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equal length headers, and why you should get em.


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GTSpec stopped production.

 

Wrapping headers works when done right. Rarely do I see it done right. To do it right takes far more time, effort and material than most are willing to put in (as well as a sealant to stop oil impregnation and fires). The returns are also not all that worth the time, effort and expense (imho). I am a big fan of coating.

 

Unrelated to headers, but does that apply to downpipes also?

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Unrelated to headers, but does that apply to downpipes also?

 

It does, but they do run cooler so that helps. Still though moisture can get trapped and cause the metal to rust underneath it (even stainless). The reason you wrap a downpipe is to avoid it melting surrounding parts.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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It is more than difficult to get wrap properly stretched and tight enough on the pipes. Especially when trying to wrap individual pipes of a Subaru header. I try to explain to walk in customers that it will cost more in my labor to properly wrap than it will to coat.
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Agree ^ I removed the heat shield by the oil filter and just tried to wrap some DEI heat wrap around it best I could. Not a easy thing to get it all covered.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Subaru header can't be more difficult to wrap then my old header was....

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Sentra%20SE-L/Performance/NA%20Only/Header/Heat%20Wrap/CIMG0614.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Sentra%20SE-L/Performance/NA%20Only/Header/Heat%20Wrap/CIMG0616.jpg~original

 

After about 8 years I finally removed it because I got tired of having fiberglass fibers in the engine bay (on that car the rad fan blows on the header). I will never use fiberglass based wrap again due to the pain, only will use titanium based ones...

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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hmm, I coat and wrap all my exhaust to the end of the downpipe (and I admit i'm thinking of rattle can coating my mid and y pipe and probably wrapping it, and have already coated my mufflers). the mouth of the cobb was my first unique challenge, but I figured a way to do it and it's still nice and tight. wrapping the OEM manifolds was tougher than the bellmouth, but I still covered it all and got ties to hold it in place just fine. then added back the sheet metal covers for good measure (after cleaning and spraying them silver with a rattle can). it's been a few years for some and it still looks as good as the day I put it on. and I think the longest part of the process was taking the parts off and putting them back on the car. wrapping takes some thinking about how to best approach it, but not long to do the job and do it well. granted, the time and cost I didn't get back in efficiency or power, but I don't think any of my mods really make financial sense.

 

plan to coat, wrap and install a set of JDM headers soon too (for the "equal length" improvement over the stock parts).

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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  • 3 years later...
Coating does the same "job" as wrap. Even coated or wrapped many headers will melt teh plastic splash tray.

 

I have 1 set of V1 KillerB headers stashed. I have 6 sets of V2 on order... delivery delayed again.

 

KillerB melt the splash guard also? Even if coated? Currently on stock turbo.

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M Sprank, care to chime in your thoughts on the newer Perrin E4 (I think they’re calling it?) equal length header? Wondering if it’s a decent choice compared to their initial offering back in the day. Still 304, not 321 like the Killer B but was considering it for my track car. Would get it coated instead of wrapping it I think...
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Sprank can still give his 2 cents (obviously), but one thing to keep in mind is primary diameter. you actually want a small diameter on the pre-turbo piping (along with equal length - but equal length is more than just literal length; bends also come into play).

 

depending on HP and Tq that you're after, and the turbo you've got, primary size is pretty important.

 

the reason is that you want high velocity/pressure hitting the turbine, and low pressure on the turbine exit (free flowing exhaust).

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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I have tested the Perrin headers on a BIG build. Like 35psi on pump gs MONSTER build. Not a fan. KillerB all the way.

 

With a KillerB pan the Perrin headers are SCARY close to the pan. With a Perrin oil cooler the Perrin headers are SCARY close to the oil filter (touching!!!!). I had to coat the headers and then reflective tape the oil pan, reroute the oil cooler, then switch oil filters to a Tokyo Roki to make some clearance.

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Were these fitment issues the newer E4 Perrin headers or their old design? I’m also not looking at their “big tube” ones just the standard size version. It seems like they spent some time reworking the collector on the E4 to be more like the Killer B although it’s still not a cast piece hence the cheaper price.
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New design.

 

Perrin makes decent products. Do some research on who the company "is", who engineers the parts, who makes the parts etc. There is a LOT more to the story from MANY of the larger brands. Alta Performance.

 

KillerB is a much smaller company that is trying to grow. Until recently much of the products were made by a single gentleman.

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