Paulharootunian Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 Hi, I bought a theft recovered 2005 legacy GT for $4,100 off of eBay. Ran great driving it home. Still running good over the weekend. Friday good, Saturday good, then Sunday morning while getting on the freeway I hear a very loud whining sound when getting into boost. Immediately think turbo is going. I was less than a mile from home so I kept driving. I get it towed to a friend that works at a subaru dealership. (He does private work on subarus on the side). He test drives it, says it's fine, "building boost up just fine" but there was a leak in the Y pipe so I have that replaced. The car needed an enhanced safety inspection because it had a salvage title from being theft recovered which is why I had it replaced. Pick it up, drive it to the shop where it was getting the inspection and I heard funny noises coming from the turbo half way home. Turbo pretty much is done when I arrive. My mechanic takes the whole thing apart, oil is very very low. Turbo wasn't getting any oil, oil and coolant being pushed through the exhaust and smoking like a chimney. I agree to put a new turbo in it. Quotes me 2000 for everything. Puts the new turbo in, test drives it. He blows the brand new turbo. The shop warranties all work so he puts another one in and he finally identifies the problem. Needed a knew oil pump and some other things, pictures have all parts he put in it. Please read what my mechanic wrote about the car and what he did to it. Long story short there was metal shavings in the oil pan. Turbo is now not warrantied because of the shavings. Got the car back, runs great but there could be possible engine damage from metal shavings. I'm now over 8k into the car and I don't know what to do. Sell it? But I really want to keep it. I'm only 17 and I worked 3 long years for this car and it's a huge disaster. If anyone could help or give any advice that'd be great. Overall question. Could my engine really have damage?
Paulharootunian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 Better picture of what he did. Also, I did replace the banjo bolt when i got the car. car has 109k miles
Holla Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 Does it currently run? Pretty much everyone does a full rebuild in your situation. Metal shavings in the oil almost always take out the short block. 2005 LGT 6MT Limited Wagon
Paulharootunian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 Yes it does currently run. Runs good actually. Really think it needs the block?
Holla Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 Really tough to say. You may have gotten really lucky but odds are not favorable. If it's not knocking and running well I wouldn't replace it. They generally fail pretty quick after metal is introduced into the oil, but if you didn't drive it and flushed the oil out really well it is possible it was saved. 2005 LGT 6MT Limited Wagon
Paulharootunian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 Drove it for a little less than 10 miles since I got it back. No knocking. Oil pan was dropped and oil was flushed
Holla Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 I'd trade it in tomorrow if I were you. 2005 LGT 6MT Limited Wagon
Paulharootunian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 You think I should try to sell it on eBay or take it to a dealer?
compsurge Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 You can sell via private sale on Craigslist, but don't be a jerk and sell it to an unsuspecting buyer. Trading it in at a dealer may be an option as well. These cars are fun, but not for a young person without a lot of cash saved up. In the end, you'll wish you just got a reliable naturally aspirated econocar.
Paulharootunian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Posted May 8, 2015 Got your pm, thank you John. Definitely considering doing what you've told me. We will be in touch!
doobaruGT Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 You likely have a long road ahead. There are a ridiculous number of threads around here from folks with the same issue. A whole new shortblock will run you about 1900. Deck and clean the heads (at least) for another grand, install, and you're off. The alternative is that you try to purge the system of metal (hint: it's incredibly challenging). You're looking at multiple, successive oil changes with filters and perhaps a magnetic drain plug (that won't pick up all the metal since it's not all ferrous). In the end, you might be better off with a trade-in or short sale on CL. At least that's a nice down payment on a new vehicle. It's your prerogative; you just have to decide if you're willing to fix it right. PS: don't drive it unless you want to guarantee yourself a new shortblock Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE!
