Kilgore_Trout Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 Hey Guys, My first post here, but I have been garnering so much knowledge in the past few months after picking up my first legacy (plain jane '97 wagon). Thanks to all of you guys for sharing your wealth of information. With your help I have gone through a long list of diagnostics to try to solve what started as a car stalled and then would not start issue, and now seems to be an issue with the flexplate/torque converter. Long story short: car shut off while driving, wouldn't start back up. Starter turns but does not engage the crankshaft. all of the belts are okay, engine is not seized. Went through the list of all possibilities thoroughly (with all of your help). Battery and connections are good, enough power/no drains, rebuilt starter with new contacts, tried swapping ignition switches as a last resort. All of this got me a little stronger of a turn from the starter, but all you hear is what sounds like metal spinning/flapping about. This led to the conclusion that there is an issue with the flex plate. It also led me in water over my head mechanically speaking. I guess my question is, what is the best course of action if I cannot do this myself? It's an uglier, high-mileage car, but I don't want to scrap it for chump change. Any guidance regarding cost/man hours or best course of action is greatly appreciated. Especially by newbie like myself...Thanks Guys!
johnegg Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 as far as pulling an engine is concerned, suabrus are easier than most, or so i hear. i have never pulled any others. the r&r can be done in a day. so a shop with experience should charge no more than 8 hours. if you have a drive way and can rent or borrow an engine lift, you could do this in a week end. there are lots of good write ups and youtube videos. there isn't a lot to mess up, gas lines, vac lines and throttle cables. what is your experience? can you change your oil, brakes, change a tire? you may be able to do this. a good flex plate should be easy to come by. i have a couple hanging on my shed wall. there are 2 sizes, the smaller(?) one is for the ej22 cars. http://www.car-part.com sort by zip code to see what is close. then by price to look for a deal. i would also recommend replacing the oil separator plate on the rear of the block. the one from the factory is plastic and will leak pretty bad at this age. the replacement will run about $35 with screws, and you have to pull the ngine to replace it. so if it is plastic, replace it with the metal one.
Kilgore_Trout Posted March 23, 2015 Author Posted March 23, 2015 Thanks for the info! I am a bicycle mechanic who did not own a car until last year haha, so I am mechanically inclined, but have never really worked on cars outside of basic maintenance, I have friends who are far more capable than I. I was really just trying to figure out if this is a project that I could eventually do on my own, and it sounds like with some research and a little help/right tools it shouldn't be too hard. Can anyone shed some light as to the fashion in which the flexplate / torque converter set-up works in the subaru engines? There is some info out there, but I woud like to be able to explain it to someone who has never worked on a Subaru engine before.
Setnev Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 I pulled my engine out in about 2.5 hours with a help of my friend. I have done engine removals before (mostly older V8's and transmount) and by far this was the absolute easiest removal ever. Only a few things need to be removed to do it. 1. Remove battery and airbox and assembly 2. Detach the AC compressor and PS Pump and move to the side 3. Remove and label fuel lines 4. Detach the two main harness connectors on the passenger side of the motor and the two relay connectors on the passenger side wheel well 5. Disconnect throttle and cruise cables and (if manual transmission) clutch cable from slave cylinder as it runs under the intake to the transmission 6. Remove heater core coolant hoses and drain and remove radiator & hoses 7. Remove starter 8. Disconnect exhaust manifold and unbolt the motor mounts 9a. Jack up the transmission enough to clear the motor mount studs (may have to loosen the transmission mount on the crossmember. 9b. If auto transmission, disconnect the torque converter bolts 9c. Unbolt bottom bolts that mate the transmission to the block 10. Put your hoist in the engine compartment and give the motor enough tension to slightly lift it and remove remaining tranny/block bolts/nuts. 11. Use pry tool to break the two apart, pull forward and remove engine. There may be a step or two I'm missing as I'm doing this from memory, but that is pretty much the extent of it.
johnegg Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 the flex plate is about the size of a large dinner plate. it bolts to the ass end of the crank shaft with 8(?) bolts around the center. there are 4 bolts on the outer edge that bolt on to the torque converter. so the flex plates acts the connection between the engine and the trans. there is a good thread you need to read about ''how to seat your torque converter'', posted by me. you may nor need it but better to know about it just in case. picture of a flex plate on the rear of a subaru engine. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd191/boostedbug/Subaru%20conversion/valance019.jpg
Kilgore_Trout Posted March 25, 2015 Author Posted March 25, 2015 This is great information guys, thanks for all of your help!
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