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STiraptor's 2007 Legacy GT Limited


STidriver86

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Right...so...I've now been the owner of this car for 18 months. I love this thing! New photos below.

 

Since I've become the owner, it's gotten a lot of attention from my bank account. It's been a project car from the start. But I love it for what it is. Slowly gets new improvements as I can afford them.

 

THE MODS LIST:

 

Motor Rebuild (after water pump failure at 80k):

 

  • Procom Racing OEM+ Short Block (STi EJ25)
  • ARP 2000 Head Studs
  • Manley Forged Drop-In Pistons
  • Manley Race Flo 37mm Intake Valves
  • Manley Race Master 33mm Exhaust Valves
  • STi Forged Crankshaft
  • STi Forged Piston Rods
  • Killer B Oil Pickup
  • Machined/Resurfaced/Refurbished Heads

 

POWER

 

  • COBB Turbo-Back Exhaust w/ Nameless Tips (?)
  • Tomei EL Headers. Because racecar.
  • Tomei Uppipe
  • COBB Intake
  • Blousch 440XT (8 cm inlet) Turbocharger
  • InjectorDynamics ID1000 Fuel Injectors
  • Gimmick Motorsports Turbo Inlet
  • COBB AFTA MAF
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • WBR Performance 36-inch Core FMIC
  • GrimmSpeed 3-Port EBCS
  • Omni-Power 4 bar MAP sensor

 

COOLING & SENSORS

 

  • Gimmick Motorsports Radiator
  • Mishimoto Radiator Hoses
  • COBB Shrouds
  • IAG Air-Oil Separator (Competition Series)

 

SUSPENSION

 

  • ISC Thrust Bearings
  • COBB Front & Rear Sway Bars
  • R-Rev Front & GT-Spec Rear Tower Strut Braces
  • Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit
  • Whiteline Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
  • Whiteline Control Arm Bushings

 

DRIVETRAIN

 

  • COBB Short Shifter
  • COBB Bushings
  • Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
  • ALT Sek-Tor SF-601 Forged Wheels (18" x 8") wrapped in Continental ExtremeContact DWS06s (UPDATE: 2008 Stock WRX Alloys for Winter (17" x 7") with Continental ExtremeWinterContacts)
  • Hawk HPS Brake Pads (or Hawk HP+ pads for special occasions)
  • DBA 4000 T3 Slotted Brake Rotors
  • Goodridge Stainless Brake Lines

 

EXTERIOR

 

  • Lamin-X Paint Protection Kit
  • Lamin-X Fog Overlays
  • R-Rev CF JDM-Style Grill w/ Red Subaru Emblem
  • GrafxWerks JDM-Style "L7" Rear Emblem Overlay

 

Tuned By Lou Lieberman at Procom Racing, Toms River, NJ

 

Latest Dyno Numbers (April 22, 2016 on a Mustang AWD Dyno):

 

367 hp / 370 tq @ 21 PSI

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I'd have them at least run a compression check or better a leak down. I prefer to buy my cars unmodified so I have a little better history with them. Anyone that mods a car tends to drive it as such. Seen far too many modded cars that were beat to death and then resold to the next poor guy.

 

If all checks out and the engine and trans is healthy and no leaks then I'd talk numbers.

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Thanks, starion. I would have preferred an unmodified car or a lightly modified one, but I'll take this. It won't be my Daily Driver. Probably just a local car and maybe a trip to the beach with friends.

 

I'll have my mechanic take a look at it when we get it. It had been sitting for a while so I think everything was cold. The turbo came to life at higher RPMs, which doesn't surprise me in the least.

 

In the meantime, just counting down the days until I can go drive it home.

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I had heard a little about ringland failures, and I'll get a better idea once I get it on Saturday. If it's a problem for the car I'll sort it out then. I know that sounds like a lazy answer but that's the situation I'm in at the moment. As for the AP, I have a COBB AP v2 at home, so that will help me diagnose any potential issues with the car.
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I had heard a little about ringland failures, and I'll get a better idea once I get it on Saturday. If it's a problem for the car I'll sort it out then. I know that sounds like a lazy answer but that's the situation I'm in at the moment. As for the AP, I have a COBB AP v2 at home, so that will help me diagnose any potential issues with the car.

