Plug n Play Aux-in mod for 2005 6cd radios

[mbacis]

Yeah, I pulled mine apart again tonight to install a GLI that I bought from radioshack. As I finished putting it back together I wished I had taken pics of the procedure/setup. Sorry. I just have a Belkin TuneBase plugged into the lighter plug and it holds/charges my iPod as well as provides an aux. out. I run my cord straight into it.

 

The GLI a bought came with a ~2" length 1/8" plug to RCA cord which I used to go from Jazzy's board to the GLI (purposely switched L/R channels). The other end of it is a long RCA cord that I will run to a RCA to 1/8" plug cord, and then into my Belkin TuneBase. I've assembled the radio, but I'm waiting until tomorrow to install/test. I'll give an update then.

 

I'm gonna look into drilling a hole in the ashtray to mount an input jack that I can plug in and out of. Hopefully I don't lose too much/any signal due to my repeated RCA to 1/8" plug conversions. I didn't want to have to wait for the 1/8" plug GLI from Crutchfield. Must have instant gratification.

 

Oh, and those screws used throughout the radio are some of the softest screws I've ever used, especially the faceplate screws. I had to be extremely careful not to strip them.

[Francis]

Yes, I have my iPod connected to a Belkin Auto Kit which is plugged into the 12V outlet in the storage cubby. I simply drilled a hole through the bottom of the cubby, cut a hole in the carpet and ran the mini-jack cable up to the Auto Kit. I also zip-tied the cable to existing cables under the center console box.

 

I prefer this set up because it allows me to store both the iPod, Auto Kit and cables out of sight in the cubby.

 

Ken

Thanks Ken. I will attempt to do it the same way.

Francis

[LGT Chris]

Just got my installed! I love it! Thanks Jazzy!

 

I ended up putting in a GLI I got from Radio Shack, along with a coupler and 3' 1/8" to RCA patch cable to go from the interface board to the GLI, and then another coupler and a 6' RCA to 1/8" patch cable to go from the GLI to my iPod. So an extra $45 in parts later (I went with the gold connectors) and I'm good to go.

 

Took me about 2 hours going very slow and testing a couple of times before putting everything back together. No screw issues, no wiring issues, worked first time. I routed the 6' patch cable from just under the shifter cover, under the center console, and up through a hole I drilled just next to the 12v outlet in the center storage cubbie. I have enough slack to position the iPod pretty much anywhere.

 

Couple of things about the installation.

 

(a) Depending on how you wire, there is no need to remove the handbrake cover or the console between the seats. The screws holding down the rear of the side trim were exposed just removing the shift knob and poping the shift console trip up. This may be a manual only thing though. :shrug:

 

(b) If you do remove this center console, I had a real bitch of a time getting the two white plastic clips at the front removed to slide back into the grooves for re-installation. I ended up using a eye glasses screwdriver to pry under the lowest part and trigger the release. Unfortunately, if you want a tight fit on the front of the console, you are going to have to tackle this one. Getting this all back together was what took me the longest. The actual board installation was a snap and nicely detailed in the instructions.

 

CJ

[jazzymt]

(a) Depending on how you wire, there is no need to remove the handbrake cover or the console between the seats. The screws holding down the rear of the side trim were exposed just removing the shift knob and poping the shift console trip up. This may be a manual only thing though. :shrug:

I don't know how much easier this is for manuals, but I think it's also *possible* with autos. The thing is, with only the gap revealed by removing the chrome ring, you have terrible leverage to pop up the shifter console from the gap and very little to no room to pop it up from the back.

 

Removing the cubby/console is simply to provide access to the edges so you can pop it up...dunno if there's a better way...probably, but it worked for me & haven't had problems with the white plastic rivets that join it to the shifter console that you did. Once I have the back two screws out, I just gripped the whole thing at the front and yanked up & they popped out...they went back in w/o a problem. I've done this 4 or 5 times now & they seem to be holding up just fine.

 

A N Y way...glad it works well for ya.

[LGT Chris]

I don't know how much easier this is for manuals, but I think it's also *possible* with autos. The thing is, with only the gap revealed by removing the chrome ring, you have terrible leverage to pop up the shifter console from the gap and very little to no room to pop it up from the back.

 

Removing the cubby/console is simply to provide access to the edges so you can pop it up...dunno if there's a better way...probably, but it worked for me & haven't had problems with the white plastic rivets that join it to the shifter console that you did. Once I have the back two screws out, I just gripped the whole thing at the front and yanked up & they popped out...they went back in w/o a problem. I've done this 4 or 5 times now & they seem to be holding up just fine.