Max Capacity Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 #YNANSB. You have metal in the oil system, which includes the oil cooler. You have done damage to the bearings. If you rebuild now you can save the heads. If you drive it more you will damage the cam journals. Sorry that's the story. Your guy should have pulled the down pipe before he even started the car to check for shaft play on the turbo. Any body who knows these cars will tell you that. You have a quick learning curve, read the post on here, and the sticky's. See my click here link for ideas how to do it right. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
doobaruGT Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 What about doing multiple 3 flushes? That's your only other option besides replacing the shortblock. However, doing that also risks the cam journals since every successive start spreads contaminated oil throughout the block. Even if it's less contamination, it's still very risky. We're telling you YNANSB (you need a new shortblock) but it sounds like you working your way towards a longblock. This is not the car for the faint of heart...er...finances. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE!
Mike07LGT Posted May 8, 2015 Posted May 8, 2015 That's your only other option besides replacing the shortblock. However, doing that also risks the cam journals since every successive start spreads contaminated oil throughout the block. Even if it's less contamination, it's still very risky. We're telling you YNANSB (you need a new shortblock) but it sounds like you working your way towards a longblock. This is not the car for the faint of heart...er...finances. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I agree.. you should get out from under it while you still have a chance. Without a solid paying job and the tools and knowledge to do work on your own, you will buy the car twice just to get it back on the road the right way, when you could have invested in something newer an nicer that fits your budget. Best of luck with everything! 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD)
Paulharootunian Posted May 9, 2015 Author Posted May 9, 2015 Doing a short block or any kind of rebuild is not an option for me. It's either try to get rid of the shavings or sell the car. How high is the risk of flushing?
doobaruGT Posted May 9, 2015 Posted May 9, 2015 Doing a short block or any kind of rebuild is not an option for me. It's either try to get rid of the shavings or sell the car. How high is the risk of flushing? You need to ask yourself one question. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/08/8a23d77f29baaef64ffa0784aa809381.jpg It's hard to say but I'm letting you know ahead of time to expect (and prepare for) the worst. You've already made the decision to run it on a bad turbo. Most guys who end up trying to avoid a tow bill and limp it home find out their block is toast. I hate to be a Debbie-downer but it's just true, man. Try flushing (several times over/the more the better) and see what happens. Best of luck to you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE!
JmP6889928 Posted May 9, 2015 Posted May 9, 2015 You need to ask yourself one question. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/08/8a23d77f29baaef64ffa0784aa809381.jpg It's hard to say but I'm letting you know ahead of time to expect (and prepare for) the worst. You've already made the decision to run it on a bad turbo. Most guys who end up trying to avoid a tow bill and limp it home find out theiuhr block is toast. I hate to be a Debbie-downer but it's just true, man. Try flushing (several times over/the more the better) and see what happens. Best of luck to you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You lie. You like being a Debbie Downer. Its Debbie that hates it. :hide:
GTTuner Posted May 9, 2015 Posted May 9, 2015 Flushing is a waste of time. The right way is to pull the oil pan, clean it, replace the oil cooler and clean the banjo fittings. Make sure the turbo oil feed line is not blocked. Then become a religious man and pray it stays together. I did this to one car and it lived.
doobaruGT Posted May 9, 2015 Posted May 9, 2015 ^how could I forget about the oil pan and oil cooler?! Good idea! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE!
JmP6889928 Posted May 10, 2015 Posted May 10, 2015 Flushing is a waste of time. The right way is to pull the oil pan, clean it, replace the oil cooler and clean the banjo fittings. Make sure the turbo oil feed line is not blocked. Then become a religious man and pray it stays together. I did this to one car and it lived. Read OP-I believe he said pan was off and washed out.
Paulharootunian Posted May 10, 2015 Author Posted May 10, 2015 Read OP-I believe he said pan was off and washed out. Yes
Paulharootunian Posted May 10, 2015 Author Posted May 10, 2015 Flushing is a waste of time. The right way is to pull the oil pan, clean it, replace the oil cooler and clean the banjo fittings. Make sure the turbo oil feed line is not blocked. Then become a religious man and pray it stays together. I did this to one car and it lived. I had all of that done.
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