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99 Legacy 2.2l misfire on Cyl.2- no codes


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Hi,

We have a 1-owner 99 Legacy L 30th Anniv. sedan w/ 2.2l 5mt.

308,967 miles and has just started INTERMITTENTLY dropping Cyl. #2- carbon fouled plug (last 500 miles, very light local use since July 10th.)

Timing belt job last done @ 239K miles. Plug wires replaced @ 242K miles and pulled NGK Iridiums & replaced w/ E3 plugs- increase in gas mileage seen... but these had less than 29K on them and it returned. Replaced E3's w/ NGK Irridium plugs @ 260K, now @ 308,900 Cyl 1&4 seriously degraded tips, Cyl 3 half worn, & Cyl 2 slight worn & carbon fouled. Diamond 4 pin input coil (secondary resistance is 12.70 & 12.78), can't check primary resistance. Plug wire resistance (all 4) are in the 10570 to 10970 ohm range. Just replaced all 4 plugs w/ NGK Vgrooves & ran 85 miles HWY speeds yesterday & pulled them this morning- Still carbon fouling #2. Injector on Cyl #2 sounds like it is working correctly. So, guesses as to replacing the coil or injector first or some other culprit? Pop suggests maybe a burnt valve... (If so, since only 500 miles since this miss started, think Seafoam or some other treatment might "cure" this possibility before I sink money into a coil or pulling the motor to swap a salvage head onto it?) I know it is VERY high miles, but it's my daily Driver for a family of 4 w/ two working parents....... & Just sank $1,500 into plumbing issues at home in the past 2 weeks...... Thoughts please?

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+1.

 

Why can't you check the primary resistance of the coil?

 

I posted the FSM procedure for checking the injectors and coils here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-member-former-lurker-looking-help-198824.html

 

Hopefully it's not a burnt valve. But is possible to replace the head with the engine in the bay.

 

I guess you could try some injector cleaner but it probably won't fix the problem. Won't hurt though.

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Hello;

Carbon fouling would indicate to me a bad injector. Did you check the resistance? Should be around 13.5 ohms, Steven.

 

Bought a compression tester to check on burnt valve theory- & checked Injector resistance (Haynes manual states 5-20 Ohms)

Cyl1-180psi; 12.75 Ohms

Cyl2-210psi; 12.70 Ohms

Cyl3-190psi; 12.60 Ohms

Cyl4 185psi; 12.80 Ohms

 

Thought that the highest pressure in #2 rules out burnt valve in #2....

 

Checked Crank Sensor resistance 2050 ohms (1-4K spec)

Checked Cam Sensor resistance 2010 ohms (1-4K spec)

 

Bought new Intermotor Coil from AdvancedAutoParts (List price $148.00)

 

Checked Timing (can't read/find any mark on crank pulley, used Compression guage then feeler to set TDC in Cyl. 1...- Driver side Cam (Cyl 2&4) @ TDC marks approx. 6 to 8 Deg. Before TDC

 

STILL stumbling miss & seems to backfire at times @ low RPM/speed

 

STILL NO TROUBLE CODES!?!

 

Guessing either blocked/clogged injector tip in Cyl. 2 or bad plug wires although they are in (3)or 300ohms (1) over spec & not that old...

 

Considering new NGK Plug wires from Advanced...... don't want to throw a blank check at this... yet.......

Thoughts, ideas.suggestions or help in the Lehigh Valley/Pocono/N. Jersey region???

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Checked Timing (can't read/find any mark on crank pulley, used Compression guage then feeler to set TDC in Cyl. 1...- Driver side Cam (Cyl 2&4) @ TDC marks approx. 6 to 8 Deg. Before TDC
this is not how you check compression on these engines.

 

you want ot remove the black cam timing belt covers,

one on each side of the engine, 3 bolts each.

rotate the crank by hand until the timing hash marks are pointing straight up, 12 oclock.

if both cam timing marks are the same,

then you need to look at the crank sprocket.

but my guess is that they are not the same.

 

PS: what makes you think #2 is missing if you have no codes.

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+1.

 

Why can't you check the primary resistance of the coil?...

 

Diamond 4pin connector coil- internal trigger- (due to 5MT? or maybe Calif. Emissions...?)Not the 3 pin in the technique shown or the Haynes manual.

 

BTW- also changed Fuel Filter to help rule out a fuel supply problem....

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this is not how you check compression on these engines.

