LV - Rich Idle and Boost

[gimpydingo]

07 LGT 5EAT STG 1, 86k miles, stock parts/air filter.

 

EDIT: Cryo Tuned

 

Been working to correct this for some time now. AF A and D are rich, usually around -5 to -8 or slightly more. While replacing parts, A did start running lean at one point, but it's back to running rich, once I got everything buttoned up.

 

I've pressure tested the system, both through the inlet and the small bpv hose. It holds pressure, I hear no leaks as I did before. Seems to point to the TB hose, but I have that seated quite well, and the clamps are super tight. I've read as many posts as I can find about this, but from searching seems it's still pointing to the TB. Posting this up to get some other thoughts.

 

ECU was reset after I tested the pressure in the system.

 

Here is the list of repairs:

 

TB gasket

IM gaskets

OCV's removed and cleaned

PCV replaced

Valve cover breather hoses

 

:spin:

 

 

EDIT: Never had codes, no misfires, car starts fine. Does idle a bit low, in Park around 750 - 800, in Drive around 650 - 700.

 

I do get a little stumble if I hit the gas a little too hard, like a quick pause before it ramps up. I chalk that up to Turbo and 5EAT

[BarManBean]

-7 really isn't that bad. If using an OTS tune, it's probably a bit rich anyway.

[gimpydingo]

-7 really isn't that bad. If using an OTS tune, it's probably a bit rich anyway.

 

I'd be happier closer to 0

 

Edited the post. It's a tune by Cryo. He tuned out as much as possible, but he was thinking it must be mechanical. That was 8+ months ago. I hadn't had the money to get the maintenance parts I wanted until now.

 

Want to try and rule out mechanical first with any suggestions. Even the stock ECU is running rich (of course). Checking everything first, then will head back to chat with Cryo if needed.

[Andy_Mac]

You're not actually running lean or rich. That is telling you the ecu is taking away 7% fuel to get the afr correct. Commonly associated with intake pipes leaking somewhere. Did cryo actually say he tried tuning this out? Bit of a wording confusion? Its is in no way a tunable value other than tuning open loop based off the 40+ Closed loop value to make sure open loop isn't running rich. If you were at more than 15% then you would infact be running unsafely. The only value to really worry about is the 40+ one as that can indicate open loop could be running with the same air loss and needs 7% fuel removed which it will not do by itself.

You're on the right track with the replacement parts though.

 

Have a read of that.

http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic4899.html

[gimpydingo]

You're not actually running lean or rich. That is telling you the ecu is taking away 7% fuel to get the afr correct. Commonly associated with intake pipes leaking somewhere. Did cryo actually say he tried tuning this out? Bit of a wording confusion? Its is in no way a tunable value other than tuning open loop based off the 40+ Closed loop value to make sure open loop isn't running rich. If you were at more than 15% then you would infact be running unsafely. The only value to really worry about is the 40+ one as that can indicate open loop could be running with the same air loss and needs 7% fuel removed which it will not do by itself.

You're on the right track with the replacement parts though.

 

Have a read of that.

http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic4899.html

 

 

Let me rephrase. When I replaced the turbo inlet, Cryo revised the map and he said he added a little fuel, but there is not much else he can do, since it seems to be mechanical. Get that worked out and then we can proceed with any revisions needed, if needed. So no he wasn't trying to tune this out.

 

I just went out to fill the beast up with some 91 prius blood, take it for a drive and do some logging. My AF correction at idle is now around -0.78. I've attached the LV for the learned values and obv looking better. I'll give it a little time to mellow and keep checking.

 

Chalk it up to it's a FI Subby? LOL

[gimpydingo]

Dumb question. In RR the AF Sensor #1 is obv the front O2. Should that be sitting at or around 14.7 or will that move around while driving? It seems to be reading 14.7 ish, but I see it as high 20+ in areas.

[Andy_Mac]

Mine sits at 6.5 for the lowest one but almost nothing further up which is why he's hesitant with yours. Top one can mean open loop may be problematic. If you reset the ecu it'll probably take a few days to decide it definately needs the adjustments. is 91 the best you can get in CA?

 

It'll continuously change. It aims for 14.7 but with the obviously never consistant situation whilst driving it'll vary. Quick burst on and off throttle will get it to show 20. As long as its only instantaneousy doing that and not lingering then its not a problem.

[gimpydingo]

Mine sits at 6.5 for the lowest one but almost nothing further up which is why he's hesitant. Top one can mean open loop may be problematic. If you reset the ecu it'll probably take a few days to decide it definately needs the adjustments. is 91 the best you can get in CA?

 

It'll continuously change. It aims for 14.7 but with the obviously never consistant situation whilst driving it'll vary. Quick burst on and off throttle will get it to show 20. As long as its only instantaneousy doing that and not lingering then its not a problem.

 

Thanks. Yeah the jump above 14.7 is only for a moment.

 

91 is the highest. I've heard there is 100 at the airport 15 miles away or laguna seca for 100/110 lol

[Andy_Mac]

That sucks. guess its what you get when you live in the so called eco conscience state

[gimpydingo]

That sucks. guess its what you get when you live in the so called eco conscience state

 

Wonder if you could have just found the revision and did it yourself. You need to get yourself a tune!

[Andy_Mac]

What do ya mean in that first bit?

Had a cryotune myself about 6 months ago now. Still perfect.

[gimpydingo]

Ignore, I meant to respond to another post. lol

[gimpydingo]

So now A, B, and C are -1, D is -9.5. Getting close. Any idea on where else I can look?

[Andy_Mac]

9.5 is getting pretty bad. I think there is some logic to where things are more likely at different ranges but can't remember where i read it. have you checked out the intercooler. I'd be pulling that out and checking all the folded tab things top and bottom.

 

Cryo's leak checking walkthrough might help too if you haven't seen it already

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/intake-vacuum-leaks-and-you-pics-inside-235626.html

[gimpydingo]

Yeah, I've been through all of this many times. I found a stripped thread on one of my manifold bolts, so need to get a it to fix that. I have a larger bolt in there now and it's snug, full fix coming soon.

 

I too would suspect the IC, possibly the TB which I did get a newer, stronger hose clamp for. I did notice a small leak in my IC a long while back and I did crimp everything back down, and no leaks when I pressure the system. Though in the 40g+ range obv there would be some hills and/or boost and that could be pressurizing the system higher than I was testing, obv causing a leak if there is a small one.

 

Hoping maybe the not fully torqued IM bolt was causing this. We shall see soon.

 

I'll check the IC again and look at the bullet proof kit for it, just for safe measure.

[gimpydingo]

Got 80 miles on the car today, nice hilly roads and long stretches of freeway.

 

#A is +5

#D is -3

 

When I had the car idle AF Correction was sitting at +3. So probably a little something with the IC, but for all the work I have done I'm pretty happy where it is at.

[Andy_Mac]

Yea 5 either way is considered to be acceptable as long as it is infact going to stay within that. Would definately be doing the bulletproof mod if the intercooler tabs are starting to loosen up.