AMileHighLGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I am going with the 257. The only block I have any interest in using because of what I see going for max after how many miles since the rebuild? There is a sticky at the top of the forum about forged or stock pistons. Forged is stronger, but will cause a little more cylinder wall wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortCityLGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 You can do it in accessport yes (might as well use their Stage 1 tune too then). Or you can get a Tactrix cable for $150 (used for flashing), ECUFlash for free (to write to ecu, you can use ECU flash to tune too) and Romraider for free to edit the tune (program screenshots are from). Wait... do the Cobb OTS maps not do this by default? Shit. Is there a DIY guide available? Sorry to go a bit off topic! Just would rather not have car go boom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Wait... do the Cobb OTS maps not do this by default? Shit. Is there a DIY guide available? Sorry to go a bit off topic! Just would rather not have car go boom. Yes the accessport comes with a stage 1 and stage 2 map already programmed on it.. you buy it, plug it in and press the button and wait and you have a safer map than the stock one 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 I am going with the 257. The only block I have any interest in using because of what I see going for max after how many miles since the rebuild? There is a sticky at the top of the forum about forged or stock pistons. Forged is stronger, but will cause a little more cylinder wall wear. Good read about the forged but I don't think anyone yet has took pictures of a motor rebuilt with forged pistons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 lol one person said why no use the ej22e instead of the ej255/57 that sounds like a ticking time bomb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortCityLGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Yes the accessport comes with a stage 1 and stage 2 map already programmed on it.. you buy it, plug it in and press the button and wait and you have a safer map than the stock one That was in regards to the OTS maps having the 2.11* of timing added to #2 & 4! Found the answer elsewhere: Cobb resolved this in v118 and up maps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 lol one person said why no use the ej22e instead of the ej255/57 that sounds like a ticking time bomb? How much money and time are you willing to spend? You can put whatever you want in there if you're willing to overcome engineering obstacles. Frank_ster has a buick 3.8 sc v6 in his. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 They are identical (hence, the identical SOA PN), the only difference being the piston dish. Not sure how that's differentiated in the manufacturing process, though. That said, you are correct -- it's all in the tune. If you want a safe, reliable rebuild, get an OEM block, or spend the money for a well-built forged motor. Well-built isn't so much about the parts that are in it, but who puts it together. Outfront Motorsports has recently gotten a good rep for building motors that not only perform, but last -- and they come with a pricetag that shows it. There's a point, though -- One can spend too much money on a short/long block: The Cosworths aren't worth the money, from what I've read/heard. If you cannot afford to do the rebuild twice (or maybe even three times) you should get the OEM shortblock and call it a day. Otherwise, you're gonna end up trying to shoot the moon with your credit card. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 How much money and time are you willing to spend? You can put whatever you want in there if you're willing to overcome engineering obstacles. Frank_ster has a buick 3.8 sc v6 in his. I'm in no rush.. before my other car was totaled when the Ej25D let go I ended up getting a Ej22e with 192K on it and using my 25D heads to get the car ready for a build. I can't see a stock 22e with the stock boost levels holding up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 They are identical (hence, the identical SOA PN), the only difference being the piston dish. Not sure how that's differentiated in the manufacturing process, though. That said, you are correct -- it's all in the tune. If you want a safe, reliable rebuild, get an OEM block, or spend the money for a well-built forged motor. Well-built isn't so much about the parts that are in it, but who puts it together. Outfront Motorsports has recently gotten a good rep for building motors that not only perform, but last -- and they come with a pricetag that shows it. There's a point, though -- One can spend too much money on a short/long block: The Cosworths aren't worth the money, from what I've read/heard. If you cannot afford to do the rebuild twice (or maybe even three times) you should get the OEM shortblock and call it a day. Otherwise, you're gonna end up trying to shoot the moon with your credit card. LOL or the retirement IRA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 If both blocks where that bad they would of had a TSB about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 If both blocks where that bad they would of had a TSB about it? In stock form, they're fine. Turn the boost up and drive it hard, though, and that's when the problems start. 99.7% of all block failures are related to abuse/misuse/neglect/idiocy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 I had no plans at least for a year to do anything power level wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 In stock form, they're fine. Turn the boost up and drive it hard, though, and that's when the problems start. 99.7% of all block failures are related to abuse/misuse/neglect/idiocy. People not paying attention to oil levels. All turbo cars have this problem to a certain extent. We live in a world where people expect lifetime fluids and little or no maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 lol one person said why no use the ej22e instead of the ej255/57 that sounds like a ticking time bomb? The EJ22E is an open-deck NA block -- Perhaps they meant the nearly-indestructible, fully-closed-deck EJ22T? Or perhaps an EJ20G (I had one -- Great block!) The 22e is what came as a stock motor in the 1st and 2nd generation of Legacies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I had no plans at least for a year to do anything power level wise. Tell Boost your plans. It could use a laugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 The EJ22E is an open-deck NA block -- Perhaps they meant the nearly-indestructible, fully-closed-deck EJ22T? Or perhaps an EJ20G (I had one -- Great block!) The 22e is what came as a stock motor in the 1st and 2nd generation of Legacies yeah I know what the 22e came from, which is why I asked wondering why anyone would suggest that for a ECU set up for a turbo platform.. Just to be sure I told the person on USMB that it was a turbo car just to make sure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 People not paying attention to oil levels. All turbo cars have this problem to a certain extent. We live in a world where people expect lifetime fluids and little or no maintenance. Or this day in age they still think the oil light is a oil level indicator.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 Tell Boost your plans. It could use a laugh.Really i'd be happy 5 psi over stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Really i'd be happy 5 psi over stock That's how the rebuild fairy starts. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 hope I can meet them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 The uppipe in the 05/06 has a catalytic converter that has the potential to melt if EGTs get to high, which will send the cat through the turbo for bad news. Most folks get a used STi uppipe over on nastycock. Drop in, oem perfect fitment, no tune required for uppipe only. No retune, but some edits in the program. I.e., you need to shut off code p0420 because in their infinite wisdom, not only did Subaru put a cat before the turbo, but it's the one they chose to monitor. You also need the 2.2kΩ resistor to trick the ECU into thinking the EGT sensor is all copacetic. MrTris, awesome list sir, thanks for taking the time to make that post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 ^ My understanding is that either the resistor or the 420 code switch in the tune will work. If you just do the resistor and fool the ECU, you didn't really need the tune change. That said, personally, I have both solutions on my car, but I did uppipe, downpipe, intercooler, bpv, ebcs, and tune all at one time. Therefore, there was no marginal cost to doing both in my situation. Generally, I would say do both, since a tune is recommended in all cases anyway. But strictly speaking, uppipe and resistor mod are good enough for government work if you want to run mostly stock for a while for the cost of a used sti uppipe ($75ish) and a 2.2 ohm resistor (<$1). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmax540 Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Seems like a inexpensive fit if you could make it work in a legacy ? http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4613506332.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Seems like a inexpensive fit if you could make it work in a legacy ? http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4613506332.html Wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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