need some direction and advice

[MrTris]

Ok, thanks for the input! which leads to my next question. given that it's my DD and only car,is it a realistic goal to obtain 300whp without having to Mod the shit out it? would the stock Block and pistons handle that type of increase or am I way off? forgive my ignorance...My passion is not backed by much subie knowledge.

 

First question: Why do you think you need 300hp?

[Max Capacity]

Read my sig, read my click here link. Most of what you asked is there.

 

300whp is a target, its just a talking point.

 

I have over 42,000 trouble free miles at 21psi on the stock ej257. It's all in the tune.

 

Call Mark Eastwood, 860 749 2903 you can tell him, Byron sent you. If you have everything planned out, my trusted repair shop can pull the engine, take 500ft down the street to Eastwoods. When it's rebuilt, they can put it back in.

 

 

 

Sounds like your TOB is not liking all that force on it.

[compsurge]

Don't forget fueling mods when you go to larger than a VF52 or 16g. An 18g on the OEM block will get you there, but I bet you'd be happy with a stage 2 tune as a DD.

[MrTris]

Don't forget fueling mods when you go to larger than a VF52 or 16g. An 18g on the OEM block will get you there, but I bet you'd be happy with a stage 2 tune as a DD.

 

This. Most people are perfectly happy with Stage 2. Good, honest power and decent gas mileage (when you behave, anyway) without breaking the bank (or itself!) .

[Jaybird2013]

First question: Why do you think you need 300hp?

Not so much that I need it, but to max's point it's more of a target. I not only want to revive this car (rebuilt engine and Turbo), but I would like to know if I wanted more hp( just threw 300 out there) that I could obtain more working in the parameters of a tune and some bolt-ons.

[MrTris]

Not so much that I need it, but to max's point it's more of a target. I not only want to revive this car (rebuilt engine and Turbo), but I would like to know if I wanted more hp( just threw 300 out there) that I could obtain more working in the parameters of a tune and some bolt-ons.

 

Then yes, yes you can achieve 300hp with "bolt ons" .

[Max Capacity]

I have said here many times, my 280whp is on a true reading Mustang Dyno. This dyno is a heart breaker. But when I put my foot in it, 280whp and 300ftlbs is a great feeling.

 

There has been talk that my car on a dynojet would be 300whp or a little more.

[Hoopaju]

They're identical, save for the piston dish. Same case halves, same rods, bearings, same pistons, just a different dish.

 

 

I've been researching this ALL day long and you're obviously knowledgeable and experienced enough to get the job done!

I have a 2005 Legacy GT Wagon 177k miles

Vin: 4S3BP686354314368

The head gasket blew a few days ago. (cyl 2) Despite some piece of paper the dealer provided from some out of state mechanic shop saying they were replaced a few months prior to my purchase of the vehicle about a year ago.

 

I've been pricing and comparing all day until I found this thread. I was at first intimidated by all that I need to do but with so much support on this site and advice I'm up for the challenge. I also want to dissolve my questionable ability and knowledge to take on such a project. I would rather learn and fail than fail at learning.

 

I have a few questions (and questions inside of questions) before I get too ahead of myself though.

1. Is my short and/or long blocks the same for LGT's 2005-2006,09,12?

2. Is my short and/or long blocks the same as the STI 2004-2006, 07?

a. If they are do I only need to replace the flywheel so it would be interchangeable? (the physical appearance on the outside do look different. Not just the red vs black intake manifolds but I also noticed the heater-core lines are vertical vs horizontal)

 

I only ask those questions for a quicker fix, then resell my block for reimbursement after fixing the current motor, if that becomes a viable option.

 

Otherwise I guess I will just remove my driver side head to have it resurfaced and make sure the valve seats look good and slap it back together. Unless of course there is a better, more knowledgeable direction to go? Sorry for the long post but thank you in advance for the help!

[compsurge]

If the head gasket failed a second time, I would definitely question the work performed previously. You want to check the heads for square. If you do not know how to do this, you can have a machine shop perform the inspection.

