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DW65C installation


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There's a thread from LittleBlueGT that indicates 100% IDC in logs doesn't actually mean 100%, whereas 120% logged is probably closer to true 100%. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/convince-me-use-my-dw740s-some-sort-evidence-71828.html

 

Even still, it seems that your IDC are a bit higher than i'd like to see on my own car. I see your logged AFR goes down to 11.14 and no lower. Is that per the tune? Are you logging w/ a wideband O2?

 

Your WGDC sits solid at 90.2% the entire time you're WOT, which I'm not used to seeing. I don't know much about the VF40... is 14 psi at 6400 rpm pushing it too hard? Your logged boost error up way up top is like 4 psi, which implies that the tune has boost target of 18 psi up there. Seems high, maybe i'm wrong.

 

There's no knock anywhere in the log, which is a good thing.

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i will be taking it to a mechanic on saturday to run some diagnostics and try to figure it out. from recent discoveries that ive had about the car, i reckon that my injectors are probably N/A spec injectors that one of the previous owners installed in there. but i guess ill find out on saturday
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OK, let us know how it turns out.

 

I'm still waiting for my tuner/shop to report back on whether they can do the seal replacement for a reasonable fee. I suppose if i don't hear from them within the next couple of days, i'll just get the seal, a new retaining ring, RTV and do the replacement myself.

 

Any caveats on getting the pump assy out of the tank and the seal off, aside from being mindful of the float that sticks out to the side? I've read through at least 2 or 3 pretty good threads w/ detailed photos, and it certainly seems pretty straightforward. I don't need to open the housing to swap the pump, I just need to get the housing out so I can swap the old seal for a new one. Just don't want to get myself stuck b/c if that happens I don't have another car to drive out and get more parts :)

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There's a thread from LittleBlueGT that indicates 100% IDC in logs doesn't actually mean 100%, whereas 120% logged is probably closer to true 100%. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/convince-me-use-my-dw740s-some-sort-evidence-71828.html

 

I've logged AFR increasing with IDC all the way to 108%, while the pump could keep up with the injectors. I ran out of nerve at that point. ;)

 

I'm just going to mention again, for those who follow, that the GRB ('08~'13 STi) pump does about 20 liters per hour more than the one fitted to 'base' turbo models like the FXT, LGT and WRX. It can keep up just fine with stock 565cc injectors for most purposes (on pump gas).

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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OK, let us know how it turns out.

 

I'm still waiting for my tuner/shop to report back on whether they can do the seal replacement for a reasonable fee. I suppose if i don't hear from them within the next couple of days, i'll just get the seal, a new retaining ring, RTV and do the replacement myself.

 

Any caveats on getting the pump assy out of the tank and the seal off, aside from being mindful of the float that sticks out to the side? I've read through at least 2 or 3 pretty good threads w/ detailed photos, and it certainly seems pretty straightforward. I don't need to open the housing to swap the pump, I just need to get the housing out so I can swap the old seal for a new one. Just don't want to get myself stuck b/c if that happens I don't have another car to drive out and get more parts :)

 

Nope, straight forward and simple. If you pull the fuel pump fuse while the car is running it'll help minimize the fuel in the lines that you have to disconnect from the housing. Also, please look for vacation pics so when you reinstall you (a) tighten the bolts in the correct order and (b) don't over torque them.

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Thanks for the input. Looks like I have some other things to worry about 1st. <off topic>My new speed density protune is logging FLKC in an RPM range that is running ~1 psi more boost than the previous calibration. I'll need to work on that w/ the tuner. His newer calibrations are locked/protected so I can't adjust anything. The prev calibration (not speed density) isn't protected so I was able to dial it in myself pretty tightly for my exact driving style/conditions. Only main diff appears to be boost in this region.
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by the way, off topic over here. just picked up an OEM IHI VF52 turbo with 7K miles and zero shaft play last night. want it installed within a month. will update about that later on!

 

Moar off topic... Sweet. I think you'll like the VF52. Me: Built motor, VF52, Perrin inlet, IPR TMIC, Turbosmart Kompact BPV, TGV deletes, DW740, DW65c, GS EBCS, GS UP, Cobb catted DP, Nameless midpipe/Y mated to stock cans, 303whp/339wtq on a Mustang dyno @ 20 psi peak. Fun stuff.

