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New motor/VF52 installed. Cobb OTS stage 2 tune for break in?


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Its been a long and expensive couple months but my new motor is finally installed in my outback. I went the VF52 route so I'll obviously need a tune. But to tune they'll need to redline the engine, which I don't want to do until after the motor has about 1,000 miles on it.

 

In the mean time can I use an OTS stage 2 map? Its intended for VF40 but as long as I don't boost I'll be okay correct?

 

Also, does anyone know if the OTS tunes are designed to compensate for the catless uppipe (in regards to preventing CEL/EGR lights)?

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I suggest contacting a tuner who you plan on using, wether e tune or dyno. Tell them what all you have and that you would like a base map for the car to run on while the motor is braking in. They will be able to tweak it slightly with just some light throttle and driving around. Then when broken in they can finish the tune.

 

On a side note, the issue of braking in is very very debated, my personal method is that of what I learned from my engine machinist (been matching engines for 35 years) and I now have 12k on stage 3+ and literally don't even burn 1/8th qt between oil changes. I went hard from the beginning. Started it up, heat cycled it around the block a few times, let it cool down, changed oil, drive around till warm again, did 3 pulls one till 4k them 5k then 6k after each pull letting the engine compression brake down to lower RPMs then called it good.

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yeah, a tuner basemap should be fine for initial breakin.

 

I'm sure there are as many ways to break in an engine as there are machinists.

 

The common thread seems to be to run it for a short time (I did just under 1000 miles on the last engine I built) before a first oil change, and don't spend a bunch of time above 3000 rpm or prolonged periods at the same RPM during that initial time period.

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yeah, a tuner basemap should be fine for initial breakin.

 

I'm sure there are as many ways to break in an engine as there are machinists.

 

The common thread seems to be to run it for a short time (I did just under 1000 miles on the last engine I built) before a first oil change, and don't spend a bunch of time above 3000 rpm or prolonged periods at the same RPM during that initial time period.

 

FWIW, that can be hard to do on a 5EAT, since, during normal driving on city streets, RPMs will 'hang' at certain levels as the trans attempts to modulate the engine speed and available torque.

 

That said, I was told to just "drive normally" (subjective, I know) and not go over 4500 or take the freeways (I don't anyhow) . It took a few hundred for the trans to set itself right, but I noticed that it'll hang, even off-throttle, around 2k-2500 ish while cruising around 35-40mph. I've also jumped it up to 5500ish during a downshift into boost literally twice now. Car takes off like rocket!

 

I check the oil every other day and I haven't lost a single drop yet. Granted, I'm still running Redline Break-In fluid with Castrol GTX 10w-30 High Mileage, which is what I was told to run for break-in. I think around 1000 miles I'll finally switch back to Eneos 5w-30 full synth and see where we stand then -

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Have Mike Kinsman send you a map. He's kept my vf52 happy for years.

 

www.tuningalliance.com he's in Vernon CT.

 

Im on stock fueling with a IPR tmic, catless up/dn pipes.

 

He dynoed the engine when the vf52 went on then did a street tune when the ej257 had 500 miles to make sure everything was still good. His street tunes are from 2500-5000rpm in 3rd or 4th gear.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Hello there,

 

I would be happy to help you with your needs as well if required.

 

If your going to run the vf52 during break in you can simply loop the wastegate for the break in period as well which will limit it to wastegate boost till your ready to tune.

 

PM or email me if your interested and have any other questions.

 

Have a great day.

 

Dave

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

facebook.com/cryotuneperformance.

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Thanks for the tips guys! I just started the car (on stock map for now) and left it at idle just to see if it ran...and it started right up and is nice and smooth. I'm so relieved. I'll figure out what I'll do for the tune over the weekend.
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^really? My plan was to put 50-100 miles on the engine before changing the oil. Whats the benefit of doing it after the first startup? I should mention I just ran it a couple minutes so it didn't get completely up to temp
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^really? My plan was to put 50-100 miles on the engine before changing the oil. Whats the benefit of doing it after the first startup? I should mention I just ran it a couple minutes so it didn't get completely up to temp

 

Again, motor break-in is like sex; Feels great, no matter what, but everyone has their own way of doing it.

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I've been taught to keep the rpms about 1500-2000 for about 15 minutes. AThen bring it back to idle for a few and shut it off.

 

Change the oil and filter to remove anything that may have worn and to get the assembly grease out of there.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Okay so I'm going to contact the tuner next week for a base map that fits my set up (stock everything except VF52, DW 65C FP, Kartboy crank pulley and Maddad aftermarket catted DP). However despite general consensus here I started her up again a couple more times. First on stock map, than on Cobb stage 2 91 octane. I noticed both times a small-moderate shake/roughness when revving to around 2500. When the AP was plugged in it showed zero knock, zero fine knock learn and DAM of .068

 

I took her up and down the street to see how the car drove (looks like I'll be adding brakes and suspension to my list..great) and overall the engine was very smooth, responsive, quiet etc... save for the little bit of shake in the lower RPMs. It definitely stumbled right around 2k rpm as well. Got up to a max of 4500rpm slowly (no boost) and than right back to the garage. Decided thats the last I'll drive it until I have a base map from the tuner and have done an oil change.

 

Any ideas where the roughness might come from? No CEL, everything seems to be hooked up properly. My friend's first thought would be a small boost leak somewhere so that's where I'll start. Any other ideas of where to look?

