LatentWagen's 2008 Subaru Legacy GT spec B

[LatentWagen]

Outside my great grandfather's home on Dekalb Ave in Brooklyn... wish he still lived there, I'm sure it's much nicer inside nowadays.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=229355&stc=1&d=1461979083

 

I'm not running this much camber, only -2.0 in the front (lens curve camber mod).

 

Also saw a funny sign while parking in a garage that I had no business being in, and definitely put a few more scuffs on the resonator

[Shipman]

Maybe I can help you with your photos. What camera and lens do you shoot with?

[LatentWagen]

I would be all ears! Brooklyn ones are cell phone pics, so there's no helping that... the car show, and a few other pics here and there, were shot with a Nikon D3200 (18/55 and 55/200). I have no idea what I'm doing with the real camera and mostly shoot in auto.

[Shipman]

Ok. I shoot Nikon so I can be a bit of a help I believe.

 

First off, those lenses are both trash, sorry man. You should look into picking up something fixed like a 35mm 50mm or 85mm with an fstop of 1.8 or lower. That will give you the DOF (Depth of field) that looks good in auto photography. Thats the blur between the subject and the background.

 

Youll really never get good shots with those lenses. That body (D3200) isnt bad but its slightly dated. That doesnt really matter though, you can learn plenty on that.

 

Try to shoot in manual. Thats where you will learn what the settings are:

 

Fstop is how low of a number a certain lens will allow, most can go up to f22 and some down to 1.8/1.4/1.2/1.0, the lower the number the fstop is, the more tight the focus will be between the subject and background. The higher the number, the more of the photo will be in focus. So for landscape shots of like nature and things, the number should be higher.

 

ISO is how bright the image is. The higher the iso the brighter the camera makes the image. The higher you make the iso, the more noise (grain) youll see in the photo, so you want to keep the iso as low as possible unless youre in a really low light scenario without a tripod. The lower the iso, the better (less grain). You can compensate for light needs in other ways. (See next)

 

Shutter speed is how long the shutter stays open when you click the cam to take the pic. The longer the shutter is open, the more light is allowed into the cam. That will determine how bright the photo is. Thats the bigger number, will usually say 1/250 or something like that. The lower that number, the brighter the image, the higher, the darker.

 

Focal length is the size of the lens, (how far away the lens sees from the camera body). So your focal lengths are 18-55mm and 55-200mm.

 

Shoot in manual. All of these combined will result in how the photo comes out. Quick suggestion for you since youre just learning. Drop your iso as low as possible. It will most likely be at 100 or may say L.01 or something. Then drop your aperture as low as possible, it will most likely be (with the lenses you currently have) f3.5 or something. Then begin to adjust your shutter speed and start to see what the pictures look like. Once you understand one setting and what it does, start to see what the others do and it will be much easier.

 

Hopefully this helps you a little. I feel like this is a slightly easier explanation than what you may read on a help site. Im self taught and I always thought that sites like that were hard to understand when I was just starting out.

[fotofan]

Shipman has a great explanation there, but I would like to say that your lenses may be crap, but they can still be used to take decent photos. Here https://www.flickr.com/gp/132886086@N02/W2AnZeis a collection of my pictures...most of those were taken with a terrible, old D3000 and an 18-200, which is no better than your lenses. I've moved on to better bodies and glass, and having learned to shoot halfways well with cheap stuff makes me appreciate better:) So I'd recommend learning to use what you have before moving to expensive glass, although a 35mm f/1.8 is really cheap and really good, like Shipman said.

 

Also, shooting in manual is a good suggestion. But if that's kind of overwhelming try aperture (A) mode, with manual ISO. Keep the ISO and aperture at the lowest possible numbers, and let the camera pick a shutter speed. But if the shutter speed gets long enough to where images get blurry, put the ISO up. On that camera you should be able to get up to about 800 ISO without too much grain (grain happens more the higher your ISO is).

 

Aperture adjusts your focus range, yes, but the larger your aperture (smaller number) the more light you let into the camera, so a very large aperture allows you to use a much faster shutter speed. This is the other large advantage of fast lenses, like the 50 or 35 f/1.8.

