Rattsl's 05LGT Build thread (AutoX, track, yet good for daily)

[boxkita]

Oops forgot about wheel bearings. total junk. Tried every brand. Run the front ducts to the bearings. My fronts would be junk after the first session.

 

Front lsd will move you into a different class in autox.on track, it helps put down power when coming out of turns. Otherwise you have to radically change your apex. I didn't have one, so my apex was earlier and about 20 feet inside the turn. I would aim for that point and get hard on the gas. The understeer would push me across track to a perfect track out. Adjusting the rake helped with this, however, a front diff would have done wonders. Ask NSFW about his. I think Sgt.Gator has one too.

 

Brake calipers will get you bumped a class too. Stockers are fine. The mcb is a waste of money if you brake normally. it only matters to those who require instant braking. on track, that unloads the car to quick. Track requires smooth not sharp inputs.

 

Hawk hps is a great street pad and nice stsrter for autox. As you get faster, the hp+ is a good step up. Check the hawk temp vs mu chart posted by m sprank on the 4th gen thread. Pads need to be in their working range before they are useful. If too cold, they are useless.

 

600hp on track isnt going to help you. Nor in autox, unless you want to make gymkhana 8. However your car.

 

If you have a game console (xbox or ps) get a driving game forza or gta. Both have a lgt sedan. buy all the options. but start with a config as close to yours as it is now. DDrive tracks and autox that look like those in your area. Drive to get smooth not points. Once you get base fast, then add the full option list but dont adjust suspension settings. Now drive same track the same way. Except for the texas mile you should expect to be slower. And take some time to get faster. 600hp doesn't make you fast. You make you fast. When at track try to match times with a miata, thats your target.

/soapbox

[Rattsl]

Great advice once again. You talk about this corner balance deal as well. Do you mind explaining that? I'm ok I guess with my Koni Swift setup, since I have a bit of a dampening range to play with, but I'm also looking into camber plates and Whiteline tie rods.

[Specbwee]

Alright so if auto x is mostly your goal. Honestly mang I would get some el headers and throw on a methanol injection. There is a lot of debate about methanol but I have been running meth for 3 years now and no troubles. Essentially what it does when sprayed is richen up your fuel mixture. This in turn allows you to advance your timing. You get more power out of your engine and it's better for it. What I noticed from it was lugging through the gears down lower is highly reduced and the top end is a huge bump. mostly because it allows you to turn the turbo up. Also because it sprays In directly after the intercooler it helps to keep the engine cooler. Lastly it should save you on some gas but it didn't for me cause I gets the heavy foot.

[boxkita]

Great advice once again. You talk about this corner balance deal as well. Do you mind explaining that? I'm ok I guess with my Koni Swift setup, since I have a bit of a dampening range to play with, but I'm also looking into camber plates and Whiteline tie rods.

 

Prefacing this with : I'm not an engineer nor a suspension tech. I read alot and asked alot of dumb questions and paid alot of money.

 

Grassrootsmotorsports - http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/understanding-corner-weights/

NSXPrime (nsx drivers are more finicky than LGT) - http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/cornerbalance.htm

Calculator - http://www.robrobinette.com/corner_weight_calc.htm

Buy your own system - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=SCALES

What a shop will have - http://www.hunter.com/alignment/hawkeye_elite/features.cfm

Reading - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Car-Suspension-Practical-Handbook/dp/1844253287]Competition Car Suspension: A Practical Handbook, Fourth Edition: Allan Staniforth: 9781844253289: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

More reading - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_n_5?fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A283155%2Cn%3A10532%2Ck%3Acompetition+suspension&keywords=competition+suspension&ie=UTF8&qid=1416596690&rnid=1000]Amazon.com: competition suspension - Racing / Automotive: Books[/ame]

 

 

Corner balance aims to set the car's cross balance at 50/50. So left front corner weight + right rear corner weight = the opposite cross. This is best done with the driver's weight in the seat, the fuel at 50% (or the average of your gas tank during runs), and any other equipment you on track.

 

In the case of my wagon, we moved the weight farther back to make the rear less light (less tendency to oversteer). I'll look up the final numbers to see what we got, however, the cross was always even. The first day, it took 8 hours & 2 techs to get that.

 

If you have a system you like, adding camber plates will help increase the camber/caster. However, it has very little effect on the corner-balance.

 

If you follow NASCAR at all, you will have heard the term "weight-jacking". Using springs to adjust how much weight is on each corner. Corner-balance is the "sportscar" variant of weight-jacking.

[boxkita]

Honestly mang I would get some el headers and throw on a methanol injection.

