Ein3000 Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 I installed a Perrin tmic I believe last Friday. Test running it I notice some vibration/noise in 1st and reverse when the clutch is almost fully engaged. No vibration or sound 2-5. Last night I was heading home and burnt the clutch a little. Enough to get a smell. At the next red light the clutch wouldn't go into gear at all. I pushed it into a parking lot and assumed it was stuck in gear. So I figured I try to start the car in 1st. I started it and as it was rolling I tried shifting in 2nd. It worked fine but could still smell clutch. Drove it home and let it sit over night. Drove it today fine but noticed there is more vibration and the noise is louder in 1st and reverse. I googled all kinds of stuff and am wondering if a bent clutch fork is really my problem. Thanks for any feedback even if it's how stupid I am for driving it like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ein3000 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Also now after the first 5-10 minutes of driving the noise and vibration tend is disappear, but can still happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted October 20, 2014 I Donated Too Share Posted October 20, 2014 Yes. Clutch issue. This is not related to the TMIC you just installed. Time to pull the gearbox and replace the clutch... if clutch fork is bent or broken then you'll change that too but regardless, you'll put a new clutch in because taking the gearbox out is a lot of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 When I initially installed my Perrin TMIC, I noticed vibration in the both the clutch and the brake pedal. Reason: The IC was resting, slightly, on the banjo bolt for the clutch slave cylinder, and also on the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap, so harmonic frequencies were being transmitted through the IC to the firewall and to the pedals. Within a few days, this resolved itself as the IC aluminum clearanced itself around the banjo bolt and settled. That said, it does sound like you have clutch TOB issues at best or clutch fork issues at worst. It could still be internal to your transmission in the shift fork area. Can you shift the trans with the engine off and clutch disengaged? If so, start with the clutch and then work backwards through the trans. The fact that you had burnt-clutch-smell, means that something isn't right, likely in the clutch itself. Hopefully it's something simple, and you'll be back on the road soon. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ein3000 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Thanks for the responses. It shifts fine with the clutch disengaged. I believe the clutch is going, it slipped last night in 4th gear. Not looking forward to replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ein3000 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Any idea where I can get a Southbend stage 3 for a good price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Check with our vendors. Infamous may carry them, others may if Mike doesn't. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Think about a SMFW to, stay with a steel FW. DO NOT put a LWFW in the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ein3000 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 The Southbend comes with a fw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 As long as it's a steel standard flywheel, and not an aluminum LWFW, it should be fine. Too light and you risk pulling CELs all the time. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ein3000 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Ahh ok, I just looked it up, steel single mass. Thanks guys, still driving on it. Just get clutch chatter in 1st. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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