jmacgreg Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 The car: 2005 Legacy GT automatic w/50,000 miles (wife's car - very lightly driven) The Problem: Recurring Brake "chattering" at highway speeds. First occurred at around 25k miles. Replaced rotors and pads and all caliper hardware at 30k. Recurred again at 35k miles. Replaced pads & resurfaced rotors (rotors were still true but lightly resurfaced anyway to help seat new pads) at 40k miles. Problem has recurred again at 50k miles. The pads (EBC) still have a LOT of life left and the rotors don't show any glazing or "hot spots." I'm at a loss to figure out what the issue is. I had an original generation Legacy Wagon and did several brake jobs up to the 200k mile mark and NEVER saw a similar problem on that car - only replacements due to wear. My question: Is there some "inherent" problem with the calipers on this generation Legacy that causes chatter? I don't want to add a $2k "big brake" kit to a car that isn't driven hard or will ever see a track. I just want to make it safe for my wife and don't want to repeat brake jobs at 8k increments. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06silvarubiLGT Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 front control arm bushings are probably bad, causes the wheel to go back and forth a little bit in the wheel well.. That would be my guess, or just crappy rotors, these things brake real hard when you want them too.. Any emergency stops? Vehicle sit for a long time? you wont need a big brake kit.. just go on ebay/or your favorite vendor- get yourself some powerstop slotted rotors and a nice set of pads, bleed out all the old fluid, clean and lube all the slides- cheap option that is also an upgrade over the OE stuff.. quite a few of us are running some sort of this variation and have had no issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Depending on the pads, some will need to be rebedded because rotors will start to glaze. Need to get the rotors up to normal breaking temps (several stop/go), then do a few 60 to 10 mph stops with moderate to firm breaking pressure. I would need to do this about twice a year, and the breaking feels a whole lot better afterwards. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Stop using cheap pads. The issue is caused by the pads not shedding the dust. The dust builds up on the rotor. You need to get the rotor's hot to clean them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 LGT Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Stop using cheap pads. The issue is caused by the pads not shedding the dust. The dust builds up on the rotor. You need to get the rotor's hot to clean them. Any advice on how to do this? I'm looking to replace the front brake pads shortly and need to get the gunk the OEM pads have built up on the rotors off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Any advice on how to do this? I'm looking to replace the front brake pads shortly and need to get the gunk the OEM pads have built up on the rotors off. Depending on the pads, some will need to be rebedded because rotors will start to glaze. Need to get the rotors up to normal breaking temps (several stop/go), then do a few 60 to 10 mph stops with moderate to firm breaking pressure. I would need to do this about twice a year, and the breaking feels a whole lot better afterwards. Just mention how in the post above. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 I use Hawk pads from Mike at www.AZPinstalls.com lot's of guy's here have good luck with Centric pads and rotors too. KNSBrakes, he's here too somewhere. The main thing I've learned is that when you start to feel a little shimmy, you need to stop driving like you normally do and stand on the brakes a few times. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 I always thought EBC pads were supposed to be pretty decent? I don't know much about suspensions, but I would look into what 06silvarubiLGT said. My guess is that maybe the pads aren't being bedded properly. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06silvarubiLGT Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 there was another thread on here.. I think it was AWDbeefcake from CT that had the same reoccuring pulsations- but I think his was with a BBK, ended up being bad LCA bushings.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmacgreg Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Thanks for the advice. The rotors are Centric and the Pads are EBC (not cheap). The control arm bushings check out ok. I think I'll try cleaning up the rotors and replacing the pads with another brand and see what happens. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll consider some sort of brake upgrade as long as it doesn't involve changing wheels or emptying my wallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Have done the rebedding process correctly ? With go parts like you have, after the rebedding process you should be fine. I find that because of stop and go traffic on the highway at times, I need to rebed my Hawk pads too. The best thing to do. Drive the car down the Mt Washington Auto Road. My wagons brakes felt great after that... for a few weeks. Hawk pads DBA4000 slotted rotors. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmacgreg Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Yes, I "rebed" the brakes regularly, but the improvement in braking is very temporary ---- too temporary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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