 

Not in ESP class.

 

EL Headers don't solve a problem you have. Nor does meth. You need to get power on the ground as soon as possible and keep it. That is suspension, tires, setup, driving technique (in reverse order).

 

This is, usually, where I say you're doing it wrong. A fast driver in a slow car is always faster than a slow driver in a fast car, unless silver states race.

[Specbwee]

Not in ESP class.

 

EL Headers don't solve a problem you have. Nor does meth. You need to get power on the ground as soon as possible and keep it. That is suspension, tires, setup, driving technique (in reverse order).

 

This is, usually, where I say you're doing it wrong. A fast driver in a slow car is always faster than a slow driver in a fast car, unless silver states race.

 

 

Street Prepared Rules (DSP/ESP)

 

All modifications from the STU rules are allowed, except for:

 

• 
  
• Removal of factory emblems (debadging).
  
• Body kits (only front and rear spoiler allowed).
  
• Non-standard brake rotors and calipers.
  
• Front control arms and rear lateral links.
  

 

In addition, the following modifications are allowed:

 

• 
  
• Some updating/backdating with parts from different model years, see rule book for details.
  
• Modification (e. g. rolling, cutting) of fenders for tire clearance. Adding of fender flares.
  
• Seat (fully upholstered seating surface).
  
• Remove seatbelt for replacement with harness that meets safety restrictions.
  
• Any steering wheel.
  
• Front spoiler.
  
• Rear spoiler.
  
• Removal of radio/stereo.
  
• Any DOT approved tires (see rules for restrictions), including R-compounds, of any size.
  
• Wheels of any size and offset.
  
• Cross drilled and/or slotted brake rotors (ferrous, standard size, no two-piece).
  
• Brake cylinder.
  
• Fuel injectors and pump.
  
• Intercooler (including hoses).
  
• Intake water injection.
  
• Turbo-back exhaust (no cats required).
  
• Clutch (metal).
  
• Flywheel (metal).
  
• Shifter and shift linkage, e. g. short throw shifter.
  
• Transmission mounts (non-metallic).
  
• Differentials.
  
• Standalone engine management for non-turbo car (?).
  
• Port matching (see rule book).
  

 

"This is, usually, where I say you're doing it wrong. A fast driver in a slow car is always faster than a slow driver in a fast car, unless silver states race."

^That I agree with totally.

 

Have you used methanol?

[boxkita]

Street Prepared Rules (DSP/ESP)

 

All modifications from the STU rules are allowed, except for:

 

• Removal of factory emblems (debadging).
  
• Body kits (only front and rear spoiler allowed).
  
• Non-standard brake rotors and calipers.
  
• Front control arms and rear lateral links.
  

 

In addition, the following modifications are allowed:

 

• Some updating/backdating with parts from different model years, see rule book for details.
  
• Modification (e. g. rolling, cutting) of fenders for tire clearance. Adding of fender flares.
  
• Seat (fully upholstered seating surface).
  
• Remove seatbelt for replacement with harness that meets safety restrictions.
  
• Any steering wheel.
  
• Front spoiler.
  
• Rear spoiler.
  
• Removal of radio/stereo.
  
• Any DOT approved tires (see rules for restrictions), including R-compounds, of any size.
  
• Wheels of any size and offset.
  
• Cross drilled and/or slotted brake rotors (ferrous, standard size, no two-piece).
  
• Brake cylinder.
  
• Fuel injectors and pump.
  
• Intercooler (including hoses).
  
• Intake water injection.
  
• Turbo-back exhaust (no cats required).
  
• Clutch (metal).
  
• Flywheel (metal).
  
• Shifter and shift linkage, e. g. short throw shifter.
  
• Transmission mounts (non-metallic).
  
• Differentials.
  
• Standalone engine management for non-turbo car (?).
  
• Port matching (see rule book).
  

 

"This is, usually, where I say you're doing it wrong. A fast driver in a slow car is always faster than a slow driver in a fast car, unless silver states race."

^That I agree with totally.

 

Have you used methanol?

 

From the 2014 rule book for street prepared:

Except for standard parts as defined in these rules, the external

use while on course of liquids, ice, dry ice, refrigeration systems,

vaporized compressed gases, etc. to reduce the temperature of

the intake air charge is prohibited. Wrapping of intakes with liquid-

soaked fabric is not permitted.

 

No, I have not used methanol. Mostly because rule above, and the rest, because not needed. ProcessWest TMIC was always cold coming off track.

 

An LGT with a well-built stock engine and good tune running 3 good diffs with wide tires would pretty much mop up the course. Add in the lightening you can plus cage, putting you below 3000lbs wet; and you have an awesome car.

