HOW TO: 2015 Subaru Legacy Door Panel Removal and Component Speaker Install

[ndavies]

I got around to replacing the speakers in my 2.5i Premium this weekend. I put together a quick how to with some pictures. Hopefully this will help those of you wanting to replace the speakers.

 

Here is a link to the pdf that is much easier to follow and has some detailed pictures (it was too big to attach to this post)

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6wgYxg53E4ILUk1NG42SDJid3M/view?usp=sharing

 

If anyone has any questions just ask, I'll see if I can point you in the right direction!

 

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2015 Subaru Legacy Door Panel Removal and Component Speaker Install

Required Tools:

1. Panel Removal Tools (anything non-marking you can pry with HDE 12 Pcs No Scratch)

2. Phillips Screw Driver (You will need a really short one for the dash speakers)

Optional Tools (These will make it easier, some are required for the component install)

1. Metra Speaker Brackets (really recommended, but if you feel like saving a few bucks you could cut the stock speakers out of the brackets or make your one out of mdf. )

a. Front - Metra 82-8147

b. Rear - Metra 82-8148

2. Metra Speaker Wire Adapters

a. Front, Dash, and Rear are all the same Metra 72-8104

b. If install 2 or 3 way speakers in all locations I’d get them. I just used them in the back because You’ll need to run new wire from the dash down to the door for the tweeter of the component system.

3. Velco (to hold the crossovers in place) (required for component install)

4. Tweeter mounting brackets (required for component install)

5. Extra Speaker wire - 18 awg is cheap, available, and easy to work with. Anything thicker and getting to be hard to rout through to the door. (required for component install)

 

Wiring Diagram information: (for those not using speaker wire adapters)

 

Left Front Speaker (Dash and Door same) - Purple(+) / White (-)

Right Front Speaker (Dash and Door same) - Blue(+) / Pink (-)

Left Rear Speaker - Orange (+) / Red (-)

Right Rear Speaker - White (+) / Yellow (-)

 

Step 1.

Note :All the door panels come off the basically the same. I’ll show the driver’s door cause it has the extra wiring harnesses.

 

Locate two screws found under flip up covers. (these covers are connected to the door panel so don’t pry too hard to lift them.) There is one in the door handle. And the other is armrest.

 

Step 2

Pry around the outside of the door panel. It will pop loose.

 

Step 3

Disconnect all wiring harnesses and the door handle from the door.

 

My premium had 1 harness for the puddle light, 1 for the light in the armrest, and 3 for the controls. Just make sure you unplug everything before you pull the door panel away.

 

 

Note: On the driver door the largest connector’s release pin is on the back.

 

 

Step 4

Disconnect and unscrew speakers. After they are unscrewed they will need a little pry to get them to pop of the door. Thankfully Subaru screwed the speakers in rather than riveting them.

 

Note: Although the cutout would fit a 6x9 speaker it would have to be really shallow to clear the track for the window. See pictures.

 

Step 5 (Optional)

Sound deadening application.

 

Now is the time to apply any sound deadening material is used a generic 80mil dynamat alternative.

 

The doors already had better insulation than I have seen before so I just put some on the inside of the door panel.

 

Step 6

Dash speaker removal

 

The covers just pry off. I started in the front on both sides and worked my way around.

Step 7

Tweeter Install

 

This step is going to be different for everyone depending on what speakers you use.

 

I used Infinity Kappas and I had to make a small metal bracket out of a pipe hanger. However you mount them just make sure they don’t stick out farther then the stock speakers.

Step 8 (Component Systems only)

1. Running the new wire for the component system.

a. I used the factory connector in the door panel for the input to my crossover and ran a new wire from the dash speaker location down to the door. And then a short easy run of new wire from the crossover in the door to the door speaker.

b. This was the hard part. You’ll need lots of patience to rout the wire down from the dash then out the factory opening, through the rubber tubing over to the door. I ended up cutting a small hole in the middle of the rubber tubing to help pull the wire through.

2. Find a place for the crossover. I just put some industrial strength velco on mine and stuck it to inside of the door panel.

[JMPhoto]

Awesome. Thank you for putting the time and effort into this. I was planning on doing the install and your PDF made it easier. Can you comment on the sound performance after the install? I have been wanting to do this, but I don't want to replace the head unit of the premium. I know you have to stay with more efficient speakers, but did the factory system drive the new speakers well enough? Edited March 24, 2015 by JMPhoto

[ndavies]

I replaced the speakers with Infinity Kappa 609CS upfront and Infinity Kappa 629I in the rear doors. These are power hungry speakers, I am also planning on making a fiberglass box for a Kappa 100.9W 10 inch sub. And adding a Alpine PDR-75V 5 channel amp to power everything properly.

 

All that being said the factory unit actually supplies an alright amount of power to the speakers. The mids and highs are fantastic actually. There is just not quite enough power there to get the woofer really going. You are right about wanting more efficient speakers. Infinity speakers even run at 2 ohm instead of 4 ohm. (there is a big debate here I know, but from my experience they do make more sound from stock head units)

 

If you stuck to the reference or even new primus series of the infinity speakers i think they would perform better with the stock power. I had the reference speakers in my old car run off the stock head unit and they probably had more bass response at the lower power then the Kappas I just put in but it's hard to tell for sure cause i have still breaking in the Kappas.

