Finding the problem

[alyolles]

So guys, I got an email from my tuner today stating that I have problem... Here is exactly what he said

 

"Well unfortunately it appears we probably have a leak in the system or something going on. I see a couple things that point to that or a sensor reading off of what it should *IE maf or 02 sensor*

 

The intake kit should require us to add a good amount of fuel across the board and at this point we are at stock values in some areas and under stock values in other areas which is saying the ecu thinks we are still overfueling rather than running lean which would not be possible with the intake kit installed.

 

the other thing I see is that the DAM is not at 1.0 which shows the ecu is pulling timing in areas because of perceived knock which could indicate that same leak/sensor issue is causing the car to run lean on the top end causing knock.

 

The fact we are running very low timing and still seeing issues combined with the other things mentioned makes me believe there is a mechanical issue causing our problems."

 

Does anybody know how exactly I would go about finding what is wrong?

 

Thanks guys

[Dispatch20]

Do you have an Accessport or some other method of data logging?

[alyolles]

I have been sending my tuner data logs using my Accessport V2.

[Dispatch20]

Can you attach a couple logs (.csv) for us to look at? It might help us point to a vacuum or boost leak. And what is the specific intake kit the tuner mentioned?

[alyolles]

Ok I will post logs in a little while when I get home. The intake kit is a K&N typhoon intake.

[Dispatch20]

Some other info that would help prior to reading the logs:

1) Did the car run well prior to the new intake or did the problem arise after the intake install?

2) Was the intake installed with other components at the same time? Or just the intake?

 

Keep in mind that other LGT owners have had issues with CAI's. It appears as though the stock Subaru airbox is pretty good at "behaving well" with the MAF. Some people have observed that air turbulence from the CAI seems to cause the MAF to read poorly. I don't know the extent of the issues.

[alyolles]

The car is stage 3 and has had a VF52, DP, UP, exhaust, intake etc. for a while. Also has a new shortblock with about 2000 miles on it hence why it is being tuned. Here are 2nd and 3rd gear pull logs that were used while tuning.

2ndgear pull new REV01.csv

3rdgear pull new REV01.csv

[MrTris]

OK, now, I'll admit, I don't know too much of what I'm looking at, but, I do know that you're not logging the right params to really see the right things.

 

Reset your logging parameters, then go redo a log. And, for the love of whatever God you believe in, stop going WOT. Is there any particular reason you need to be 100% throttle at 2K???

 

The thing you really need to be most concerned about is recognizing a pattern -- where and when is it pulling timing? To see that, you need to see/log FBKC, or Feedback Knock Correction. We need to see if it's pulling timing and then putting it back, as, that's the most important part. If it's not putting it back (in .2deg increments, if you must know), then there is a persistent issue causing knock.

 

Fine Learned Knock Correction (FLKC) is super bad, though -- It means the ECU has learned that historically, under those particular conditions, it usually knocks, which means it pulls timing whether there's a knock event or not.

 

I'd also add the Dyn Adv (not DAM -- we already know it's a persistent .88, but, I'd like to see if the ECU is even advancing any timing at all.

 

Your MAF readings are a bit.. strange. My guess is that your MAF is not happy with the turbulent air from the intake. Just like with the scientific method, you should only change one thing at a time, and, in this case, since you changed the intake (KN Typhoon is meant to swirl the air, anyhow, which is likely the "turbulence" the MAF is seeing, and throwing off the readings), to confirm its effects, you need to switch back to the stock box and panel filter.

 

Take a look at mine, this is what WOT logs should look like -- Clean AF.

 

Then go reset your Log Params and go drive somewhat normally, especially since you've got knock events -- this is really not the time you want to go WOT.

02132015WOT - Sheet1 (1).csv

[alyolles]

OK, now, I'll admit, I don't know too much of what I'm looking at, but, I do know that you're not logging the right params to really see the right things.