 

you want ot remove the black cam timing belt covers,

one on each side of the engine, 3 bolts each.

rotate the crank by hand until the timing hash marks are pointing straight up, 12 oclock.

if both cam timing marks are the same,

then you need to look at the crank sprocket.

but my guess is that they are not the same.

 

PS: what makes you think #2 is missing if you have no codes.

 

I know it isn't how to check compression, as I was trying to find TDC in Cyl. #1 & used the compression gauge to find when it was on the compression stroke, then used wood dowel to be sure it was fully up the bore. (Rusty original 309K mile crank pulley, can't easily find Timing Mark)

 

It is a 2.2L SOHC motor, so I can pull the Driver side access to the cam sprocket- 3 bolts, but can't pull the other piece (covers the other 90% as this has a 2pc cover, not like the DOHC motors, w/o pulling off the crank pulley....

 

#2 is missing because after changing all I have stated above, it still is stumbling and still has a miss. NEW Plugs w/ 100 miles HWY on Cyl's. 1,3 & 4 were tan & clean, not white. #2 old & new plugs both carbon blackened when pulled. Swapped plug wires Cyls. 2 & 4 before changing to brand new coil, no difference. Haven't drivern her more than a mile w/ new coil, still running the same and plugs won't tell me anything yet.

 

So that's how I've gotten to here. My biggest Issue is I would drive it if I was the only one in the car & live w/ the stumble & underpowered response by keeping the RPM's up to mask the issue, but I commute 37 miles one way to work w/ my 2 yr old in the back on the hwy, Poconos to Lehigh Valley M to F. NOT putting the little one in there....

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there is a round plug on the passenger side, an inspection port.

use that to check the timing.

unlike all other car makers,

subaru has put timing marks on the cams and crank,

this means you can check the timing and install the belt with no knowledge of TDC.

 

thew 210 number is unsettling,

but i really do not know what the factory spec is.

all 4 should be within 10% (18 - 20 pts.) of each other.

but i do not think this is a compression problem,

i think it is a timing problem.

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there is a round plug on the passenger side, an inspection port.

use that to check the timing.

unlike all other car makers,

subaru has put timing marks on the cams and crank,

this means you can check the timing and install the belt with no knowledge of TDC.

 

thew 210 number is unsettling,

but i really do not know what the factory spec is.

all 4 should be within 10% (18 - 20 pts.) of each other.

but i do not think this is a compression problem,

i think it is a timing problem.

 

I quickly (and tiredly) tried the plug on the passenger side but could not tell from my angle the other evening. Just remembered I have a angle-adjust mirror in my toolbox (forgot, haven't used in 7 years at least- 'senior moment') will try again tomorrow night! I was surprised #2 was so much higher too, but haven't seen where they should be on a newer engine but w/309K, I was just happy they were in the range they are! Can't figure why 2 was so much higher either.....slightly tighter valve seats or rings?

 

Thanks!

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Both Passenger & Driver Cams are in correct 'phase'- both indicate straight up on TDC @ same time. In good full sun can see timing mark on Crank Pulley- @ 3 to 4 Deg. before TDC when both cams arrows are straight up. Pulled both driver side injectors, both look the same & I already indicated 12.6-12.8 ohms on all 4 injectors.

 

Here's what I'm wondering....Did my last timing belt job get done on the cheap and did he just replace the belt? IF he skipped replacing the tensioner on me @ 239K, could it have slipped/jumped a few teeth on the crank? Would that put me @ 3deg. before TDC instead of 13-20deg. before TDC as Haynes manual suggests? I've drained & pulled the radiator, removed the alternator, and pulled the crank pulley bolt, but need to get a pulley pulling tool as I can't remove it by hand. (I can feel it 'rock' back & forth on the crank key, but can't get it to back off the crank snout, and even a rubber mallet didn't work it forward. Nothing available to push off against either....) Any ideas on the size of the bolts I need to thread into the crank pulley to get it off?

Once I get it apart I'd pull the belt & put it back into proper time by the manual & bolt it up if it's jumped a tooth or two, replacing the tensioner in the process.

 

If it isn't that, then I guess a new set of wires & maybe a pair of driver's side injectors.....otherwise I'm stumped here!

 

Thanks,

Mike

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Car was TOTALLY spot on on timing. Put the car back together with new NGK plug wires & drove it around the block- still missing (guessing on Cyl#2. in driveway w/Carbon, not oil fouled.)