 

One option that works well is a small amp like the Alpine KTP-445U. It provides 45x4 rms and is super easy to install. Since the Legacy has 30 amp fuse for the stereo so it can actually run off the same power circuit which means no need to run a power wire to the battery. And it takes speaker level inputs. Here's a thread from an outback forum with some info on that http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/233930-alpine-ktp-445u-powerpack-amp-installation-2015-outback.html It seems to fit nicely away behind the head unit.

 

My suggestion is to start with the speakers. Those have to go, the stock ones are terrible you'll probably laugh when you take them out. Then if you want more power take a look at the alpine ktp-445u if you have no plans of adding a sub later.

 

I'm glad this was helpful for someone!

[im2c0ol]

I have KTP-445U on my SUV now, haven't got a chance to crank it up yet cuz the rear speaker still stock, It's loud, it's probably a good option for the premium guys.

[Bolt]

Do you have any pictures of the stock speakers? Are they really bad, like cardboard-cone bad?

I'm hoping to do the same thing and replace the speakers as a first step. The stock audio sounds terrible.

[ndavies]

Here are some pictures of the rear speakers as well as the comparison to the new speakers. Yes the stock speakers are paper and they are terrible. Also the magnets are laughable. The sound quality is like night and day already and I haven't had time to get to the amp and sub yet.

[baggar11]

I replaced the speakers with Infinity Kappa 609CS upfront and Infinity Kappa 629I in the rear doors.

 

Great info, thanks for posting! I can't find any specs on those tweeters that come with the 609CS's. Do you know what size tweeters would fit up front in the dash? Would 4 inchers fit?

[ndavies]

The dash speakers are 3 1/2 inch. The tweeters I put in are 1 1/2, I had to make some brackets to hold them in place. 4 inch would probably not drop in. I'll pop the grills off and take some pictures and measurements when I get home tonight. Any idea would you need for the cutout and mounting depth for the tweeters you are looking to put in?

 

You could probably get them to fit if you want to cut out and tap new mounting holes. Although You might have to worry about mounting depth too, if it's something like this you had in mind. (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/PRO+Series/TS-B400PRO) I had to drop the ones i put in about an inch lower then the facotry speakers to get the grill back in place. So for something that needs 2 1/2 + inches of mounting depth might cause you some problems. I'm sure it could be done with some effort, but I might try something 3 1/2 or smaller instead, less mounting depth and would probably just drop right in.

[baggar11]

The pictures and measurements would be appreciated!

 

I did see these guys --> http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/Speakers-By-Size/TS-G1045R

 

But I'm still checking out the audio world to see what else is out there and can be dropped in easily.

[Bolt]

We need an audio sticky with all the info on the stock speakers, metra part numbers, and install info.

I just finished swapping out my speakers and having all that info handy would have saved a ton of time. This post and xero287's helped out a lot but they get quickly buried in the form.

[agangel]

I'm looking for speakers for my Premium and Crutchfield says they don't have any speakers that would fit the dash. What did you guys use? Any idea of the measurements of the stock dash speakers?

[ndavies]

Here is a quick look at how I did the dash speaker replace with the tweeter from the kappa component system. The mount bracket is just a piece of pipe hanger I made some bends in.

[ndavies]

FYI: The stock dash speakers are 3.5 inch 2 ways with a high pass filter right on the speaker.

[SammieC]

Trying to figure out the solution to upgrading my stereo, I ran across your article. I really appreciate the info and the instructions.

 

Trying to replicate the high end stock stereo, I located a harman amp out of my year (2015) legacy, do you think there would be any problems connecting it, and do you think the stock wires are in place to hook this up?

 

Also, I have the mid stereo, the same as the high, without the nav, so I imagine all the hookups should be there, but you never know.

 

Thanks again!

 

John C.

[jMeG]

Trying to figure out the solution to upgrading my stereo, I ran across your article. I really appreciate the info and the instructions.

 

Trying to replicate the high end stock stereo, I located a harman amp out of my year (2015) legacy, do you think there would be any problems connecting it, and do you think the stock wires are in place to hook this up?

 

Also, I have the mid stereo, the same as the high, without the nav, so I imagine all the hookups should be there, but you never know.

 

Thanks again!

 

John C.

 

Which model do you have? Base, Premium, or Limited? Each has a different sound system.

 

This has been discussed ad nauseum. Please use the search function next time.

 

Linked below are the relevant discussion threads.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-speakers-premium-trim-232661.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/starlink-head-unit-removal-schematics-237457.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/one-install-subwoofers-yeti-245710.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5i-premium-audio-upgrade-243376.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2015-legacy-audio-install-238375.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/premium-sound-system-upgrade-wiring-questions-237991.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/harman-kardon-speaker-diagram-233672.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/harman-kardon-speaker-diagram-233672.html

[securityguy]

Do NOT try this with a Limited model.

[SammieC]

Yes I saw some of these threads, yet I couldn't find the answer for someone trying to hook up a stock harman amp to the premium model, hence the question.