[fotofan]

You said there's no help for your potato pix, but there is, a little:) I ran this through Lightroom in a couple minutes for a basic edit...half of nice photography is computer work:)

[LatentWagen]

I got to drive a stock 06 LGT today; it was nice, clean, and totally stock. Crazy how different the car felt, especially over bumps and around the bad roads here... but it got me thinking about the mods I've done on mine, and the cumulative reduction in unsprung weight and rotating mass. So here's the list of each part of the equation, as compared to stock parts weight:

 

SSR wheel: -14lbs (unsprung & rotating)

DBA5k rotor: -4lbs (unsprung & rotating)

MPSS tire: -2lbs (unsprung & rotating)

Brembo caliper: -5lbs (unsprung)

RCE coilover: -5lbs (unsprung)

 

each front corner: -30lbs unsprung, 20lbs of which is rotating mass

front total: -60lbs unsprung, 40lbs rotating

 

SSR wheel: -14lbs (unsprung & rotating)

DBA4k rotor: +1lbs (unsprung & rotating)

MPSS tire: -2lbs (unsprung & rotating)

Brembo caliper: -4lbs (unsprung)

RCE coilover: -2lbs (unsprung)

 

each rear corner: -21lbs unsprung, 15lbs rotating

rear total: -42lbs unsprung, 30lbs rotating

 

So 102lbs total unsprung weight reduction, 70lbs of which is rotating mass. Can't ignore the effect of aluminum control arms and other bits, but those came stock on the spec B, so I left them out of the unsprung weight tally.

[snm95ls]

And your impressions on how that affected the vehicle dynamics?

 

Minus the whole 6MT nonsense.

 

[LatentWagen]

And your impressions on how that affected the vehicle dynamics?

 

The car steers more precisely, reacts to differences in the road, and steps over bumps completely differently. More connected, too. Feels like the tires are more attached to the ground, probably because they are staying there longer (much 'faster' suspension). One of those things that you've got to experience to fully understand. Maybe imagine doing a cross-training workout while wearing a pair of Timberlands, then switching to to runners

 

The other noticeable effect, which is mostly due to the rotating mass portion of the weight reduction, is nicely improved acceleration and braking. Car & Driver did a good article about the topic (attached), with hard data to back it up. In the article, the test 350R lost 58lbs of rotating mass, so those numbers may not be fully representative.

 

Minus the whole 6MT nonsense.

 

[jasejase]

Dammit latent... You're so damn sciency.

[battelready]

I can confirm the land yacht-ish aspects of the autos. When i drive my friends manual, I can throw it very easily. With the auto , I have to be cautious.

[LatentWagen]

Took a bunch of pics @ WBM this year. Still suck at shooting!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5423977&postcount=12060

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5423979&postcount=12061

 

And a few more videos...

 

Caravan out to WBM:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xM_Nh3OI_g]Subaru Caravan Out to WBM 2016 - YouTube[/ame]

 

Backwoods drive, then heading into the event:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CuH8kwbUNY]Backroads Drive into WBM 2016 Subaru Show - YouTube[/ame]

 

Bugeye blowing your eardrums out:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9GV8yF909M]Spec B Rev and Bugeye WRX with Anti-Lag WBM 2016 - YouTube[/ame]

 

And a rambling walk-around vid I did before getting it dirty at the meet:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbG2PFjjnPc]Subaru Legacy GT spec. B Walk-Around - YouTube[/ame]

[battelready]

Damd, I missed out . Ill be there next year though.

[LatentWagen]

Automotive math:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=237790&stc=1&d=1474212847

[snm95ls]

Wouldn't that work better if the Volvo was actually a Saab?

 

[LatentWagen]

Wouldn't that work better if the Volvo was actually a Saab?

 

 

Meh, a Swede is a Swede. And there is no way I'd own a real Saab!

[elvin315]

I read earlier in your blog that you had some work done in a shop in Goshen, NY. Seems we might be neighbors. I live in Warwick, and bought my '08 3.0R Limited in Walden this Summer. I love what you've done with your Spec B and plan to follow your lead in a few areas. Obviously our car's engines are different but as I understand their stock suspension and brakes are identical.

 

After 96,000 miles my car's suspension is way too soft, crashing on our Upstate potholes. Even dips make her bottom out on the suspension stops. I read about coil-overs but am unclear as to their advantages over the stock F&R struts and lowering springs. I was planning on Bilstein HD B6s and H&R springs all around, but now I'm not so sure. Could you enlighten me?