 

Ok, so it sounds like it is needed for automatics and not manuals. On 5MT models, you just need to pop the cover up by gripping around where the boot attaches. But by the photos, I see what you mean.

 

WRT the white rivets, turns out they slipped off the console when I took it off. After I saw how much it was flexing when I was trying to just pull, I just slid it to the right a bit and both popped off. Unfortunately, it doesn't easily go back on the same way.

 

Thanks again for a great mod!

 

CJ

[c_hunter]

I don't know how much easier this is for manuals, but I think it's also *possible* with autos. The thing is, with only the gap revealed by removing the chrome ring, you have terrible leverage to pop up the shifter console from the gap and very little to no room to pop it up from the back.

 

 

You can definitely avoid taking out the armrest/bin part of the console, even on cars with auto trans. Once you lift the chrome ring off, take an allen-wrench and stick it in the gap around the shifter, and use that to pull up the trim bezel. Works great. I believe we made a note of this in one of the other audio install topics about a year ago. It's definitely a lot of extra unnecessary work to pull the whole armrest/bin part.

 

Craig

[jazzymt]

Well, next time I have to take out the radio, I may try that. It sounds like a good shortcut. I worry a bit about other people trying to use screwdrivers n such and cracking or scratching the plastic though, so I think i'll leave the instructions with the "extra" steps for now... Any other issues with installs? I assume a few more people probably tried it this weekend..?

 

I built several extra boards this weekend to have some "in stock" for future orders...assuming there are any.. I need more boxes though, ironically enough someone else in town seems to be going around buying all the dern boxes! Hehe. Ah well. Anyway, I'm finally all caught up on orders & have plenty more parts if anyone's still thinkin about it.

 

I hope you all had a good weekend...and those of you down south faired the bad weather alright.

[ProjectS15]

oh we're texan's we took it alright, thanks for your concern

ill keep you updated on when i get the board

 

can ya post photos of how ya have it set up i would like to see some of your ideas

so i can think about how im gonna set mines up

[rony]

Installed and works great!!!

 

I added a 1/8 stereo jack inside my arm rest by the power outlet, I hate hanging cables.

 

Also, I ran a ground wire from the headunit to the power outlet ground to hopefully avoid ground loops when I start using my Ipod...

 

Hopefully, I will get my IPod Nano this week..

[myUsername]

Got mine installed tonight and it works great. As soon as I got home from a weekend trip from Carmel/Monterey, which was a 3 hour drive, I dove right in with the installation. I had two problems, one was my own stupidity.

 

First problem was getting 4 of the 8 bracket screws stripped. Even with a brand new phillips #2 bit and brute force, I managed to get them stripped to a point that no other tools of mine can get them off. To get the top cover off, I bent the top part of the brackets to get enough clearance for the cover to be lifted off. After getting the board and the top cover installed, I just bent the brackets back to their original positions.

 

Problem 2's causes were fatigue, stupidity, excitement, and a thread from the Interior/Audio section. After getting everything put back and testing the radio with my MP3 player, I remembered the thread about car not starting after a stereo install. So I tried starting my car, and lo and behold, it wouldn't start. I tried cranking it 4 or 5 times to no avail. Panic started kicking. I thought that a $35 mod will now cost me who knows how much to get my ecu replaced. Then, when I tried reaching for the instructions, I saw that the shifter was on drive...stupid me forgot to put it back on park after getting the panel reinstalled. I put it on neutral, and car started like a dream. I guess that's another reason I should've went with a 5mt .

[Spinjockey]

Well I can confirm that it works with the MP3/VDC CD version! The board looks the same as yours.

Install went really well, those instructions are much clearer then anything else I've seen for taking the dash apart. The only thing I'd note is that it appeioars that radio/amp ribbon connector is single sided so I don't think you can screw that connection up (because the ribbons are single sided as well). As for the ribbon from the CD to adaptor as long as it's not twisted it's in there fine.

Also where's everyone putting their cables? When I find a small mini-jack I was going to try to find a place to put it inside the center consol.

[Ken S]

Also where's everyone putting their cables? When I find a small mini-jack I was going to try to find a place to put it inside the center consol.

 

I ran a single 6' cable from the back of the HU, down the under the ashtray, along the shift selector and under the center box. I drilled a hole in the storage compartment, cut a small hole in the mat and ran the cord up that way. I also zip-tied the cable along the power cable that runs under the center box.

 

Ken

[foghat]

I ran a single 6' cable from the back of the HU, down the under the ashtray, along the shift selector and under the center box. I drilled a hole in the storage compartment, cut a small hole in the mat and ran the cord up that way. I also zip-tied the cable along the power cable that runs under the center box.

