return great dividends when they're well looked-after, and your wagon looks to be a keeper.

 

Once you're on solid footing, as others have said, a downpipe and tune will force you to love the car.

 

LatentWagen, thanks for the info. I definitely know what I purchased...I still had high hopes, but its all good. I can manage, most of the issues have been sorted its just minor things. I definitely think the responsiveness of a LGT vs a sports car (ie: S2000, Cayman S, etc) is a bit slow, and that is why I will remedy the bogging issues.

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If you're comparing the responsiveness of an AWD family sedan to two of the best handling driver's cars of all time, I think you may have high hopes, but I'll be happy to watch the process! If you mean engine response, two zingy NA rev-happy motors versus a mid-range turbo torque monster like our 2.5 might also be apples to oranges. Stage two is about the best you'll do, short of down-sizing to a TD-04, or perhaps going with a small 16g, or even a rotated GT-28 (that'd be fun). Maybe talk to JMP about a VF40 upgrade?

 

Whichever route you go, I'll be tuned in!

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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If you're comparing the responsiveness of an AWD family sedan to two of the best handling driver's cars of all time, I think you may have high hopes, but I'll be happy to watch the process! If you mean engine response, two zingy NA rev-happy motors versus a mid-range turbo torque monster like our 2.5 might also be apples to oranges. Stage two is about the best you'll do, short of down-sizing to a TD-04, or perhaps going with a small 16g, or even a rotated GT-28 (that'd be fun). Maybe talk to JMP about a VF40 upgrade?

 

Whichever route you go, I'll be tuned in!

 

LatentWagen, when I say responsiveness, I am was picturing when I step on the gas...NOT TO THE Floor, but just slightly even press the gas, the LGT would respond in a more linear way, until turbo kicks in...But it seems to not have a linear curve fr acceleration....lots of bumps in the way....Oh wells, I am sure there is something minor wrong like coil packs or even vacuum line somewhere.

 

I have talked to a shop here t do the VF40 upgrade...probably wont unless this turbo goes bad.

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  • 1 month later...
It has been about 2 months since changing the spark plugs, and I have not had another CEL. The 2500 RPM stumble is still there but, it doesn't bother me any more. I plan to get it tune sometime, when I have a chance.
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I have a stumble around there only on cold start though. You may want to get a stage 1 tune at the least as that will help the car out significantly. I think you'll warm up to the sleeper wagon that these are. I'm interested to see where you do go with it.

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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  • 3 weeks later...

Recently picked up a nice set of 2011 WRX wheels and tires. Will install snow tires on them. My OEM LGT wheels cracked so well had to get a new set so figured I update to these.

 

235/45/17 tires will be upgraded to fit better as I have some minor rub to 225/45/17s.

 

http://i.imgur.com/iqFKfPB.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Wz6GT78.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So my front driver wheel bearing starting howling at me a week or so ago, and since the holidays are coming up, I wanted to fix it as soon as possible. Well I was pleasantly surprised when i found out that the Hub Bearing Assembly(HBA) for these cars comes in one pieces and only requires the removal of 4 bolts to get out. So I replaced it yesterday.

 

TIP: Get slide hammer to pull out the HBA if it is stuck or rusted over. PB Blaster is your best friend.

 

***Fix for: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited 2.5 Turbo front wheel bearing***

 

Purchased:

1. Genuine Subaru Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly for 2005-2013 Legacy and Outback - $180.24

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XLICYO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00]Amazon.com: Genuine Subaru Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly for 2005-2013 Legacy and Outback: Automotive[/ame]

 

2. Subaru 902170049 Axle Nut - $7.64

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-902170049-Axle-Nut/dp/B00I7996N8/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=07ABR9TN857M6SBMJ8G8]Amazon.com: Subaru 902170049 Axle Nut: Automotive[/ame]

 

------------------------------------------------------------

DIY (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-wheel-bearing-diy-walkthrough-86994.html)

 

1. Jack up and support front end of Subi.

2. Remove Wheel from HBA in question (19mm bolt)

3. Remove ABS sensor (10mm bolt)

4. Remove axle nut (32mm bolt)...recommend having a buddy press the breakpad while you use some kind of air tool or cordless impact tool.

