Bypass hose - is there a test

[urdrwho]

Before I buy a new pump and gasket I was wondering if there is a way to test if the bypass hose is the leak.

 

I guess I would need to pull the timing cover to check it out. On the 2.2 can you pull the one cover on the right side without removing the fan.

 

I may need to move the ping pong table, refrigerator, 5 bicycles, some tables and pull the subbie into the garage. I have a 16 X 35 foot garage but it is full of recreational stuff and more like a room instead of a garage. I may be using it as a work garage for the subbie.

 

When I did the timing belt on the 2.5 I don't think I removed the radiator, just the fans.

[Osei]

When you say bypass hose, I am assuming you mean the metal pipe that goes from the water pump back to the heater. (water bypass pipe). Removing the t belt cover won't help, but removing the oil dipstick tube will give more wiggle room if needed on install. (the o rings on that tube are an odd size, prayerfully yours stays intact)

There is a brazed T fitting that supplies the throttle body. It can develop a pinhole leak and if so, coolant will pool on the top by the IM and drip down.

The short hose that connects this to the pump can be a suspect also.

If you have a way to pressurize the system most leaks will show up.

Suby water pumps rarely fail and like others will do so from the weep hole.

 

O.

[urdrwho]

The hose in question comes off the water pump, at an angle toward the bottom.

 

This all started after installing a new alternator. I measured the deflection of the belt after install but the power steering pump didn't like the tightness. I made it a bit less tight.

 

The other day I installed one small container of Bars Leak (yes I know --- flame suit on). It was the size that would do 2 quarts.

 

I also loosened the alt. belt a bit more.

 

Since then the leak has virtually disappeared.

 

The alt. belt / pulley doesn't engage with any pump pulley so I am ruling that out. Maybe the Bars Leak sealed whatever was leaking.

 

The TB hose leak thing, aware of because on the 2.5 that was previously installed, it had the leak.

 

I remember my Jaguar owners manual said to put a cachet of Bars Leak in once a year. I never did it because to me such a protocol spells a clogged radiator. My radiator is brand new so I have some room to clog.

 

Now that I have posted that the leak stopped....tonight it will appear again.

 

At least this problem is much less of a problem than the 2.5 (if you remember that issue).

 

When you say bypass hose, I am assuming you mean the metal pipe that goes from the water pump back to the heater. (water bypass pipe). Removing the t belt cover won't help, but removing the oil dipstick tube will give more wiggle room if needed on install. (the o rings on that tube are an odd size, prayerfully yours stays intact)

There is a brazed T fitting that supplies the throttle body. It can develop a pinhole leak and if so, coolant will pool on the top by the IM and drip down.

The short hose that connects this to the pump can be a suspect also.

If you have a way to pressurize the system most leaks will show up.

Suby water pumps rarely fail and like others will do so from the weep hole.

 

O.

[Osei]

Yes, I do remember.

That hose can be replaced with auto store hose. It does not make a bend that will cause it to kink, or you can get the oem replacement.

I would first change the clamp. They use a spring steel clamp which weakens over time. Use a screw type.

 

O.

[urdrwho]

This weekend I remembered something the install engine guy said when I picked up the car. I was busy at the time and I paid someone $400 to remove the 2.5 and install the 2.2. I had a bunch of things installed like a new IM gasket, bottom pan gasket, etc. What he said when I picked up the car was -- "you'll soon need a new timing belt."

 

I was just happy to have the subbie back I gave it no thought. Now I am thinking, wait a minute, you removed those covers to check out the timing belt, the engine was not yet installed. If the belt was bad, why didn't you call and say, you need a new belt? At that time with the engine out of the car, install would have been minimal labor.

 

My main go-to mechanic would have called me. When ht installed a head on my Jaguar, he installed new hoses that are easy to get to with the head off. I personally replaced those hoses 14 years before and can say that with the head on they are a big PITA. Head off, intake removed labor time is minimal.

 

So I am thinking now (conspiracy theory in me) that not doing it with the engine out on the floor, means it will need to be done at a later date with a new $300 labor fee. Hm? I hope it is only a conspiracy.

 

Yes, I do remember.

That hose can be replaced with auto store hose. It does not make a bend that will cause it to kink, or you can get the oem replacement.

I would first change the clamp. They use a spring steel clamp which weakens over time. Use a screw type.

 

O.

[Osei]

Minimal work to replace that hose. Just jack the car up for more room and replace. Of course you'll have to drain the system first.

I have been chasing a leak for the better part of two months. Dripping from the front. When adding coolant to refill it would drip then stop. Of course a loss after driving. Replaced pump, still leaked. Thought it may be a drain plug and with the onset of cold weather figured I had to find it. My garage is 30 miles from where I live, so it has been an issue taking care of this.

Pulled Tbelt and added water. Leaked but coud not determine where from.

Removed tensioner bracket, but it was not the freeze plug. Removed pump again and noticed the lower right bolt seemed to have dried coolant. Removed gasket from the block and could see dried coolant in the same area. Replaced gasket adding RTV to both sides(which I never do on this) and rtv to that bolt. The leak has stopped! I have never had or heard of a water pump bolt leaking, but I guess there's a first time for everything..

Just a thought.

 

O.

[twisty]

my old chevy truck had that issue, i used rtv on all the bolts to make sure. my dodge truck has one bolt that has water access, so you have to do it on at least that one