xt2005bonbon Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Sure. It may seems daunting at first but it really is not that bad. Another tip: -if you have not reached yet TDC, and you are on the compression stroke, and you begin adding air in the chamber, the crank will want to spin counter clockwise. -if you have passed TDC and you begin to add air in the chamber, the crank will want to spin clockwise. -if you are at TDC, and you add air in the chamber, the crank should not spin. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 That makes sense! The air pressure forcing the piston down. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Spark plug #3. Compression test to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Compression is 120 in cylinder 3 and 118 in cylinder 1. The needle jumped a few times to get up to those pressures in both cylinders when cranking the engine. I can't figure out for the life of me why I can't get the leak down to work. Leak down in cylinder 3 at top dead center is showing 0 % leakage. Which I know is not right. I even hooked up my air compressor at 90 psi regulated straight into cylinder 3. And there were no leaks. I know that's not right.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Well, I got 2.5% when my engine was cold, so not that far from 0% I guess... Did you try to perform the leakdown in cylinder 1, to compare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Yeah, same results in cylinder 1. By time I got to the leak down things did cool off a bit. Cylinder 3 spark plug is a PITA to get out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 I guess you could do that. But the method I described to you works just fine as well. You'll see when you try it. I used your method last night and it worked well as I didn't have to take the adapter hose out of the spark plug hole in order to find TDC! Like I said earlier, I am finding 0% leak in both cyl 1 & 3. I have the radiator cap off and the oil filler cap off. Is there any thing else I am missing. Is there something that could be keeping that pressure in the system? I vaguely remember reading something in another thread about doing something with the BOV to see if there's leaks through the intake. I just don't think that a 10 year old engine with 150k miles on it has 0 leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I used your method last night and it worked well as I didn't have to take the adapter hose out of the spark plug hole in order to find TDC! I am glad that worked for you as well. Like I said earlier, I am finding 0% leak in both cyl 1 & 3. I have the radiator cap off and the oil filler cap off. Is there any thing else I am missing. Is there something that could be keeping that pressure in the system? I vaguely remember reading something in another thread about doing something with the BOV to see if there's leaks through the intake. I just don't think that a 10 year old engine with 150k miles on it has 0 leaks. I am not sure. You really could not hear air hissing from anywhere? not even the rings? Usually the rings would still leak a little and you would hear it through the oil cap/dip stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 So I finally figured out the problem. I was using the same hose as the one for the compression test. This hose has a Schrader style valve which would let the air from the cylinder to the gauge but not let any air from the compressor into the cylinder! I can't believe this little valve caused me so much time and headache. After taking this valve out of the hose I tested the leak in cylinders 1 & 3. The engine was cold at this point. Cylinder 1 had about 8% leak, the air was coming out of the oil filler. Cylinder 3 had about 5% leak, again out of the oil filler. I put the spark plugs and coil packs back in and started the car warming it up to normal operating temp. After removing the coil pack and plug in cylinder 3, the leak was reduced to about 2.5-3% (still through the oil filler). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 I am sure you were like DOH! Well looks like you are in the clear my friend! I think that is a great leakdown reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 So, I finally had a CEL pop up this weekend. It's been about 3 months since I swapped the injectors. Before that, the CEL was tripping every couple of days. The code was P0301, which is a cylinder 1 misfire code. I'm guessing that the injector that I swapped from cylinder 3, and now is on cylinder 1 is the problem. I'll be picking up a new OEM injector from Subaru unless there's a better option out there. This is the 2nd injector I've replaced since buying the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 When did the CEL pop up? Was the car missing at idle? temperature related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 I felt the car start to miss a little at idle over the last couple drives, something I haven't felt since I switched the injectors. The engine was warm. The CEL popped up in stop and go traffic downtown. Not sure if I was stopped or under light acceleration in 1st or 2nd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I see. Actually, just re-reading your previous post sounds about right: meaning the injector in #1 is having issues. How many miles on them? Maybe cleaning it would fix the issue? LIke sending them to witchhunters or deatschwerks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Sp8s Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 They should be original injectors. I replaced Cyl #4 injector due to misfires at 100k miles. I'm now at 150k mi. What do you think the cost and leadtime is to send them out to have them cleaned? I'm looking at $160 from the dealership which I can have into the car tonight if I'm not too lazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 160 is a lot IMO. I bought one a couple of years ago and I think I paid 90 bucks. witchhunter is the least expensive. Turn around time is provided on their site I think. Go check them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDZ32 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I'm having this exact same issue, probably going to check it out this weekend, swap injectors and see what she does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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