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Clutch slipping after trans install -- what caused?


caramall2

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My front diff was shot so I had a local shop install a whole used transmission (but not a new clutch). Everything seemed great but the next day my clutch started slipping (typical high torque, lower rpm (3k) pulls under load).

 

The clutch didn't come out during the trans swap. It has about 12k but it is a FX350 (just seems many complaining about these going early (at least fx300s)). Just strange that I had zero slippage before the swap.

 

1). Is there any adjustment that could be wrong (it's hydraulic so not sure what adjustment there is)? The engagement point is higher than before but I don't think that would prevent it from engaging fully, correct?

 

2). Could fluid or something have gotten on the clutch? Would that just "burn off"?

 

3) other?

 

Of course now wish I had put in a new clutch :-0. Labor is a lot.

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Make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork correctly. You can remove the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot and look inside and make sure the fork is positioned correctly.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'm also getting a P852 code which is the park neutral switch input Circuit high.

 

If the fork wasn't being placed correctly, wouldn't it just not fully disengage but it would fully engaged? Or could it work both ways?I'm Not real smart on that.

 

Thanks

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^ like he said, with the history of these clutches lasting about 15,000 miles. I was just guessing and hoping for the simple fix.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork correctly. You can remove the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot and look inside and make sure the fork is positioned correctly.

 

Maybe you have something. Trans guys said fork hitting case. I took pic. They're thinking maybe it's not letting clutch engage fully. They're concerned there may be a difference in my clutch vs one installed, even though both from 2005 LGT. They're going to take it back apart....more to follow.

393076066_clutchfork.JPG.0b024b1057873d1ad10456f41f9290f8.JPG

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Make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork correctly. You can remove the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot and look inside and make sure the fork is positioned correctly.

 

this is exactly what the cause of my clutch issues were after putting a new one in.

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So they think maybe the sleeve on the thrust bearing wasn't far enough back and made fork hit front and not fully engage clutch plates. They tapped it back about 1/16" of an inch and they said the ball knob that the fork rotates on was slightly longer or shorter on one trans compared to the other (weird...both from 2005 LGT).

 

After looking at the clutch plate and measuring thickness, it's slightly below manufacuter recommendation (0.275 minimum vs mine is 0.250). So,

 

1) do I get a new plate from Clutchmasters while everything is torn apart (they want like $320 :-0) or do I buy a whole new Spec clutch for something like $600?

 

2) is the TSK3 thrust bearing an important upgrade to keep or should I just throw in a new stock bearing and remove the sleeve?

 

I need to order pronto.

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The ID of the TOB I believe are the same. I'm replacing mine with the TOB that came with my Spec 2 clutch kit. I had Mike at AZP send a TSK3 TOB which I put on back with the ej257. Trannys out of the car now and I'll replace the TOB.

 

$320 is a lot less then 600, its your money.

 

 

There is only one pivot ball.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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