 

I'm a firm believer that stock brakes are never good enough. My last car, a 2001 Cadillac Catera had '04 GTO front calipers with C5 Corvette pads on slotted discs. The rears just got the discs. I'm interested in your Brembo set-up. Could you provide more detail? Was it a straight bolt in job or were some modifications needed? You mentioned possibly cooking the wheel bearings. Are HD wheelbearings necessary?

 

I'm not a racer kid, just a retired old fart that likes to DRIVE! Help a guy out. It's my first Subie. I bought her because I was tired of slip-sliding away in my RWD Catera all winter but since reading what can be done to, and with, the Legacy I'm excited to begin making her my own if you know what I mean. Front lip and rear spoiler can wait. I want to make this baby dance.

 

Thanks in advance!

[LatentWagen]

A&W in Goshen, right! They really know their Subarus; don't hesitate to have work done there. I came up from Westchester county for the HG/reseal/clutch job because I didn't trust it with anyone else.

 

In terms of suspension, you're already working with a solid platform, but the upstate NY roads are as challenging an environment as any car will see, short of a rally stage. I'd say Bils and a good set of springs would be a nice, reasonable combo. Don't forget to replace your top hats, lower control arm bushings, tie-rods, ball-joints, etc for full effect. Fresh rubber goes a long way. You'll probably want to look at a set of anti-roll bars, rear mounting brackets, and endlinks, too.

 

Brembos are a big step, and not really necessary if you're just looking to improve braking. A good set of pads and fluid would be more than enough. If you want to go the Brembo route, you'll need wider wheels (unless you want to run spacers), and a bracket for mounting the rear calipers, as well as a solution for the parking brake (different sized shoes on the STi, so the rotors are not compatible). Obviously bigger, pricier rotors, and more pads, too.

 

"Cooking the wheel bearings" was related to one-piece vs two-piece rotors. The aluminum hats act as a thermal barrier between the rotor and the hub, which keeps heat out of the wheel bearings. Like the Brembos, these rotors are unnecessary for daily use, but do provide a benefit when you're really pushing the car.

 

Good luck, and enjoy. You picked a great car. The 3.0 is a gem of a motor... do you have any plans to open up the exhaust and let the flat-six growl a little?

[elvin315]

In terms of suspension, you're already working with a solid platform, but the upstate NY roads are as challenging an environment as any car will see, short of a rally stage. I'd say Bils and a good set of springs would be a nice, reasonable combo. Don't forget to replace your top hats, lower control arm bushings, tie-rods, ball-joints, etc for full effect. Fresh rubber goes a long way. You'll probably want to look at a set of anti-roll bars, rear mounting brackets, and endlinks, too.

 

Thanks for the speedy reply. I agree re: the Bils & Springs. Still not sure of the benefits of coilovers, but their prices alone convince me against them. As for the total suspension refresh, I intended to do the whole deal but didn't want to bore you with the details. But since you mentioned Top Hats, which I assume are the top strut mounts, I see Whiteline has Front Offset Strut Mounts that increase or decrease the camber depending on how they're installed. I plan to lower her about 1.3 - 1.4 inches and that adds -camber so, good idea or should I stick with OEM Top Hats? Read that the Tribeca front anti-sway bar is a good fit and cheaper than aftermarket. That and a 22mm rear bar should keep things flat in the turns. Already have the polybushings for the front LCAs. I'll order the rest of the bits soon. As for the tires, I'll probably buy new wheels in the spring but for now new winter rubber on the OEM wheels will have to do. Thinking about the Michelin X-Ice xi3 or the Conti DWS 06.

 

Brembos are a big step, and not really necessary if you're just looking to improve braking. A good set of pads and fluid would be more than enough. If you want to go the Brembo route, you'll need wider wheels (unless you want to run spacers), and a bracket for mounting the rear calipers, as well as a solution for the parking brake (different sized shoes on the STi, so the rotors are not compatible). Obviously bigger, pricier rotors, and more pads, too.

 

Sounds more involved than I wanted. Not too concerned about the rears but is there a better front caliper among the Subaru model line that will fit within my 18 inch wheels? Grippier pads are a given but it would be nice to increase the pressure from the calipers. I know about the GrimSpeed MC Brace and will be getting one too.It just bothers me that my 3.0R doesn't stop as well as my old Caddie.

 

"Cooking the wheel bearings" was related to one-piece vs two-piece rotors. The aluminum hats act as a thermal barrier between the rotor and the hub, which keeps heat out of the wheel bearings. Like the Brembos, these rotors are unnecessary for daily use, but do provide a benefit when you're really pushing the car.