 

Hey man,

 

I live nearby Selden Motors and have driven past this car a million times, I actually just bought an 08 Legacy GT in August so I was actively looking at cars and this is one that popped up on my radar, especially because it is the closest and lowest priced LGT to me. However this one I just couldn't bring myself to test drive or even check out at the dealership, I wanted a near stock car if possible and even more so this is my first fast car so I didn't want anything too crazy from the start.

 

I really suggest you hold off on taking this car home until you get a compression test done to the car, and while you may have heard of ringland failure it is not something that you want to "sort out" after you buy the car. I had this same philosophy with my car but to a much lesser extent. Mainly with visual stuff I figured whatever the car is cheap enough I'll just replace it later (one seatbelt is kinda ripped, vinyl door sills have dog nail marks, door dings etc). All that is fine but ringland failure, and while I am not as knowledgeable as most of these guys, I know that is not something you want to happen. This will cost a couple thousand dollars at least to fix. Maybe you're okay with this but force Selden Motors to at least do a compression test/leakdown. Or if you need to pay for it yourself then do so. Selden has been sitting on this car for a while it was previously listed at like $18 or 19k and has gone down to less than $15k since but they are trying to get top dollar for this car. Back in June I asked what their bottom dollar was and they said $15,995 which obviously turned out to be false since it was up for $14,995 recently. But please do yourself a favor and push for the compression test. If Selden refuses then something fishy might be going on.

 

Was there anything in terms of warranty that you could purchase? Or did they not offer anything with this vehicle because of modifications?

 

Also, would you mind if I asked how much you agreed to pay for this vehicle? I recently bought my bone stock (minus the factory short throw shifter) 08 LGT limited 5speed manual with 63k miles for $14,500. Look for a QSM Legacy GT when you pick it up, I think I may be the only one in town!

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Hey man,

 

I live nearby Selden Motors and have driven past this car a million times, I actually just bought an 08 Legacy GT in August so I was actively looking at cars and this is one that popped up on my radar, especially because it is the closest and lowest priced LGT to me. However this one I just couldn't bring myself to test drive or even check out at the dealership, I wanted a near stock car if possible and even more so this is my first fast car so I didn't want anything too crazy from the start.

 

I really suggest you hold off on taking this car home until you get a compression test done to the car, and while you may have heard of ringland failure it is not something that you want to "sort out" after you buy the car. I had this same philosophy with my car but to a much lesser extent. Mainly with visual stuff I figured whatever the car is cheap enough I'll just replace it later (one seatbelt is kinda ripped, vinyl door sills have dog nail marks, door dings etc). All that is fine but ringland failure, and while I am not as knowledgeable as most of these guys, I know that is not something you want to happen. This will cost a couple thousand dollars at least to fix. Maybe you're okay with this but force Selden Motors to at least do a compression test/leakdown. Or if you need to pay for it yourself then do so. Selden has been sitting on this car for a while it was previously listed at like $18 or 19k and has gone down to less than $15k since but they are trying to get top dollar for this car. Back in June I asked what their bottom dollar was and they said $15,995 which obviously turned out to be false since it was up for $14,995 recently. But please do yourself a favor and push for the compression test. If Selden refuses then something fishy might be going on.

 

Was there anything in terms of warranty that you could purchase? Or did they not offer anything with this vehicle because of modifications?

 

Also, would you mind if I asked how much you agreed to pay for this vehicle? I recently bought my bone stock (minus the factory short throw shifter) 08 LGT limited 5speed manual with 63k miles for $14,500. Look for a QSM Legacy GT when you pick it up, I think I may be the only one in town!

 

Thanks for the advice, 08qsm.

 

I have asked Selden to perform the compression and leakdown tests. They're going to see if their service guys can do that. We paid $14750 for the car, plus taxes and fees since we're taking it back to NJ.

 

The car is CarFax certified as being in good working order with no mechanical defects, so I'm hoping that fact alone will cover it. As for warranties, I don't believe they offered us one, probably because of the reasons you mentioned.

 

As for your Legacy, I'll keep an eye out. You'll hear mine before you see it. The cat-back system is a serious one.