 

Ken

 

 

I wonder if everyone with a ground loop problem is running their audio signal wires next to power wires? That would explain a lot of humming or/and engine noise coming though the speakers. If signal and power wires have to intersect, it must be at a 90 degree angle. Never run the two types of wires in parallel.

[rony]

Farthest you can get the signal from the power is about 6 inches. But it is definatly doable.

[Ken S]

I wonder if everyone with a ground loop problem is running their audio signal wires next to power wires? That would explain a lot of humming or/and engine noise coming though the speakers. If signal and power wires have to intersect, it must be at a 90 degree angle. Never run the two types of wires in parallel.

 

No ground loop problem with my setup even though I ran the audio cable along the power line. And I am charging my iPod using the accessory outlet in the cubby.

 

Ken

[foghat]

I didn't mean that everyone will have this problem, I simply meant it as a starting point for his problems. Not everyone is using the same wires and some may be sheilded better then others, just because your system is working fine doesn't mean that someone else might have this problem.

[kmartin]

According to Subaru, the audio unit in the Tribeca is a Panasonic P-136. I have the 6-disc CD changer built in as well. Will this board work in my B9?

 

Thx!

 

-Karen in AZ-

[jazzymt]

According to Subaru, the audio unit in the Tribeca is a Panasonic P-136. I have the 6-disc CD changer built in as well. Will this board work in my B9?

 

Thx!

 

-Karen in AZ-

Well...I won't say it's impossible, but I kind of doubt it unfortunately. I don't have the slightest idea what the innards of the B9 HU look like, so I really just don't know. I thought the B9 came w/aux-in though?

[kmartin]

Well...I won't say it's impossible, but I kind of doubt it unfortunately. I don't have the slightest idea what the innards of the B9 HU look like, so I really just don't know. I thought the B9 came w/aux-in though?

 

Actually the only Aux-in option was if you bought the DVD player, and then it was in the back seat for headphones. I have the audio wiring diagrams for the Tribeca, if you'd like them. Email me at kamartin_no_spam@cox.net (remove the obvious first) and I'll send you what I have.

 

Thx! -Karen-

[c_hunter]

I wonder if everyone with a ground loop problem is running their audio signal wires next to power wires? That would explain a lot of humming or/and engine noise coming though the speakers. If signal and power wires have to intersect, it must be at a 90 degree angle. Never run the two types of wires in parallel.

 

 

Well, it's possible to get general noise from power lines, but it would not be a ground loop problem. You only get that from multiple different and/or isolated ground points. Ground loop problems are very common with portable devices which have their own separate ground. Uniting that with the stereo/vehicle ground almost always results in a ground loop, especially if you also power/charge the device.

 

Craig

[jazzymt]

I have another crazy idea about why some are experiencing a ground loop problem. It's possible that the adapters some people are using do not tie the regulated ground back to the vehicle ground, but leave it floating...and others tie the regulated voltage back to vehicle ground. So even though the adapter is grounded, the "ground" you're plugging into your aux device possibly isn't. What brand / model adapters are people using & for what? Both with & without GL noise?

 

Personally, I'm using the power adapter that came with my Roady2 XM unit, hardwired to the back of the cigarette lighter. No noise...

[Francis]

I received my aux-in unit it the mail today. It looks great! Thanks very much.

 

Stupid question, the RCA mini-jack does not plug all the way in the aux-in, it still has about 1/8" exposed. Is this a problem? Should I attempt to cover this with tape?

[jazzymt]

I received my aux-in unit it the mail today. It looks great! Thanks very much.

 

Stupid question, the RCA mini-jack does not plug all the way in the aux-in, it still has about 1/8" exposed. Is this a problem? Should I attempt to cover this with tape?

The stereo jack should plug in completely. If it's not in all the way flush, it's not in right. Is the heatshrink getting in the way? Depending on the size of your jack it may be necessary to cut more heatshrink off.

[foghat]

I recieved mine today in the mail at 4:30 and was cleaning up the garage by 7:00. I love it, I cant wait til the next good long trip.

 

thanks again.

[Rollin Wes]

I have another crazy idea about why some are experiencing a ground loop problem. It's possible that the adapters some people are using do not tie the regulated ground back to the vehicle ground, but leave it floating...and others tie the regulated voltage back to vehicle ground. So even though the adapter is grounded, the "ground" you're plugging into your aux device possibly isn't. What brand / model adapters are people using & for what? Both with & without GL noise?

 

Personally, I'm using the power adapter that came with my Roady2 XM unit, hardwired to the back of the cigarette lighter. No noise...

 

I'm using the same setup and I am not having a problem either.