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hmm, i was hoping to see more power than that... not to insult you by any means. i mean, the tuner (Mikey Botti) was saying that my car currently (no name catless up pipe, custom 3" catless downpipe with Y-Pipe cutout, 3" mid to 2.5" axleback to no name exhaust. Cobb intake) with his tune and the stock VF40 should be in the area of 275 WHP and 330 WTQ. the tuning session was in fact road tuning but he has tuned hundreds of LGT's already so i trust his assumptions. im pushing 16.2 Psi, ive peaked once at 17.5. and like i said when i started the thread, im not done with the tune obviously. I guess ill have to see what i can squeeze out of this turbo.
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No offense taken, it is what it is :)

 

From what I've read, you're not likely to see more than low 300's whp from the VF52, and it isn't good for much more than 20-21 psi (and doesn't appear to be able to hold that to the top of the rpm range).

 

As for the #'s, it also depends on which dyno you're on. MaxCapacity is running a similar setup but on stock fueling, and turned in 280whp/300wtq at 20.8 psi, also on a Mustang dyno.

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  • 1 year later...

I just did this install last night. Here are some notes and pictures to assist others.

 

Resources:

-Helpful

on how to remove Legacy GT rear seat

-DW65c Install guide from DW

-Related install from NASIOC

-Similar

-

on a wrx install

-

 

One or two O-Rings?

-I did two per the DW65c instructions in the box and the pdf from their site. and this discussion also used two

 

Notes:

Most of the resources online are for WRX and STI's. One thing that is different is the cover of the fuel pump location. The STIs/wrx have the wire grommet on the same cover that the fuel pump basket is under. On the Legacy the cover above the fuel pump location does not have a grommet. At first I started to open up the driver's side that has a grommet but is a smaller cover. what was underneath did not look like what's in the videos. Opening up the cover on the passenger side (without a grommet) showed the same fuel pump carrier that is in most of the videos.

 

-I wish I had waited till my tank was empty. I also tried to release pressure by keeping the fuel door open. But I don't think there is anyway around fuel coming out. It surprised me and was worried it would just keep pouring out.

 

-The electrical connector is a two step removal. First you have to unhinge the front, and then depress a tab at the back to pull it up

 

-I used a tip from one of the linked videos that shows cutting out 4 plastic squares from a plastic water bottle or milk jug. These can go underneath the plastic tabs and help you separate the top from the bottom w/o having 4 hands.

 

-I do not know how to recreate a method for getting the old fuel pump out. The plastic tabs that hold the pump in are scary. I was so worried I was going to break them but they have to be bent up enough to release the hooks on the fuel pump. I used some small screw drivers. I think I had one entering from the top and another from the side.

 

-Pushing the new pump in took some finagling. It didn't want to go in and it takes some pressure to overcome the plastic tabs and 2 orings pressing into the opening, but it finally had a satisfying click. I suggest waiting until the pump has been clicked in before installing the filter on the bottom. That will let you push with more force directly on the bottom of the pump. I had installed the filter first and I didn't want to press to hard directly on the filter piece.

 

-take pictures of the unit right when it comes out so you can see how things are routed. Putting it back together was a puzzle, and I forgot where hoses should go.

 

-Pull out the c clip from the back. Dumb mistakes trying to get it off before I realized the obvious.

 

-my container had some dirt in it after 10 years

 

-the little spring washer that holds on the fuel filter for the DW 65c was interesting. I guess it just needs to bend down to do its job

 

-Have a gas can handy to dump the gas into

 

-putting the metal ring back on at the end was challenging There is a little notch in the ring and a tab on the cover of the unit that line up. But getting the metal ring over the two inlet/outlet elbows caused me some problems.

 

-when putting the seat back in , keeping the belts buckled can help.

 

-All in all, it was messy, smelly, and take some patience and attention. The hardest parts are dealing with the gas spilling out at the beginning and removing the old pump.

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  • 10 months later...

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