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I just idle-revved mine for the first time today, and it also shook like it wasn't happy I did that. Drives fine, makes boost very well, but, idling and revving, it does not want.

 

I'm gonna pull some logs, see what's up. Maybe you can do the same and we'll compare notes?

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Sure thing. I'll definitely need some guidance on what parameters to log with the AP.

 

I also read an idea to spray soapy water along any lines that carry boost. If there is a leak it should be visible. Won't be able to get everywhere but worth a shot I suppose, since it will be much easier than pressure testing boost.

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Sure thing. I'll definitely need some guidance on what parameters to log with the AP.

 

I also read an idea to spray soapy water along any lines that carry boost. If there is a leak it should be visible. Won't be able to get everywhere but worth a shot I suppose, since it will be much easier than pressure testing boost.

 

I use the standard params plus Inj Duty Cycle and vehicle speed, so I have a better frame of reference for what I was doing, as I tend to drive the same route/places not just daily, but when I'm logging.

 

Here's what I just did a few mins ago. Note, I use Drive, so all edits were done in gSheets and may not appear correctly, though I have frozen the column headings and highlighted the FBKC events for reference -

datalog1.csv

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Did my first oil change today. Only about three miles and 10 mins of idling so far. Noticed some very small flakes in the oil, I'm going to assume this is something one might expect on their first oil change. I'll do another one in 50 miles or so and compare.

 

Took a couple data logs after the oil change. Its on the Cobb Stage 2 91 map at the moment. Will be reaching out to tuners this week for a base map and prep for full tune.

 

Tris, in regards to the shake... did you happen to change motor mounts while doing the swap? If so, did you happen to go with Group N? These are what I went with and the more I think of it, they could be the cause of the slight shake (or are exaggerating something else that is going on). Here are two logs. The first is at idle, the second while driving. I should mention the one at idle was with the car not quite at full operating temps. Not sure if that skews anything. Let me know if you want me to do another idle at operating temp

datalog2.csv

datalog4.csv

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I have group-n motor mounts. They made the car rattle and shake a lot more at idle. As soon as I rev it up just a little bit everything smooths out.

 

At idle though, they can be very vibratey.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Mines a bit different; I don't really feel em too much at idle. From 1500-2500 rpm I feel a bit of a shake and than it smooths out at higher rpms. Mine are BRAND new though, so I'm sure they'll loosen a bit

 

Nice outback BTW!

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Thanks for the feedback. Mines a bit different; I don't really feel em too much at idle. From 1500-2500 rpm I feel a bit of a shake and than it smooths out at higher rpms. Mine are BRAND new though, so I'm sure they'll loosen a bit

 

Nice outback BTW!

 

I wasn't quite sure of this, but thanks. I found that by raising my idle up by +125, it took care of the at-idle shakes. Although, during revs, it still shakes on the way down; I've seemed to have narrowed down the cause. I'll put it in another thread, though.

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I suggest contacting a tuner who you plan on using, wether e tune or dyno. Tell them what all you have and that you would like a base map for the car to run on while the motor is braking in. They will be able to tweak it slightly with just some light throttle and driving around. Then when broken in they can finish the tune.

 

On a side note, the issue of braking in is very very debated, my personal method is that of what I learned from my engine machinist (been matching engines for 35 years) and I now have 12k on stage 3+ and literally don't even burn 1/8th qt between oil changes. I went hard from the beginning. Started it up, heat cycled it around the block a few times, let it cool down, changed oil, drive around till warm again, did 3 pulls one till 4k them 5k then 6k after each pull letting the engine compression brake down to lower RPMs then called it good.

I agree.

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OP, what is the new motor you put in? Did you build your block or buy a new one?

 

Brand New EJ257 and had existing heads rebuilt. Car seems to be running pretty well overall. Haven't gone past 10 pounds boost and you can feel it wants to pull harder. Still a bit shaky though. According to the AP gauges, no knock, DAM at 1.00. I do see the A/F ratio a bit low at idle (13.8-14.1) and fluctuating just above (~14.9ish) and below (14.3ish) 14.7 while cruising that seem to correspond to the shaking. Thinking I might have a boost or vacuum leak somewhere. Any other ideas what might cause this?

 

Here's the complete list of my build so far if anyone is interested

 

Short Block $1,805

Gasket Set $225

Subaru Oil Cooler $210

Subaru Oil Pump 10mm $130

Subaru Turbo Install Kit $180

Subaru Oil Pan $100

Timing Belt Kit $150

PCV Assembly $30

Thermostat $18

Subaru Long Life Coolant x 3 $60

Transmission Fluid (Extra S) $40

Differential Fluid (Extra S) $20

Spark Plugs $33

Subaru Air Filter $17

Misc Gaskets $20

Group N Motor Mounts $125

Killer B Oil Pickup $170

Killer B Windage Tray $75

Turbo $450(used)

Catless Up Pipe $60

Throttle Body Hose $25

AccessPort $510

Aisin Water Pump $65

Cabin Air Filter $10

Oil Filters $35

ARP Head Studs $175

Mishimoto Radiator $270

Heads Rebuilt $580

Karboy Crank Pulley $85

Oil Crossover Pipe and Hoses $45

Downpipe $260

Injector Serviced by DW $100

DW Fuel Pump $120

Subaru Fuel Filter $65

Turbo Inlet $75

Bosch Oxygen Sensor $75

 

A lot of money into this thing. Hoping the roughness is a quick and easy fix. In communication with a couple tuners right now to see what they think.

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