andyengineer Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 OK, so I've read the sticky about "Clearing up all the oil info". Lots of good info lots of opinions. My situation is that I drive only about 3k mi a year. I've been running M1 5w30, but I'm wondering if I should look into something different. I only end up needing an oil change (and I always do the filter with oil) once a year. Should I change to a different oil if I'm only changing it once a year or should I do a seasonal change regardless of mileage just so I can have the proper weight for the weather conditions? I've generally just done it in the spring, figuring the oil will be fresh for the hot season and more spirit driving. No big mods to the car and I only do a good pull through first and second once or twice a day just for funzies. Other than that I drive like a grampa to conserve gas. Opinions would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBear Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 You drive every day and only drive 3K a year?! Sorry, I have nothing productive to add. Just... wtf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 In your shoes, I would change the oil once per year using mobil 1 or something comparable like pennzoil platinum. Shell Rotella T6 is a popular oil for turbo subaru's too, and that would be a good choice as well. The way I see it, a 5qt jug of mobil 1 or comparable synthetic is around $22-$24 at walmart. I believe walmart sells 5qt jugs of conventional oil for around $15 +/- $2. So yeah you probably could get by ok with conventional oil, but for a few bucks more I'd rather run synthetic when only changed once per year. The most important thing on a car that doesn't get driven much is that the motor oil is brought up to operating temperature every so often, ideally for at least 10-15 minutes in my opinion. Short trips, and not being driven often can cause condensation to form in the oil. The moisture makes the oil more acidic, and reduces the amount of acid neutralizing agents in the oil, and acid neutralization is a very important quality of a motor oil. Getting the oil up to operating temperature for about 10-15 minutes or more should burn off the condensation in the oil. Also, condensation in the oil is more of a problem in the winter time than the summer time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyengineer Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 You drive every day and only drive 3K a year?! Sorry, I have nothing productive to add. Just... wtf? I live and work in a small city, we usually take my wife's car to travel distance, although this will be changing now that the kids are older and can travel in forward facing seats (35 mi trip to visit her parents). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Drop that Mobil1, stat! While its just OK for your engine, it's poisoning your turbo and slowly killing it. I wish JmP were available to chime in on why, as he knows more of the particulars, aside from that it doesn't have enough zinc. As was said, T6 is a good idea, but then again, for what you're doing, you can get away with conventional, no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SesnaBlue Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Run synthetic oil, don't use Penzoil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Right do not use Mobil 1 5w-30 I believe your driving falls into the server service. you want to change your oil more often. You need to drive the car for long distances to dry the oil out. Along with that, from my years on here, these cars don't like short drives. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyengineer Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Right do not use Mobil 1 5w-30 I believe your driving falls into the server service. you want to change your oil more often. You need to drive the car for long distances to dry the oil out. Along with that, from my years on here, these cars don't like short drives. Okay, so I get that everyone seems to like the Shell Rotella t6. I will be switching over but I'm still wondering should I be changing twice a year changing my weights seasonally or just find a middle-of-the-road wait and change it annually? I live in southeastern Michigan so our lowest normal temperature would be in the -10's and our highest average temperature with top out in the high 90's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 T6 will be fine all year. I use Amsoil 5w-40 year round. We see -20F+ in VT. I ski every weekend. Another hint, don't let the car warm up, start it and drive it, it will warm up faster that way. The bearings get more oil faster. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 I swapped from - 40 to - 30 last winter and didn't see a difference, I'm going to keep running the t6 all year now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyengineer Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 After doing some poking around on bob the oil guy forum I'm leaning towards 0 or 5w 30. Especially considering how few miles I clock annually. I always thought you wanted to have as little gap as possible between the two numbers since you are so heavily relying on additives but I'm feeling a bit more confident after doing more reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Mine has 91k, had her since she was new, have used T6, has never burned/used a drop, will do my 1st Blackstone test in 1k. JmP being from Michigan too would probably know best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 If you decide to run a 0w-30, I would strongly encourage you to consider Mobil 1 0w-40 instead. M1 0w-40 is one of the best oils you can buy in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 FWIW, I like the 40 for the heat the turbo puts out. But in your case your turbo is not under load for that long. So may be a 30 would be ok. I just hate the thought of these cars not being driven for longer times. You said you may start driving it more, if you do, I'd lean more towards the t6. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyengineer Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 FWIW, I like the 40 for the heat the turbo puts out. But in your case your turbo is not under load for that long. So may be a 30 would be ok. I just hate the thought of these cars not being driven for longer times. You said you may start driving it more, if you do, I'd lean more towards the t6. From what I've been reading it appears that thinner oil even down to 0w20 :hide:is not such a bad thing; It flows easier, is more efficient at dissipating heat, and is easier on your motor at start up. The heat dissipation of a thinner oil seems like it would be more advantageous especially in a turbo situation than xxw40. I'm also wondering if the T6 might be worse for the my cat's and if most of the people running the T6 have catless set ups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 What kind of driving are you doing? A lot of short trips? Infrequent long trips? Something in between? I'm no oil expert however I don't see the low annual mileage being a problem if you're changing it at least once per year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 I think HAMMERDOWN runs a 0w-30 but it's Amsoil and he has a 7qt oil system. He also has one of the highest mileage GT's. My Spec B is on Amsoil like my wagon. I just changed its oil with less then 6000 miles on it in 13 months. But when I drive the car, its mostly highway for at least 10 miles one way. Most us of would not recommend a 0-20 in these turbo cars, catted or not. My 1986 Ford F150 gets it's once a year oil change using Castrol GTX 5 or 10w-30 I drove it 800 miles in the last 13 months. Mostly short trips or moving it and the trailer around the lawn when I mow, or going to get dirt or landscaping stuff. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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