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Intercooler output air duct


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My 2006 lgt wagon keeps blowing the air duct / hose that is the output from the intercooler to the intake manifold off. I have replaced it once, it was destroyed, and now just replaced it again. I drove it for one day and can see on the intake side it comming off again! What am I doing wrong? It has a pink dot anyone know if that should point towards intercooler or intake side?
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Worm drive, new hose came with clamps. Last time I tightened them pretty hard, tore the ends off... Yesterday I just snugged them down. Looks like it also called throttle body hose. I noticed after new hose it's running 20lbs of boost, maybe I need aftermarket hose? Also was thinking maybe I'm pushing hose too close to throttle body, going to loosen and move it back towards intercooler a bit. Originally intercooler bracket was missing I thought after putting one on it would be OK, obviously I was wrong....
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Fix that bracket if the intercooler can move it could bend, crack if it moves it could yank the hose.

 

get an aftermarket good brand name stuff is reinforced with metal rings kinda like a slinky its inside the silicon

 

and get some t bolt clamps they tighten much more evenly, the oem worm drive have a tendency to tear the hose, esp where the groves of the worm drive are

 

what do you have done that the boost is that high ?

stock intercooler wil not be happy at that boost level

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This is how I got the car, all hacked up.... The bracket is fixed now. I'll see about getting clamps like you said and most likely one of the aftermarket hoses. Whoever had this car before me must have tuned it to set the boost so high, or something is wrong with it....
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I noticed it both time I replaced the output duct hit 20psi. I think it just has been leaking boost out that pipe since I got it. However until the last replacement a few days ago it would hit about 15psi (has not been running right for the last year or 2).
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As far as I can tell since I bought it. I replaced the output duct about a year ago noticed it would hit about 20psi then. I think it started leaking shortly after and would only hit 15psi, never ran right either. Replaced the duct again a few days ago (did plugs and fuel filter first) and then started hitting 20psi again. It then popped the bank 1 lean code, I found vacuum line off. Reconnected line and got #4 misfire and loud noise (clacking). Swapped 2 and 4 coil packs, then got 3 and 4 misfire codes. Next swapped injectors with 2 and 4 now get 2,3 and 4 misfire codes. I cleared codes between each step. When I did plugs #4 anode was touching the electrode looked melted or smashed. Other plugs looked OK but we're white.
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I'm thinking with that vacuum hose being off for that long, you have burnt valves or broken ring lands on the pistons.

 

You may want to get a compression test done to verify that.

 

Sorry.

 

see my click here link for what you may be in for.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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put a vacuum gauge on it, if the needs is bouncing all over the place, be ready for burned or out of adjustment valves.

Boost leak test it..

Compression test..

leakdown test it

Sounds like whoever owned the car before you beat the bag out of it- and yourself has been driving it around for a year or 2 not running right, chances are it will need a motor, these cars are finicky with tunes- but you should figure out why you are hitting 20psi first so the new motor doesnt go KABOOM too

If the plug was smashed- you have broken ring-lands

 

or ^ what he said

 

I know these things b/c I have partially burnt valves and a small peice out of a piston- and its still running- stalls sometimes in traffic or at stops- idle is a little rough sometimes- theres some hesitation around 2k-2200RPM, but shes still alive, just waiting to get the motor in the winter car- then the LGTs getting one

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Got a whole 80lbs on cylinder #4. Anyone have recommendations on mechanics and tuners for Portland Oregon metro area? Currently it is at SSI they seem like they are really good, however I am debating doing the work myself seeing as I can't afford any part of this.?
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Well I am sad to say but I won't be doing the rebuild. I need my car back asap I use it for work (Xerox technician) I drive 60k a year.... It's is currently at Superior Soobie and Imports, they are going to do the rebuild, forged pistons will be put in and finally it will be tuned correctly. I had to take a loan extension out to pay for it probably would have cost half the amount or more if I had time to do it myself. I actually really badly want to do it myself!
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  • 1 month later...
Got it back! Wiseco forged pistons 100mm. ACL race bearings. They found tons of strange things wrong like missing turbo brackets... Repaired all of them. Found my intercooler is leaking so I need to replace it before full tune after wear in. Glad to have her back missed this thing!
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