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Any chance to make:

1) a cheaper "info panel relocation bracket"? $100+ from japan seems a little insane

2) a cheaper double din console panel (i.e. a new version of the cubby frame that makes it easier to mount a tablet)? http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_54_60&products_id=108

 

Just some wild ideas.

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Any chance to make:

1) a cheaper "info panel relocation bracket"? $100+ from japan seems a little insane

2) a cheaper double din console panel (i.e. a new version of the cubby frame that makes it easier to mount a tablet)? http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_54_60&products_id=108

 

Just some wild ideas.

Probably to both. I'll talk with Kred.

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Just wanted to chime in and say, if you ever need any help modelling stuff, I'd be down. I mainly use blender, but I'm sure that can be converted to whatever you're working in. Your meshes look a bit messy, but obviously they are functional (and probably generated by the cad program?). Would be cool to have smooth transitions on the gauge pod (which would have to be sanded I'm sure, given your printers resolution). Edited by Leviman
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Just wanted to chime in and say, if you ever need any help modelling stuff, I'd be down. I mainly use blender, but I'm sure that can be converted to whatever you're working in. Your meshes look a bit messy, but obviously they are functional (and probably generated by the cad program?). Would be cool to have smooth transitions on the gauge pod (which would have to be sanded I'm sure, given your printers resolution).

 

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. I'm using sketch up for true simple stuff. I do need someone to work on a third brake delete if you want to take that on.

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Probably to both. I'll talk with Kred.

 

Just to further elaborate: perhaps the new frame could take the louvers from the existing bezel/frame, and then add kind of a slot for the tablet to slide in from the top when removed? Maybe 1/2" thickness or so that we can pad with foam tape? And have the slot stick out 1/4-1/2" from each side?

 

Not sure I'm being clear, but that was my idea, anyway. That way, I easily have a starting point for a tablet install and don't need a case for it plus L-brackets to mount it to "something". Basically, take off the vents, and add an "L" to each end facing inwards running from bottom to top, with a stop at the bottom. The first part of the L would be parallel to the vents, from front (of the bezel) towards the back, and then the second leg would be from outside to inside, so the L's face each other.

 

I'll probably have to draw a picture, but the idea is: take out the whole bezel/vent frame, slide the tablet in from the top, maybe with a bit of foam since not all tablets are the same width, and then drill/cut holes into the L's where you need to get at stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Sorry for the lack of updates. The dash rattle stopper is still rocking strong in my car. I am in the process of upgrading printers to a dual extruder setup with a heated platform so I can do ABS or PLA. Production will be down for about a week during the switch. The cubby gauge pos is ready for production so once the new printer is here and dialed in, production will begin.
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Where does this dash rattle piece go? I'm a little surprised that our LGT with 138K on it doesn't seem to have any rattles of any kind coming from the dash area which so many people seem to experience.

The center console elbow rest now, that thing irritates the living piss out of me with it's buzzing... but it seems to do it less in the "forward up" position. Regardless, other than that (and the original wheel bearings, and the super crappy tires) the interior is pretty quiet.

Edited by JBear
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Where does this dash rattle piece go? I'm a little surprised that our LGT with 138K on it doesn't seem to have any rattles of any kind coming from the dash area which so many people seem to experience.

The center console elbow rest now, that thing irritates the living piss out of me with it's buzzing... but it seems to do it less in the "forward up" position. Regardless, other than that (and the original wheel bearings, and the super crappy tires) the interior is pretty quiet.

 

The dash rattle stopper is a rather inelegant solution but it works. It is a small piece of plastic that gets crammed between dash and window just to the right of the VIN tag.

 

The new printer is about a week out, and i will have the option to print in PLA or ABS and it has dual extruders. I'll be back up and running ASAP!

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Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. I'm using sketch up for true simple stuff. I do need someone to work on a third brake delete if you want to take that on.

 

Third brake as in third brake light? May be a bit tricky, id need a bit of information on dimensions and profiles and stuff, as I don't have a sedan any more. Or just a part in hand that i could take measurements from. Also I'd need info on how your printer interprets files, like what format, how things should be oriented, etc.

Edited by Leviman
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