05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Awhile back I stripped my 05 Legacy of all it's parts, it had 115,000 miles and was in the usual condition of a 10 year old unmaintained vehicle in the northeast. About 2 years before when I bought the vehicle, I had bearing and turbo failure and my local Subaru dealer put my engine together with multiple major issues. I decided to start over with the motor, rebuld the 5EAT trasmission, upgrade and reassemble the front and rear diffs, and upgrade the supporting systems. I already had the Cobb AP2, and I garaged the car and parted out some of the parts I intend to upgrade. I still have the downpipe and uppipe(Invidia & Tomei respectively), and below is a list of current mods. What I need is turbo, intercooler, exhaust, ignition control(feasible?), Oiling system mapped and upgraded, someone to assemble and time my engine and possibly consult on building the supporting systems which I will be assembling, and then a tune, obviously. I also am not sure if the 2005 Legacy GT has an ignition system that is capable of being upgraded, and if not, will I need stand alone engine management? Any info is greatly appreciated. I also posted some pics I upgraded the linkage and did a lot of detail work on the mounts and brackets. While I save the final $$$ I will need to finish this project. A couple thousand dollars more to go. - EJ25 Case - Cleaned & Honed - Nippon JDM STI pistons - Stock crank - cleaned checked knife edge - Stock Rods - King XPG Main & Rod Bearings - ACL Head Studs & Block Hardware - Balance \ Blueprint \ Heads Checked (The Lab Machine Shop Long Island) - Port \ Heads Upgraded \ Springs\Retainers etc.(Undecided) - IJ 1000cc Top Feed Conversion - AEM Fuel Regulator - Plasma Coils - AEM Oil Pressure Gauge \ Sensor - AEM Air Fuel \ Wideband - Deutchwerks 65C Fuel Pump - STI Intake Manifold(Need advice on feasibility - I have the OEM composite unit still) - Skunk2 Throttle Body - Cosworth Composite TGVs - Perrin Turbo Inlet Hose - K&N Cold Air Intake - Mishimoto Radiator & Fans - Mishimoto Oil Cooling System w\Filter Housing - Nations Alternator 270 Amp - New Power Steering Pump OEM - Level 10 Torque Converter Mod - Level 10 Front Diff Upgrade Mod - Level 10 5EAT 750HP Mod - Level 10 Valve Body Mod - Drive Shaft Shop 1-Piece Driveshaft 1000HP - Drive Shaft Shop Axles Front & Rear 1000HP - Timken Wheel Hubs - Whiteline Diff bushings, Diff cradle bushings, trailing arm bushings, Lateral link bushings, front lower control arm bushings, pretty much every bushing. - Spec B Lateral Links, Trailing Arms, Front Control Arms - Group N Top Hats - Whiteline and Cusco Strut Tower Bracing, Cusco Power Steering Brace, Both Front Underbody Braces, Perrin 25mm front SB, AVO 20mm Rear SB w\Reinforcment brackets, AVO Rear Underbody Braces, Whiteline Rear Lower Control Arms, Both Subframes and power steering rack new OEM There is probably more, I just wanted to express the vehicle is ready for power all around. HP Goals are in the neighborhood of 390WHP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 More pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Ok, did I do something to offend everyone here or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 No, I just wouldn't have painted the oil cooler. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Yeah a little over the top with the oil cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Seems like a laundry list of random parts. 390whp is not that much. Id1000 is overkill as injectors work best at 90%duty cycle. I see no brake mods? Who is doing the engine rebuild? why sti pistons? and why stock rods? Seems like you are short changing your engine by staying with stock parts. Id have spec ed the turbo first then sorted the rest of the system? Also 390whp seems arbitrary? What areyou going to be doing with car? Dd? Drag race? Autox? Lapping? garage queen? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 As boxkita said why stock pieces. a set of 4032 pistons will hold up a lot better than sti pistons at that power level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 This forum is for members who are rebuilding their own engines. If you're not planning to rebuild your own engine, please advise and we'll move this to Turbo Powertrain sub-forum. Thanks! Good luck with your project. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 I would like to rebuild the bottom end myself and have someone install the heads/cams and time it, as i have seen others DIY that part and have serious issues. There are a lot of expenses in getting this set up right, i feel confident enough to build the short block and drop the motor in, then install everything else. That frees up about 2 grand for incidentals. Ok so I'm sorry about the pics. I was just showing some of the parts to give you an idea of what I'm working with. I have put a lot of time and work into it so far, tore it all down myself, and replaced and rebuilt everything but the motor. I bought the JDM pistons from Nippon because most research showed that unless you are just tracking the car, forged pistons might be more trouble than it's worth. Plus the Nippon pistons seemed to be of a much higher quality than my stock pistons. I keep reading on LGT that a good tune and E85(which i am converting to), can make a big difference with detonation