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Thanks for the advice, 08qsm.

 

I have asked Selden to perform the compression and leakdown tests. They're going to see if their service guys can do that. We paid $14750 for the car, plus taxes and fees since we're taking it back to NJ.

 

The car is CarFax certified as being in good working order with no mechanical defects, so I'm hoping that fact alone will cover it. As for warranties, I don't believe they offered us one, probably because of the reasons you mentioned.

 

As for your Legacy, I'll keep an eye out. You'll hear mine before you see it. The cat-back system is a serious one.

 

Perfect! I'm glad to hear they'll be doing the compression and leakdown tests. Even just for peace of mind it's nice to know, I wish I had the time to ask the dealership to do one on mine as well. But like you, some people wanted to look at the car after me, someone even test drove it as I was talking to the dealer! Had to make moves quick.

 

I think you got it for a great price then! When they told me $15,995 I figured they were getting to their lowest number, so $14750 is awesome.

 

I'll keep an ear out for it on Saturday when you pick it up! Hopefully your area is more open than mine, I hate city driving! Legacy GT's are too much fun I just want to drive damnit

 

Enjoy the car!

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Perfect! I'm glad to hear they'll be doing the compression and leakdown tests. Even just for peace of mind it's nice to know, I wish I had the time to ask the dealership to do one on mine as well. But like you, some people wanted to look at the car after me, someone even test drove it as I was talking to the dealer! Had to make moves quick.

 

I think you got it for a great price then! When they told me $15,995 I figured they were getting to their lowest number, so $14750 is awesome.

 

I'll keep an ear out for it on Saturday when you pick it up! Hopefully your area is more open than mine, I hate city driving! Legacy GT's are too much fun I just want to drive damnit

 

Enjoy the car!

 

Yeah, Cherry Hill is a little more open. Cops are assholes, though. And they hate loud cars. HATE them. I know already I'm going to get pulled over just for driving.

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Good to hear they are going to do the work. Kinda odd they say IF there mechanic can do it. Nothing special needed. Compression gauge set and a leak down test kit is the same for all cars. They come with different adapters for different size spark plugs.
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Yeah, Cherry Hill is a little more open. Cops are assholes, though. And they hate loud cars. HATE them. I know already I'm going to get pulled over just for driving.

 

If for whatever reasons you either dislike the noise or find it attracts too much unwanted attn, consider swapping on stock mufflers if they'll attach to the rest of the exh system that's on the car. Unless you're pushing > 300+ whp the mufflers aren't going to gain you much except for sound. My tuner told me the (REALLY loud on my OBXT) Nameless 5" turn down mufflers that I swapped in stock cans for, would probably net me 2-3 whp tops on his Mustang AWD-500-SE dyno.

 

The Nameless cans sounded awesome (they're on the car in the video that's linked in the mods list PM I sent you yesterday), but they were SO loud inside and outside the car, even I couldn't take it. My 12.5x sec 93 RX7 twin turbo runs an open exhaust and is MUCH quieter inside the cabin.

 

I can now talk to my passenger/s while driving (eg: wife & 5 yr old daughter), and it's quiet enough outside that I can boost it up however I want w/o even thinking about whether I might've gotten the attn of a nearby police officer (by sound anyway). I sometimes wish for more sound, but the absence of it has really increased my enjoyment of the car when taching it up.

 

Another benefit is that I can now hear the the engine and related sounds, including boost/vac leaks. W/ the Nameless cans on, I literally couldn't hear a thing coming from the engine bay.

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Nice list. Keep an eye on that Gimmick turbo inlet, I'm pretty sure i've read report/s that it can collapse during high boost operation. Know anything about the state of tune on the car? Gotta be a custom protune, no OTS map is intended for that stuff.
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  • 2 months later...

A little update for you all, since I haven't posted in a while. Did some more digging on the car and I've slowly been improving my understanding of all things Legacy.

 

First off, it got a new CF grill from the folks at R-Rev Sports back in November, complete with a red Subaru emblem. I've got a spare for the back, but it's smaller than the stock badge and doesn't have the beveled back like the stock badge does. (See my vB Garage for a picture.)