 

Letting it cool and was going to crack the pressure on the fuel system & swap #2 & #4 injectors, put clean plugs in both & Highway test drive again. {Didn't do this yet, as Plug #2 was clean.....} ( have 2 sets of new plugs w/ less than 100 miles on them. Put all 4 NGK VGroove plugs in, will highway drive tomorrow night & pull to check...still missing, but easier to keep powered w/ higher revs. Idle is really low when warm)

 

IF it is the injector, the carbon fouling should jump to Cyl.#4. {If not, then is there a way to see if the coil trigger module is bad, Pulled the airbox assembly, don't see it where the Haynes manual states...does a 99 w/Calif.Emissions even have one? Guessing it is built into the Diamond type coil, thus the 4 wires.....} or is there a way to check the signal COMING to injector #2's connector? (checked the Haynes manual- did not see one...) Anybody near Bethlehem or Stroudsburg who can loan me a good stock injector before I go buy a rebuilt or new one to find out if it is the injector?

 

IF it ISN'T any of these three culprits, where should I go next?

I know I am all over the place here, just grasping at straws now...

 

Super frustrated for the first time in 309K miles w/ this car

 

Thanks,

Mike

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..still missing, but easier to keep powered w/ higher revs. Idle is really low when warm)

 

if the miss is bad enough to cause this then it should throw a code.

if it is not throwing a code it may not be a dead miss.

it may be something else?

 

are the valves adjusted correctly?

 

96 - 98 have the igniterr mounted on the fire wall just left, DS, of t he trans mount dogbone.

not sure about the 99 ej22 phase 2 .

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Hello;

Sounds like the injector in #2 hole is faulty. Could be dirty causing it to stay partially open. I would replace this with a junk yard injector instead of switching them out. I use a test light to check to see if the injector is firing or use a noid light. The coil fires two plugs at the same time, so your ignition module should be good. Steven.

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if the miss is bad enough to cause this then it should throw a code.

if it is not throwing a code it may not be a dead miss.

it may be something else?

 

are the valves adjusted correctly?

 

96 - 98 have the igniterr mounted on the fire wall just left, DS, of t he trans mount dogbone.

not sure about the 99 ej22 phase 2 .

 

Dead Miss?

 

Valves SHOULD be adjusted correctly IF my mechanic did as he stated when he changed the TBelt/tensioner/idlers, etc....

 

Guess I have to pull that valvecover (or both) and check myself.

But This is why HE did the job, not me, so I wouldn't have to.......

 

Pretty sure the Phase2 2.2 must have the integrated trigger/ignitor in the coil if I read all correctly...

 

No ignitor on the firewall near the dogbone (no wires up there, just hoses...)

 

Found a 97 2.2L locally, must learn more (see if overdue for timingbelt etc. job) & discuss finances w/ wife for a 'spare' longblock

 

Not sure if it's a direct swap for the 99 Phase 2 longblock?

Happy to swap externals if I don't need to split the heads or case.

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the 97 long block (90 - 98) is not a direct swap into the 99 leog L w/ ej22 phase 2 engine.

the short block will however swap in with your heads and intake.

 

the only direct swap engines are 99 - 00/1 ej22, legacy or impreza.

 

you could also swap in a 00-03 ej25 SOHC,

but it would take a little modification.

a very little, cam and crank sprockets and intake manifold.

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the 97 long block (90 - 98) is not a direct swap into the 99 leog L w/ ej22 phase 2 engine.

the short block will however swap in with your heads and intake.

 

the only direct swap engines are 99 - 00/1 ej22, legacy or impreza.

 

you could also swap in a 00-03 ej25 SOHC,

but it would take a little modification.

a very little, cam and crank sprockets and intake manifold.

 

Thanks for the clarification John! I thought I had a limited pool to pull from for the longblock approach. No garage currently to pull off a disassembly & rebuild, working from a stone driveway & trying to keep it simple.

Not going the 2.5 route due to bad previous experience, but if money were no object I'd love to consider a 2.35 Stroker project......Maybe this will wind up being it's final outcome if I do a bolt-in swap.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I thank you all very much for your help and suggestions!

Turns out it WAS a bad injector, got a rebuilt one in & it runs right again!

Wow, what a pain to diagnose this in my driveway though!

I'm going to start looking for a spare/backup engine for this car, as I think I can get 400K out of the chassis if I am lucky (& the stock motor can become a candidate for a 2.35 project later!)

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