and ring land failure. If anyone disagrees and thinks 4032 billet is needed, i was considering the FSR's before i got these for $200. It wouldn't kill me to resell the boxed Nippon units and upgrade the rods and pistons. I would like to track the car, AutoX\Circuit, but i probably will only run it like that once or twice a month, the rest of the time it will be garaged or taking a little cruise on A1A when i move to Florida. There will be plenty of time for rechecking and repairing after every track day. If I'm going to end up with damaged or burned out pistons when exceeding stock parameters, I will gladly relent and shell out for a good set of H-beam rods and billet pistons. I'm hoping for a little slack and guidance here in light of my limited experience with building a Subaru motor. I have some time to figure this out and build the block as this is strictly a project car. I have to admit that I'm not familiar working with aftermarket clearances. If i have to bore match the pistons to a higher clearance at the machine shop, will i have to also use bearings with extra clearance and a higher volume oil pump as well? Will I need to further modify the oil and pathways in my block and heads? Lastly, yes i know it was over the top to paint all the parts lol. I did use engine enamel with primer and i will cure the parts properly. I had a long period of saving money before i took the 5eat to Level 10 to rebuild, so i utilized it by stripping all the rusty bolts and making all the parts look good. I love my car what can i say? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Oh i forgot to ask, boxkita, how far do you think i can go safely on stock style hypereuectic pistons? I thought 390WHP would be pushing it. And its not a laundry list, these are the parts i had on my last build, it's not like a fantasy list or something. The only items that weren't on my last build(318WHP) were the fuel regulator, STI intake manifold, and plasma coils. I was saving the fuel regulator, lines and fittings for the E85 conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Where in NY are you ? My buddies machine shop in Somersville CT has had good luck with forged pistons in these motors. Eastwoods Auto Machine. If you serious about your whp # you might seriously think about better pistons. The Tune is the most important part. Have you read my click here link ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Also look into an aos. crawford perrin or iag. these motors love to throw it into the intake. anything over the 350/400 line is very susceptible to random knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 anything over the 350/400 line is very susceptible to random knock. Especially on oversized pistons. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Also look into an aos. crawford perrin or iag. these motors love to throw it into the intake. anything over the 350/400 line is very susceptible to random knock. Sgt.Gator and I have both experienced oil in the intercoolers from using a aos. Be careful with using this extremely "racecar " part unless required. If you have never ridden in a 350hp lgt, I suggest you get a few ride alongs. Especially if its running light weight wheels. I rode in a few 300+ cars and 2 with c/o before deciding on my parts. The torque number was picked based on riding in several cars driving a particular stretch of road. I'm not saying don't do it, just understand what you are getting into. forged motos require more diligence with oci and more warm up time before you can drive them hard. Getting the matching components that let you drive the car rather than look at the car is more than a random parts list. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Keeping with that thought, my wagon at 280whp/300ftlbs is a fun daily driver. (stock ej257). Another 30-40whp would be plenty in these cars on the street. On cold pavement the car will spin the wheels in a 1st gear roll on. Now that its warm out the car hooks up and moves forward. With the Koni Yellow's, there is little to no body movement under acceleration. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Yeah my wagon is near the limit of the stock pistons. I was at the limit but they turned it down to a modest 335whp/377wtq on 93oct but i have done almost everything u can to avoid hotspots. ELH/new fuel rails lines and fpr/aos etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 I won't be in a cold climate as I am moving down south(Towing the Legacy down with my Jeep GC 5.7L). How much I will be able to build on in the meantime depends. I know that I want to do this right, maximize the longevity of my engine, and have a safe and powerful vehicle that is capable on the track and not too over the top for the street. I am aware of the time and effort required to own a car like this, and I am fully committed to caring for it. Again the list I posted in the OP was mostly my previous build. I upgraded most of the parts myself, except for the TGV delete, and it was tuned twice since I had the new complete engine. The block and heads have 12,000 miles on them. At the last tune I was running at 318WHP and 298FT LBS. I will be running 99.5 pistons. Supposing I went with the FSR Billet pistons, Pauter connecting rods, and had the crank worked on at the machine shop, upgraded the head internals, port\relieve\polish.... a) What