5. Remove break pads (14mm bolt), caliper asembley(17mm bolt), and secure caliper on a hanger.

6. Remove rotor...you can use 8M screw to pull it out if rusted to HBA...I just used a lot of PB Blaster spray.

7. Remove 4 (14mm bolts) directly behind HBA.

8. Remove HBA from hosuing...recommending spraying lots of PB Blaster and then using a Slide Hammer to pull it off.

http://i.imgur.com/lOgLl5b.png

9. Compare old bearing to new bearing

http://i.imgur.com/rkbaMJc.png

http://i.imgur.com/DMqeCrK.png

http://i.imgur.com/ng3aizb.png

http://i.imgur.com/NJ5q988.png

10. Install new bearing, remove shield from old bearing and place on new bearing...don't get this wrong or else you will have to take it all off and do it again. Verify with the other side how the shield goes in and looks.

11.fit axle into it first, then 4 (14mm bolts) - zig-zag pattern to make sure it seats well, then torque to 49 ft-lbs.

12. Reinstall the rotor.

13. Reinstall caliper assembly, caliper, and break-pads.

14. Reinstall axle nut. Have someone press the breaks then torque to 169 ft-lbs.

15. Reinstall ABS sensor.

16. Reinstall wheels.

17. Remove jack(s).

18. Tighten lug nuts.

19. Go for a ride and listen for noises.

20. Park and have a beer.

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Also decided to replace the old blue Tee Fitting with a Company23 Tee fitting.

 

http://i.imgur.com/WehlD9Z.png.

 

Still booging out between 2500 rpm to 3000 rpm. I think at this point, i need to get my ECU reprogrammed/tunned.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It has been almost 4,000 (currently at 150,319 miles, the last time was at at 146,907 miles) but the CEL P0302 -Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected.came back the other day. The car drives just fine, only issue is no cruise control.

 

I clear the code, changed the oil, checked banjo bolts. I will try to saw the coil pack later to see if the code moves.

 

http://i.imgur.com/8pJTixr.jpg

 

Driver side Banjo bolt is right under the injectors above cylinder 2 coil pack.

http://i.imgur.com/vXkLhar.jpg

 

Looked like previous owner removed the filter or maybe came this way.

http://i.imgur.com/bpxFGDz.jpg

 

Passenger side Banjo bolt was a pain to get to, but located under the up-pipe mount bracket, just behind cylinder 3.

http://i.imgur.com/I0P1uO2.jpg

 

Looked like the previous owner removed this filer too.

http://i.imgur.com/GZTTg1w.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
So when does the build thread start? So far this is just a maintenance thread, not to poo poo on your thread, but a build threat is usually upgrades and mods that is all.

 

socalsleeper, sorry not going to build this LGT. Dont have too much confidence in it lasting. But it is a good car for now. If it is still here next year, I will start the build. Although to make it more reliable I plan to get it tuned, with Cobb intake.

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Hey, that shit ain't no joke. I had my prints stolen!!!

That data breech a while ago at the federal gov't a lot of people got all their info compromised to include prints.

You join the military to serve your country, and some Chinese dude steals your personal info ain't that some BS.

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Hey, that shit ain't no joke. I had my prints stolen!!!

That data breech a while ago at the federal gov't a lot of people got all their info compromised to include prints.

You join the military to serve your country, and some Chinese dude steals your personal info ain't that some BS.

 

socalsleeper, exactly. Hahah I think its ok to act crazy when it comes to things like that. They will get it if they really want it.

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socalsleeper, exactly. Hahah I think its ok to act crazy when it comes to things like that. They will get it if they really want it.

 

It would take a long time to get a whole set of prints by combing LGT for partials of one finger at a time, but I guess it could be done! Probably easier to just go dust your car or something, but I know what you're getting at.

 

Gloves, next time ;)

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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Since I keep getting the CEL CEL P0302 -Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected (Today came on again currently at 151,063 miles), I ordered a replacement coil pack to start the troubleshooting. Drives well, just hate CELs.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARJRDGI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00]Brand New Ignition Coil Pack[/ame]

 

-------------------------

 

Spark Plug looks fine to me:

http://i.imgur.com/LPDjTQA.jpg

 

Had to swap the screw from the old to the new coil pack...the old screw is shorter

http://i.imgur.com/obpZGdM.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/8EiPz7N.jpg

 

Noticed a little bit of oil on the pack and in the chamber, but I think it was from when I checked the banjo bolt filter...the one directly above cylinder 2:

http://i.imgur.com/wydSrOa.jpg

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