 

This was asked before I tore into the car and felt that a little info might save me a lot of trouble, ie: if the harnesses were already in place, etc...

 

I appreciate your answer, yet I did use the search engine and it didn't quite come through for me, the search will continue.

 

Maybe before pulling the forum police impersonation, you might actually read this and reread my question and ask yourself if these threads are answering the question or is this issue directly brought up in any form, in the thread....The answer is NO....and if you cannot answer this yourself, then the respectful thing would be to keep your "Search engine policing" to yourself, because maybe the member actually used the search function and came up with zero, all without policing, I realize this is hard to imagine, but believe it.

Edited November 12, 2015 by SammieC

[dgconnell]

Here is a quick look at how I did the dash speaker replace with the tweeter from the kappa component system. The mount bracket is just a piece of pipe hanger I made some bends in.

 

Can you provide any advice on fishing the wire for the tweeter? Will I have to take the dash apart or can it be done once the speaker grill is removed? Hope you're still around the forum. Thanks!

[Bolt]

Yes I saw some of these threads, yet I couldn't find the answer for someone trying to hook up a stock harman amp to the premium model, hence the question.

 

This was asked before I tore into the car and felt that a little info might save me a lot of trouble, ie: if the harnesses were already in place, etc...

 

I appreciate your answer, yet I did use the search engine and it didn't quite come through for me, the search will continue.

 

Maybe before pulling the forum police impersonation, you might actually read this and reread my question and ask yourself if these threads are answering the question or is this issue directly brought up in any form, in the thread....The answer is NO....and if you cannot answer this yourself, then the respectful thing would be to keep your "Search engine policing" to yourself, because maybe the member actually used the search function and came up with zero, all without policing, I realize this is hard to imagine, but believe it.

 

Yah you're right, this question hasn't been answered yet.

 

I looked into the same sort of thing. One of my biggest regrets is not going for the premium package but I just couldn't afford it.

 

Unfortunately it looks like the entire right-side wiring harness is different so it's not an easy patch-in. This includes all the H&K amp wiring and rear heated seats wiring. If you have the Clarion head unit (with the 6.2" display) it won't have the necessary connectors anyways.

[Bolt]

Here are some pictures from my speaker install.

The Focal integration sold me on having the crossovers part of the speaker harnesses so no extra wiring was necessary.

 

I basically followed ndavies guide and this just shows how I did the tweeters and other differences/problems I ran into along the way. Also part numbers and measurements for the stock locations.

 

Speaker_Install.pdf

[SammieC]

Yeah I followed most of his as well and went with infinity Kappas with little to no issues following his steps. My head unit looks a little different than yours, as there is a phone button on the left side and something else, but I'm inside the house at the moment.

 

Thanks for the info on the amp and rear seat heaters, I had heard maybe it was one harness splitting after the amps to the seats, but it seems this confirms it.

 

I imagine a 5 channel jl amp will work, though I found a stock harman amp out of a wrecked subaru, but guess I won't be able to use it.

 

If you figure out anything on this, please reply and again, I appreciate the info and the pdf.

 

Thanks!!!

[fullah]

Just installed four kicker cs65 speakers. With the free brackets and wire harness from crutchfield install literally took me about 45 minutes. I don't think it's necessary to disconnect any harness connectors from the door..i installed all my speakers without doing so. Just a stubby Philips screwdriver and u can remove the old speakers without disconnecting the door harnesses. However I did preasseble the new speakers to the bracket adapters prior to mounting them which is probably why I was able to do everything with harnesses connected.

 

I definitely need to amp these speakers as on the factory headunit they don't start coming alive until after about 50 volume. Also I noticed the rears aren't getting much power from the head unit. I'm assuming this is for sound staging but I'll probably end up running new wires straight from the amp to the doors to increase the volume.

 

Night and day difference between the stock premium speakers tho even without them being amped.

[fullah]

I have a 2.5 premium so it's not the hk system. I don't have any preamps either so shouldn't be too difficult. I think the premium non hk radio still has some type of filter built in creating a soundstage and pulling power from the rear

[IceWilly]

A bump to this thread to ask a simple question;

 

edit: found answers to my questions, documenting here.

 

When installing front door component speakers, is it difficult to access the speaker wires in the dash so you could tie into them to feed the crossovers in the front doors? Really don't want to be taking the dash off if i can help it.

 

Doesn't seem very difficult at all.

 

Also, from your reading and experience did you leave the dash speakers connected or just disconnect them and rely on the upgraded performance from the new component speakers in the door?

 

I haven't dug into the car enough under the dash to know how much access I have in there. Also I assume the dash side speakers are going to be rather useless once the door speakers are upgraded.

 

Dash speakers seem to be the small factory speakers/tweeters so these typically get replaced with actual tweeters if you have a component system up front. Not sure what the best decision would be if you didn't get components up front... i'd likely disconnect the factory tweeters in that situation?

Edited April 25, 2019 by IceWilly

[Grnlantern1]

My setup has the Corner Dash Speakers removed and Tweeters installed with custom brackets.. I used custom mounting brackets for the doors..

 

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