 

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

Good luck, and enjoy. You picked a great car. The 3.0 is a gem of a motor... do you have any plans to open up the exhaust and let the flat-six growl a little?

 

I thought about modifying the airbox for easier intake flow but with the money I'll be spending on suspension, brakes, and tires, the exhaust will have to wait. She does love to rev and I like the engine's pull at anything close to full throttle. I'm sure I'm not using all the horses, but I'd still love to squeeze some more mid-range from it. Maybe some remapping. I plan on keeping this one for a long time so I'm in no hurry. I looked for a 3.0R for a long time and kept thinking that Porches use an H6 too, just at the wrong end of the car.

[jasejase]

No need to modify your intake.

[LatentWagen]

This thread is due for a decent update!

 

My STi BBS & Dunlop WS4D winter setup is on as of this weekend. Noticed a nice bit more comfort with the 45 profile vs 40, but definitely can feel them give under load. Also, no squirrely action on 1 to 2 shifts in the cold weather, anymore. Ah well, compromises right?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=241398&stc=1&d=1480386049

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=241399&stc=1&d=1480386049

 

So everyone knows I can't help myself with SSR Comps, and I saw a set in supposed 17" by 8" fitment for sale. This perked my ears up since the seller, Bigshoes on these boards, insisted they cleared Brembos with no spacer. Color me interested.

 

Most 17" Comps in 5x100 are 7.5", and won't clear the front calipers without at least a 5mm spacer... however, a small fraction were made in 17" by 8.5" +48 (after Tanabe bought out SSR when they went out of business). I had a hunch his set might actually be 8.5", so hoping to pick up a solid backup set, I went to go check them out and see what was what. But, my hunch proved wrong. In fact, they are the even rarer-er Type C RS in 17" by 8" +35mm, which was made as a successor to the Competition.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=241401&stc=1&d=1480386049

 

After test fitting, they have tons of caliper clearance, and will be just right with a 225, so that means they'll work perfectly as a winter wheel. STi BBS setup may be up for sale; not sure yet.

 

Also, over the past few months I've been rehabbing the interior, one bit at a time. Here's the tally, so far:

 

5/4 - Extended arm rest cover mechanism disassemble, clean, rebuild:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5395738&postcount=10634

 

6/30 - New OEM JDM STi 6MT aluminum shift knob, detailed footpedals:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5435264&postcount=12487

 

9/25 - Cup holders and center console disassemble, clean (lots of PO's old coffee!), and rebuild. Discovered and cleaned up vacant mouse's nest (made of my dash insulation, thanksalot!), subsequent navigation/vents disassembly and cleaning. Parrot BT relocation to center console from radio HVAC area, and radio faceplate replacement with low mile used OEM:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5491818&postcount=195

 

10/15 - Blower motor resistor replacement (for a 2005-2006 Honda Civic 79330-SDG-W41, OEM replacement for $10), and blower motor cleanup, cabin air filter replacement:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5505506&postcount=643

 

10/31 - OEM steering wheel replacement with low mile used:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5515100&postcount=1006

 

11/1 - Redline e-brake boot:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5515714&postcount=1037

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=241402&stc=1&d=1480386049

 

This interior is becoming a much nicer place to be. Still need to address the shifter boot (will pick up a 6MT specific Redline boot soon), and find a way to snug up the top left corner of the glove box. Once that's done I'll have to do something about the speakers, and maybe add a bit of sound insulation to the doors.

 

... And one more add-on to this post. I made it out to three meets this fall. A few pics attached; good fun had by all

[Shipman]

Let me get those BBS'

[PeterJMC]

I'm looking at redline products for the shift and ebrake boot too The ebrake leather is cracking.

[LatentWagen]

Let me get those BBS'

 

Okay, shoot me a PM if you're serious, and you'll be first in line when they are available

 

They're solid original finish wheels, but are definitely a little chipped/scuffed up. I actually have an extra, so it's a full set of 5 of them

 

I'm looking at redline products for the shift and ebrake boot too The ebrake leather is cracking.

 

That's what happened to mine, too. The e-brake boot was much worse than my shifter boot is. I remember taking the e-brake off once when it was like 10*F, and just hearing ::crunch:: ... guess it's first thing you move around when getting into a frozen car.

[battelready]

I need me a spec b.