 

In most classes, an LGT is limited to an 8 inch wide wheel and a tire that fits inside the existing body work. About the only thing faster is an STI, Evo, and Cadillac STX. There's a reason you don't see LGTs at Lincoln.

[MrTris]

SRX, you mean? How is a baby carrier faster?

[boxkita]

SRX, you mean? How is a baby carrier faster?

oops cts-v, the one with the corvette engine.

[MrTris]

oops cts-v, the one with the corvette engine.

 

Makes sense. Agreed.

[Rattsl]

Setting up a day at the track for the 6th of December. I'm still working on some suspension issues, and like I mentioned in the WDYDOY4G thread, I'm going to pick up hubcentric rings to try and solve an issue. Other than that, this will be my first track day, so I'm not going to try and push the car to it's limits throttle wise, but I will see what suspension work needs to be done. I know my tires will be meh...but I don't have a spare set of wheels with sticky tires, so A/S tires it is for now. Getting out on the track will be exciting in itself.

[AFAwaterpolo]

This sounds like its going to be a fun build. Looking forward to seeing the build.

[Rattsl]

Thank you. Stay tuned for makeshift stuff and some top quality work.

 

 

Lets hope.

[Rattsl]

Saw someone on the What did you do thread post power gains and mods, and I'm slightly interested on his list, but modding it to my favor.

 

 

He has

 

VF34 W/ 08 STI manifold and top mount

K&N Typhoon intake

TGV delete with phenolic spacers

Walbro 255lph fuel pump

740cc DW injectors

and a step colder plug (Which....not sure if it's even necessary for this car. Pretty sure I'll stick to standard iridium.)

 

He's making 296whp and 334 wtq. Which pretty much a good number in my eyes with no real big alteration done.

 

That said, instead of using a VF34, couldn't I use a V52 like originally planned, and what top mount or possibly front mount would work best? Honestly, I didn't think it was possible to get close to that number with a top mount.**

 

 

 

** Dyno's read different, and my dyno in the area is a Mustang1000.

 

 

I've also been wanting to do a bit of exterior mods (aesthetics, possible marginal gains, maintaining a "stock" look with a bit of aggressiveness.) like removing my oem spoiler, and adding the JDM STI spoiler that includes the 3rd brake light, and removing my lip and replacing it with another, more simpler one that fits properly. Skirts and rear aprons will be nice touch as well, but I'm most likely going to make those myself since I'm not a fan of the plastic polyurethane material that fades color after time. To add, I'll be measuring the underbody and see about producing underbody trays to cover up certain areas. (Once again, highly marginal gains, especially for autox, but I drive 80 miles a day, at an average speed of 75, and mpg would be nice, given....weight/aerodynamics will counter here. Add weight to be aerodynamic, or reduce weight.)

[MrTris]

Well, there are some new BB turbos coming out at some point in the future from JmP. . Would you be interested?

 

Also, seems to me like the STi intake mani and top mount conversion would be just a little bit on the complex side -- as I understand it, they're not exactly PnP -

 

1-step colder is definitely recommended for Stage2 applications -

[Rattsl]

I seem to be finding VF52s at a reasonable price, so I'll stick to those, plus it's a direct bolt on. As far as intercoolers go, I'm still weighing options.

[gmentals]

VF34 and GS TMIC?

[boxkita]

if you can find a ProcessWest TMIC with its splitter, that's the top of the line TMIC.

[MrTris]

if you can find a ProcessWest TMIC with its splitter, that's the top of the line TMIC.

 

. . . Until the GS comes out. And then, there will be arguments.

[boxkita]

. . . Until the GS comes out. And then, there will be arguments.

 

I'd imagine the GS unit will add a little fan to the top of the TMIC with a dashboard gadget so you can see how well its working. The net effect of the fan will be akin to their masterful MBC brace. However, I digress...as the GS unit is still vaporware 2 years later.

[MrTris]

I assume there will be no such gadgets, but rather, skewed flow testing that we can point to, push our glasses back further upon our noses, furrow our brows, and argue with each other about its merits as we secretly buy it anyway, because the branding is so amazing.

[Rattsl]

Sooooo Process West. I'll look into them as well.

 

Subtle Solutions is making a chimney duct turbo heatshield that would (should) work with most tmics.

[Rattsl]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/25/96abd5ff75ebe111f180bc55f56d85a2.jpg

[Rattsl]

P0244 code today. Fml. Overboost wastegate issue.

[keenster]

Will that turbo cooler looken dealio work without top mounts?