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machining vs replacing rotors


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2008 legacy 2.5i

73xxx miles

 

Getting all new brake pads soon. I do get a bit of shimmy when I brake hard going downhill over 50mph and one of my rotors is getting a "lip". Dealer recommended machining rotors, tire shop recommended replacing rear rotors only. Your thoughts?

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I actually do both. I always buy replacement rotors on my first brake job of any car, then I machine the old ones I took off the car at my leisure. From that point on, I always have a fresh set ready for me when I do a brake job. I've found the Subaru rotors can usually be turned at least twice, they are pretty hearty.
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What he said.

 

Having them truned is fine.

 

Us with GT's have learned to use good pads, like Hawk, you want a pad that sheds the dust and keeps it from building up on the rotor. the build up will cause shimmy under braking at speed.

 

Centric makes some good stuff.

 

Any repair shop can do brakes cheaper then a dealer.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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i got new pads and had the rotors resurfaced at the dealership for a decent price. as soon as i got on the road i hear squeaking while NOT breaking. the service shop said this is normal for a couple of days while the new pads "shape" themselves to fit the rotors. is this true? sounds like crap to me
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i got new pads and had the rotors resurfaced at the dealership for a decent price. as soon as i got on the road i hear squeaking while NOT breaking. the service shop said this is normal for a couple of days while the new pads "shape" themselves to fit the rotors. is this true? sounds like crap to me

Perfectly reasonable.

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Sounds abnormal to me, but I'm not an expert on brakes. I've never had noise, especially noise while not braking happen after a pad/rotor install.

 

My personal preference is for new rotors, but getting old rotors turned is acceptable too.

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Make sure and bed the pads in. I doubt if the dealership did it and it's vital to make sure that you have a good friction base on the rotor surfaces. A lot of what people believe as "warped" rotors is from lack of bedding them in correctly and the material transfers from the pads onto the rotors unevenly and that makes it feel warped.

 

Search in here or google "how to bed in brake pads" and you'll find a lot of different ideas. For stock pads, I would do about 5-35 mph panic stops until JUST before actually stopping (down to about 2-3 mph) and then letting off the pedal to let the car roll through so the material doesn't transfer in one spot. Then do one 60 mph stop the same way, and then drive it around for about 15 minutes without using the brakes (highway is good for this) and let them cool and your squeaks and issues should be gone and they'll be good right up until they need replacing again. You can do the bedding process a couple of times if you still have any squeaking. This also is a good indicator of how good your brake fluid actually is. If you experience any pedal fade on the 4th or 5th panic stop or especially on the 60 mph stop, time to do a complete flush.

 

Good luck. :)

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Nah, just find a deserted office park, state highway or parking lot to do it late at night. Street pads do 60mph to 5mph, repeat until you smell the pads, usually about 5-6 stops, then let them cool before coming to a complete stop. Track pads usually go from 100-5, so that's best for a track.

 

http://www.stoptech.com has a good write up in their tech section.

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