 

Second, I got a Tactrix 2.0 cable and a Windows 8.1 tablet 2-in-1 to run RomRaider and ECUFlash. I've been exploring RomRaider and made a few test logs, but haven't done anything formal as of yet. Anyone have any suggestions as to what the best data points are to monitor? I'm thinking IAT, IAM (DAM on APs), Boost (although I have several choices on how to log boost and need advice on which one is best), FBKC and FLKC. I also have the ability to run a simulated dyno test but haven't had the time to do that yet, although the local on-ramp is straight and long enough (albeit slightly uphill). I'm also still looking for a recommended dyno place in the Southern NJ/Philly area.

 

Third, I'm working on the exterior body issues, primarily getting replacement OEM splash guards (I had considered RallyArmor but thought it too flashy and against the minimalist appearance of the car), and looking at splash shields (?) that go at the front of the rear wheel wells. I also picked up a license plate relocation kit, but unfortunately the piping for the FMIC runs right through the mount location, so now it's just sitting in a box until I decide whether to sell it (and the COBB plate delete that I bought) or find an alternative method. I'm also trying to figure out my HID issues.

 

On that note, the car has been set up for HID lights since I bought it, but had problems with the passenger-side low-beam eventually blinking and then going out, which from what I've been able to discern is a voltage issue. It's currently running regular halogen bulbs until I figure this out. The car has two ballasts (DS bolted to the frame next to the windshield washer tank/below the battery and PS bolted to the frame below the PS headlight assembly; different makes after I replaced the PS unit with a new Can-Bus ballast), along with a voltage controller attached to the frame of the engine bay, with wiring harnesses running to either side with a third male plug (orange instead of the traditional yellow) leading to...nowhere. Any help on that would be great. I've tried looking for a similar setup and have struck out so far. Anyone that wants to take a guess, there's a shot of the engine bay attached to this post.

 

Since it's now the Dead of Winter, I've been considering a second set of wheels and tires for the snow and other associated Winter Hells that come with near-freezing temperatures in New Jersey. However, the car has ContiSport DWS rubber on it now, with plenty of tread left, so I'm thinking that will do considering I don't live in Colorado or something where snow is a regular occurrence. Also, lack of liquid capital means one set of tires/wheels will do for now.

 

So...that should cover it. Hope you all had a great holiday season and enjoyed your New Year's celebrations (for those who celebrate). Looking forward to any advice or suggestions!

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For general logging I typically monitor these parameters (I'm using Cobb terminology since I use an AP).

 

A/F Sensor 1 Ratio (AFR)

Boost

Calculated Load

Dynamic Advance Multiplier

Feedback Knock

Fine Knock Learning

Gear Position

Knock Sum

Ignition Timing

Inj Duty Cycle

MAF Voltage

RPM

TD Boost Error

Throttle Position

Wastegate Duty Cycle

 

I also periodically check AF Learning #1 A, B, C, D (the long term fuel trims) to keep an eye out for vac/boost leaks, but don't usually log them ongoing.

 

It's supposed to snow lightly in our area later this morning. If you drive the LGT, I'm curious what your impressions of the Conti DWS are. I've read decent things about them here and elsewhere and was considering replacing the Bridgestone RE970's that came w/ my OBXT when I bought it 2 summers ago. The RE970's are fine in all rain scenarios I've driven in so far, but they kinda suck in light snow even with 8mm+ tread depth. I had RE960's on my 05 Saabaru 9-2X Aero and they seemed fine in light/moderate snow with less than 7mm tread. I suspect the weight diff b/n the 9-2X and OBXT is a main reason the RE970s seem a lot worse than I thought they'd be.

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I don't think I'll be driving it this morning, although I might considering I don't really trust the current rubber on my Impreza (General Tire AltiMax HP's) as much, so maybe I'll take her out and leave her in Intelligent mode. Regardless, I just put a new screen protector on my tablet that requires some drying time (ArmorSuit MilitaryShield), so I may not be using it today.

 

EDIT:

 

And in hindsight, I'm really glad I didn't take the Legacy out today. It is NASTY outside and I had to make a run to AC to deliver a proposal. Would've kicked myself if the car got THAT dirty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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