kzr750r1 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Pull the right front tire, there's a plastic panel behind it, remove the panel. O2 is right there. Make sure you get the correct one. I think its got a gray shielding on the wires. The yellow shielding is the rear sensor. Shielding is yellow on both for mine purchased from Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 If you replaced the UP, it's very easy to damage the A/F sensor, since you have to either remove it or work around it to take the bolts off the UP. A couple of good rachet/wrench hits will damage the internals. Had the same problem when I was installing my motor. The motor needed to move back/forth to get it aligned with the trans, while banging the A/F sensor against the frame at the same time. Ended up killing the sensor. You can buy Denso's online for a little over 100 bucks. Most of them come with the blue wire. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0BL3GACY Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 would an accesport tell me specifically if it's the rear/front o2 sensor or the a/f sensor? it said bank 1 so i'm assuming it's the front o2 but not sure..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 It would tell you if there is excessive knock. Again front is A/F and back is O2. If the A/F is bad then it may explain why your knock sensor is hearing enough knock to produce the CEL and go into limp mode. There are also tests I found pretty quickly via google to ID if your knock sensor is bad. Put the CEL and description in google and check the suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Also, you can test the Ohms on the O2/AF sensors to determine if they're in spec. Several YouTube vids on how to test these. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0BL3GACY Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 200$ for a a/f sensor. might as well get a tune and get the cel disabled and zero out my timing compensation in the process. :l Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 you can get the 02 for around $125 if you hunt a bit online. If there is a problem with your 02, you need to replace it whether you have a tune because it will be creating your fuel compensations, so if it is messed up, it will mess up your tune too. You don't want to tune that CEL out. At this point you reference different sensors in the thread. The code was for a knock sensor, which is on the engine block under the intercooler near the TB. The upstream 02 which reads air fuel burn mixture is what you refer to next, and there's also the MAF. You should probably get straight about whats actually the culprit. Have you tried a complete ECU reset by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal for 10 seconds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 You need the front O2 sensor (wideband)! Your car will be blind to your fueling without it. Now you don't need the rear o2 sensor (narrowband), I've disabled mine even with stock downpipe. As I mentioned in the PM, get Denso 234-9120, which is the same sensor as the OEM one. But if you prefer a Subaru snickered one get 22641aa32a. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0BL3GACY Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Need a new knock sensor.. where can I get one for a decent price? Also need a maf sensor.. man I change an up pipe and everything decides to take a dump :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 One of the two Vendors that are dealers from the Vendor link on the blue bar up top. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmax540 Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 The 2.2k ohm resistor does it matter if it is 1/4 or 1/2 watt ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0BL3GACY Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 so I replaced my knock sensor.. still got the cel ;/ I unplugged the battery for 20 min and held the brake and its still there.. before getting anything I plugged up the car with McDowell tuning and there was zero knocks or misfires so we assumed it was the sensor.. got the sensor from a Subaru dealer so I know it's good.. idk what else to do i might end up taking it to a shop, I've already spent too much trying to figure it out.. made sure nothing is rattling or loose around the sensor.. plugged it in the code reader and it's still a p0328.. need advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0BL3GACY Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Just to put an end on this thread for anyone having same problems as me, I ended up taking it to the dealership. They found out one of the wires in the harness had come loose and wasn't making contact. (to be specific its the big brown plug under the TMIC) That was causing my CEL and telling me that i had the knock sensor going off. Went to local subaru shop everyone recommended (despain) and it was the worst experience i've ever had with a mechanic. (not to mention the hand prints all over my tan interior) i've learned my lesson, dealers honestly aren't so bad when it comes to subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 yea, know. that big brown plug on my wagon has a spliced wire. I think it's the white wire. It's been that way for many years. It must have happened in one of the early tranny rebuilds. The 1st 5 times the tranny was out it was by a shop or the dealer, they did it 3 times. I wonder which one fixed the wire. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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