changes need to be made regarding oiling and bearing clearances? - b) Will the machine shop know what my PTW clearances need to be or will I have to provide that to bore match them? c) Are there any tricks or pitfalls I should be aware of when assembling the bottom end? d) If I did want to push this build, which seems like a better idea after hearing opinions and reading a lot of threads, what would be a good turbo \ intercooler combination? I will be running EWG, should I be installing a rotated setup? Should I be using my stock intake manifold or the new STI unit I have on the shelf? Would there be more difficulties associated with the STI mani \ rotated setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 I forgot to add, I will also be running speed density and E85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Look into 4032 pistons. Even if you are in a warmer climate they will last longer before needing to be rebuilt. Each manufacturer has clearance #'s for their parts for the power goals. good bearings like king will save the bottom end. MAhle 4032 are known good up to 450whp. wossiner idk. Cosworth is in the 700whp range with their special 4032 recipe. Measure and re adjust to make sure the clearances are dead on. turbo depends on final power goals or what you want to do with the car. along with which intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 Thank you for all the info. I am maintaining stock sleeves so I don't want to go overboard, I'm not sure I'll have the funds to reinforce the block or sleeve it. Nightmaresmk, have you read the threads where 4032 was discussed and has the potential to cause engine failure after very few detonation events? Are Cosworth 4032 pistons specifically designed to avoid this? They claim a proprietary formula, and don't seem to have the questionable reviews that Mahle has here and on NASIOC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 So this seems like a train wreck, however, I'll bite. You're at 300/300 more or less. You talk about track & DD. What are your goals? Do you want a track car that you can drive to the track or do you want a DD that can do some lapping days? Or do you want a DD that puts a smile on your face and makes objects in the rearview look small? A "track car" is more about overbuilding for heat management and under-running for longevity. A "lapping car" is more about replacing oem parts (radiator, brake pad/disks, tires/wheels, etc) and adding ICE to make DD more fun A "DD" that makes you smile is about everything else. If you want a solid track car (to do over again), get a long block from one of the big performance places (cosworth, crawford, rallitek, etc) and tell them what you intend to do with it 90% of the time and what the other 10% use will be. A 8000rpm 600hp motor is an awful choice for a track car. 300tq-350tq with a nice flat curve is way more fun and driveable, than a peaky triangle shaped curve (if you were an expert, that'd be incorrect - however...). A lapping car is a DD that does a few events a year. So build a nice DD and enjoy it on the track. A DD with power - go all out, however, a DD that you have to work on all the time really sucks. Unless you like doing that. In which case, going to the track will frustrate you more than you could ever think. A DD that requires fiddling all the time, will be parked for most of the day at a track event. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 Look, I try my best to be respectful and I watch a lot of people get reamed for being over sensetive here, but seriously what is wrong with some people? I've put over $30k into my car so far and busted my ass putting this together, and because you're a moderator you get to **it on me and make me feel small because I need help figuring out where to go with building my engine? I purposefully built my suspension and drive train up before choosing my brakes and engine configuration so I could pull the trigger on the right setup after careful consideration. I think I made it clear in previous posts that I want a DD I can drive to the track, maybe occasionally a few times a year put it on a 1\4 or 1\2 mile strip. This is not a car I will be driving to work or the grocery store. I've spent almost 2 years with it in my garage making sure everything is checked. I've taken every damn bolt out of this car, I've cared for it way more then most people will ever care for their car, so I would love to know why this is a trainwreck, when it hasn't even been built yet. Why do you think I'm engaging in a thread on this forum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTL25TSLEEPER Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 And I know most racing applications call for under 400HP setups, I'm not interested in 600WHP, but again I'm here to learn from anyone willing to discuss these cars. I'm not brand shopping, I am interested in the SYSTEM as a whole, the realities of the situation, supporting systems required, as opposed to brand references and vague insults. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Stock pistons, great tune, fuel pump and injectors, shoot for 320-330whp. With a great tune, you'll have a fun car that can do what you want. "its all in the tune" 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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