 

Think of in simpler terms. The engine longblock is comprised of two components: the shortblock and the heads. The transmissions of pretty much all Subarus will bolt together (5MT/6MT/5EAT/4EAT). The EJ25 flywheel/flexplate(automatic) will all bolt to any EJ25 engine as well since the crankshaft has the same bolt pattern. What won't work is a 6MT flywheel in a 5MT transmission bell housing (physical interference).

 

The stock shortblock of the 2.5GT is an EJ255 variety of the EJ25 series. The STi has an EJ257. The only difference is the piston (http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/). The shortblock on the non-turbo cars is an EJ253. The 253 is a fully open deck engine and is NOT compatible.

 

The EJ255/EJ257 shortblocks from 2005-2012 are the same. The heads are not. The emissions equipment was added in 2007/2008 as well as variable intake valve timing. Most all rebuilds of these engines will use rebuilt and resurfaced OEM heads with a new EJ257 shortblock.

 

 

Again, for all intents and purposes, the EJ255 (stock) and the EJ257 are the same. Don't overcomplicate it

 

Why do you need to swap your flywheel and what does that have to do with heater core lines as you described in your post?

 

If you engine is running fine aside from the head gasket, it may be more effective to repair what you have. That being said, head gasket failures are rare on the LGT. What leads you to this conclusion? Do you have white exhaust? Did you let it go a while before getting it diagnosed and/or repaired?

 

For OEM components, look at Heuberger Subaru.

 

For the "average Joe", I'm sure Max Capacity, MrTris, and myself will tell you the same story: get an EJ257 shortblock, rebuilt heads, a tune, and put a smile on your face and relax.

[Hoopaju]

I had always questioned the previous work only because of the amount of money spent on a car they got rid of just a few months later. It was a downgrade from my Saab 9.3 turbo v6 but living in Utah I felt the 4wd was worth the compromise.

 

To clarify, I didn't need or want to swap out my flywheel. The question was more about dropping an STI motor in the Legacy to get the car on the road sooner while I work on the legacy motor. I was asking if there were other physical differences between the motors that may prevent "physical interference".

 

The engine is not running, short story is radiator blew on its way to work. Had it towed back home, replaced the radiator and a needed oil change. (oil looked normal same with coolant) Car seemed to be working awesome after that for about 40 miles. The white smoke began on the way home. Went to start it the next day in hopes it had something to do with the recent climate changes. Drove the family to an eye appointment literally less than 2 miles round trip and it began to misfire - CEL w/ blinking cruise control - pulled into the garage with much more white smoke behind the car than the day prior. Turned it off and step out of the car with a puddle of coolant dripping out of the tail pipe. CEL Codes say random misfire in cyl 2 and misfire in cyl 2. Checked the oil and it was WAY overfull - Drained the oil which reminded me of a horse or cow taking a piss into the drop pan. Replaced that oil and replaced the coolant to see how it looked. The oil looked like a milk shake and the coolant just looked a little milky. I was going to try the "blue devil" treatment in hopes of a miracle but its first step is to flush the cooling system and the car simply didn't start so I could rinse heater core etc. The motor turns over which is good. I can do a compression test on cyl 2 but I think it will result in whats already obvious.

It's a 2005 2.5 turbo sport automatic transmission. I honestly expected if the head gaskets were to go it would have shown more warning than it had. My intention is to work on it over time while I save on gas taking the bus. Its been my DD approx 50m/day.

It did go through a lot of oil before this happened. Approx 1 quart very 800-1000 miles. Obviously a lot of peoples motors use up oil and with 177k miles I assumed that was normal but over these past two days of research its more than normal.

 

Thank you again for any advise. It appears I may want to look into doing a full rebuild.

[Max Capacity]

IMO you want to read my click here link.

 

If you got a STI engine the heads will not work with your ECU.

 

Get a ej257

have your heads rebuilt

have the machine shop install ARP head studs and give you back a long block.

[Hoopaju]

Thanks Max C & compsurge. I appreciate your time, knowledge, and advice!

[MrTris]

Hoop, that motor is toast. Order a shortblock and gasket kit from Heuberger, get the ARP headstuds and snag a catless uppipe. You'll get another 100k out of it.

[compsurge]

I really want to get a toasted shortblock and play with it on my milling machine. Who's up for sending me a sample?

[Hoopaju]

Thanks MrTris, my plan was to get a new ej257 short to get it back on the road again then start rebuilding my old block from the ground up.