 

Reset your logging parameters, then go redo a log. And, for the love of whatever God you believe in, stop going WOT. Is there any particular reason you need to be 100% throttle at 2K???

 

The thing you really need to be most concerned about is recognizing a pattern -- where and when is it pulling timing? To see that, you need to see/log FBKC, or Feedback Knock Correction. We need to see if it's pulling timing and then putting it back, as, that's the most important part. If it's not putting it back (in .2deg increments, if you must know), then there is a persistent issue causing knock.

 

Fine Learned Knock Correction (FLKC) is super bad, though -- It means the ECU has learned that historically, under those particular conditions, it usually knocks, which means it pulls timing whether there's a knock event or not.

 

I'd also add the Dyn Adv (not DAM -- we already know it's a persistent .88, but, I'd like to see if the ECU is even advancing any timing at all.

 

Your MAF readings are a bit.. strange. My guess is that your MAF is not happy with the turbulent air from the intake. Just like with the scientific method, you should only change one thing at a time, and, in this case, since you changed the intake (KN Typhoon is meant to swirl the air, anyhow, which is likely the "turbulence" the MAF is seeing, and throwing off the readings), to confirm its effects, you need to switch back to the stock box and panel filter.

 

Take a look at mine, this is what WOT logs should look like -- Clean AF.

 

Then go reset your Log Params and go drive somewhat normally, especially since you've got knock events -- this is really not the time you want to go WOT.

 

First off, only reason it was WOT was because these were the only logs I had and they were the pulls for my tuner. I will go out as soon as I have a chance and run some logs with normal driving. The intake has not changed, it is what came on the car 8 months ago and I never had the stock air box and filter on it.

[Dispatch20]

I wish I could you help, but you just don't provide enough information. Here's a good example of how to write a post asking for help: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rough-idle-start-up-issues-no-vacuum-leak-239120.html

 

Compare the history and technical information he provides with what you have. Can you do anything similar to that? It's your only chance at getting a helpful answer online.

[alyolles]

Hey guys I cleaned the MAF sensor and that seems to possibly fixed at least one problem being the DAM is a a solid 1.0? Im sure you guys will tell me because im not exactly sure what I am looking at. I did some logs of mostly normal driving in some city and some highway. The logs are too big to be attached, so here are the google sheets link to them:

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pqCP-C759IptGd9ALMd2CeBWi3Klbmrg6Xcr8iNmE48/edit#gid=798622968

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JtErJg8yar4q8F0cClfP5x30FnzO-R9b_VmpQEpuz7k/edit#gid=1046498731

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JzdEmgCNW1qogNhXiQL2oKZjY46_PvomT3qmSpyUaqY/edit#gid=1289316821

 

Thanks for all of the help guys. BTW car has VF52, SPT exhaust, K&N typhoon, perrin TMIC and one or two other things.

[MrTris]

If your DAM is at 1, finally, that means the knocking has subsided and it was your MAF that needed cleaning.

[alyolles]

While the knocking has indeed subsided I believe from the DAM, I did find two boost leaks... On the inlet and outlet of the the intercooler specifically where i circled in red. Any idea where I can get new gaskets for these two places?

[MrTris]

You need a Mr Gasket 738g for the turbo to TMIC connection. (Amazon for that) and, the stock diamond gasket should be fine on your BOV, I think.

 

EDIT: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-738G-Water-Outlet/dp/B000CMF20O]Here you go![/ame]

[alyolles]

Are these the correct gaskets? http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Subaru/08_10_WRX/Intercoolers/Subaru_OEM_Bypass_Blow_Off_Valve_Gasket_for_08_10_WRX.html

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-738G-Water-Outlet/dp/B000CMF20O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428173708&sr=8-1&keywords=Gasket+738g]Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 738G Water Outlet Gasket: Automotive[/ame]

[MrTris]

Yes, and Yes.

[alyolles]

Great, anything we can do aside not WOT for the next two weeks until we get the gaskets?