[MrTris]

Thanks MrTris, my plan was to get a new ej257 short to get it back on the road again then start rebuilding my old block from the ground up.

 

That's a good plan, provided that the block itself doesn't need a lot of machine work. Otherwise, you might as well just buy another shortblock.

 

It's always good to have a spare block at the ready..

[MrTris]

OP, you have PM, but, let's wake up your topic a bit --

[Jaybird2013]

OP, I wanted to upload some of the pictures I requested that Subaru take when they had my Engine apart 3 months ago. #4 cylinder and pics of the scored cams ( driver's side I believe) Thoughts? are these heads reusable when I get to the point of the rebuild? keep in mind that I had Subaru button up the engine, because I couldn't afford the rebuild at the time. It's my DD and only car, so I have to drive it! Idle is smooth, no knocking ( never was), and its been running fine for the last 3 months.

I went 3100 miles on my last oci, added 2 quarts total over that time.

[keenster]

@jaybird

My cams have some minor minor "scoring" there. I think they'll be okay. They were not loose what so ever before I took them out. But I could be wrong. might help with lubing, I'm not sure. Need some help on here about that.

 

So on our cams, where they are secured down, are they suppose to be smooth or have tiny little grooves in them? I wouldn't even call them grooves.

[compsurge]

Is it scoring, surface imperfections, or factory grooves? Oiled surfaces are not polished smooth - they will have some form of surface finish to promote oil adhesion.

[Max Capacity]

If you've this far, I think you'll be fine. Keep up with the oil changes and use good oil.

[Jaybird2013]

@jaybird

My cams have some minor minor "scoring" there. I think they'll be okay. They were not loose what so ever before I took them out. But I could be wrong. might help with lubing, I'm not sure. Need some help on here about that.

 

So on our cams, where they are secured down, are they suppose to be smooth or have tiny little grooves in them? I wouldn't even call them grooves.

Keenster, I'm not sure man, in my pics they don't appear to be scored really bad. I do see scratches though. It has me wondering how truthful the dealership was about the severity of the damage, because they were pushing all along for a new motor from my warranty company who conveniently denied the claim, so as much as it sucks i got left holding the bag.

[keenster]

Is it scoring, surface imperfections, or factory grooves? Oiled surfaces are not polished smooth - they will have some form of surface finish to promote oil adhesion.

 

I thinks it's factory grooves honestly. I didn't think much of them when I saw them the other day. But once I read that post my brain started turning. Thanks for the reassurance. You're always there for me

 

Keenster, I'm not sure man, in my pics they don't appear to be scored really bad. I do see scratches though. It has me wondering how truthful the dealership was about the severity of the damage, because they were pushing all along for a new motor from my warranty company who conveniently denied the claim, so as much as it sucks i got left holding the bag.

 

 

I bought my leggy an extended warranty..... Worst 2 grand i ever spent. Day after I bought my car engine went. Warranty company fisted me so hard, they made a rotisserie out of me.

 

I would buy a shitbox beater. And save up for your new ej257 shorty.

 

Just keep changing that oil.

[Jaybird2013]

I thinks it's factory grooves honestly. I didn't think much of them when I saw them the other day. But once I read that post my brain started turning. Thanks for the reassurance. You're always there for me

 

 

 

 

I bought my leggy an extended warranty..... Worst 2 grand i ever spent. Day after I bought my car engine went. Warranty company fisted me so hard, they made a rotisserie out of me.

 

I would buy a shitbox beater. And save up for your new ej257 shorty.

 

Just keep changing that oil.

 

Oh Shit!!!! that's cold Hearted!!! Mine was on $500 and that is the only reason I didn't pursue it! I'm pissed at the dealership for sure, They literally threw my engine back together as quickly as possible and it shows. Two bolts are missing from where the Tranny bolts to the engine( I'll upload a picture over the weekend ), ac compressor mount bolt is missing, and It looks like ( I think anyway) that the evap canister was broken and they slabbed some red colored putty on it ( picture below) smh.. I paid for the reassembly, so you think if that some things were missing that at the very least let me know so that I could have had it taken care of.

I am seriously considering a beater car in a couple of months.

[compsurge]

Take it back.