Nightmaresmk Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Nice. they must have left the r180 input piece the spec b is r160 input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Nice. they must have left the r180 input piece the spec b is r160 input. Yeah that makes sense. It looks like the driveshaft was a modified 04-05 sti unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 IT DRIVES!! Finally got it done last night - it started up first time, and everything seems to be working as it should! After bedding in the brakes (which are super solid and easy to modulate), I drove it around for a while on the twisties with my eyeballed alignment. Even on the initial tune, the car feels extremely fast and much smoother than stock. I can't wait until I can shift over 4000 RPM - breaking in the new clutch is a real test of patience. The handling is super crisp, and the car changes direction like it never has before. The turn-in is incredible, but I haven't had a safe chance to test how neutral the car is at the limit. I'm guessing I'll be upgrading to 500# rear springs at some point. A fuel line popped off by the intake manifold on one of the pulls - I'm not sure if it was installed incorrectly or of the quick connect fitting is damaged. I guess I'll find out soon enough. No fire, just a little scare. I can't wait to get my alignment and start the tuning process with Bren! Photos to follow sometime in the coming week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 13, 2014 Moderators Share Posted August 13, 2014 Nicely done! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Nice need more pics. wagons ftw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 post your dyno if you do that Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 post your dyno if you do that There are no plans to get the car on a dyno, but a local shop does host awd dyno days from time to time so I might end up with some numbers someday. I think I'll be just driving and enjoying this thing for a while after that long a build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Why not get it dyno tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Why not get it dyno tuned. Cost. There are one or two decently reputable shops in town, but the difference it would make isn't worth it to me (if anyone disagrees, please chime in - I'd like to know if I'm making a wrong decision). Nobody specialises in subaru here, now that Rocket Rally has closed its doors to the public. The car is driving well, I'm hoping to get my first log in this weekend and start the tuning process. I'm getting an alignment tomorrow, and have been doing a little prep work: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190294&stc=1&d=1408633985 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 The original drive shaft u had issues with looks like an older OEM wrx version maybe an older sti. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Cost. There are one or two decently reputable shops in town, but the difference it would make isn't worth it to me (if anyone disagrees, please chime in - I'd like to know if I'm making a wrong decision). Nobody specialises in subaru here, now that Rocket Rally has closed its doors to the public. The car is driving well, I'm hoping to get my first log in this weekend and start the tuning process. I'm getting an alignment tomorrow, and have been doing a little prep work: If you come south of the border, InFront (was Outback) Automotive in Auburn can do dyno tune for you. I had mine road tuned, then dyno tuned. The dyno showed it was making too much power and it was too peaky. After dyno tuning, tq was nice & flat. If you are going to autox, it's worth it to find out if you removed the stumble in the 3-4k range, and to smooth out the tq curve Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 All the huge money into building this thing and getting it dyno tuned is too expensive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 OP needs to ping Gire who should be able to help find a shop in Vancouver. Given the number of hotrod performance cars that come down from BC, I can't believe none of them ever were dyno'ed. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 All the huge money into building this thing and getting it dyno tuned is too expensive? It's always been on a budget , and I never did enough research into dyno tuning vs e-tuning. For my needs, the e-tune route will hold me over for a while, and when the budget allows I'll head down to Washington for a dyno tune. I've talked to a few shops around here and they generally suggest going south of the border. Sorry for the lack of updates, the shop is having trouble getting my rear alignment in spec. Rear toe was at -6 degrees (no, not -0.6) when I rolled in, and they can only get it as far as -3. We're trying to figure out what the problem is - has anyone had trouble with the JDM STi pillowball links?? Installation error is definitely possible, though I don't think I stuck any washers between the hubs and trailing arms... I'd really prefer not to go with the Whiteline adjustable arms if I have the option. The winter destroyed the powder coat on my sway bars in 6 months (great product, just apparently not suited for this climate). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 A good powder coat will last. Cusco has a crappy powder coat perrin a really good one. i have a local powder coater that does an amazing job. it takes a jet blaster to get his off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Quick Update I've been popping back and forth from the shop while they try to get everything straight. The subie's been in three times and it still pulls to the right - might be time to head out to another shop. Anyway, I touched up a couple photos I took when it was completed. I'll add more as they come. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190849&stc=1&d=1409291644 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190850&stc=1&d=1409291649 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190851&stc=1&d=1409291649 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190852&stc=1&d=1409291649 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190853&stc=1&d=1409291982 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190854&stc=1&d=1409291649 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190855&stc=1&d=1409291649 Edited August 29, 2014 by legacybt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Little update looking for a bit of advice. I've been E-tuning the car and it's not able to run much timing at all. I did a boost leak check with a medium-warm engine, and air was flowing like crazy out the oil filler cap. I'm going to be doing a full leakdown test, but this could be turning into an engine rebuild/swap thread soon.... Opinion time: For the same price, would you a) buy a OEM shortblock, do the usual replacement/head machining yada yada yada b) buy a built, sleeved, freshly assembled, ported stroker long block and put the VF52 & OEM LGT gear back on. I don't have lofty power goals (happy around an eventual 300whp) and I want reliability. I just bought an apartment and have monthly payments to hit. The appeal of dropping in a built block with way less labour than taking the OEM short block route is definitely there... Does anyone care to chime in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Another option is an ej207 v7 long block swap just the long block. swap the intake cams and use everything else from your car. intake sensors etc. Gives you factory forged pistons and 8k redline and better flowing heads. A fast spooling vf52 on an 207 would move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 If building a custom block and upgrading at the same time, you'll find costs start to climb very quickly. That "one more inexpensive part" leads to a cascade of "must-haves". Speaking as someone did that. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Hence stock motors win. stock ej207 v7. well known for being able to handle 450whp on a daily with a good tune for a very long time. it's a very stout motor. A ej257 in stock and mild build form is very weak in comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Make sure you check the rules as well. It doesn't appear you really had a targeted class to race in, but swapping motors to something non oem or an oem equivalent can dump you into classes where a street car is not competitive at all. And yes I am aware the trans swap probably already put you into those high classes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liljonson Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Yea I already seeing it being not very competitive without a set of Hoosiers and even at that point it will be tough but it does look it will be a crowd favorite and a blast to drive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Thanks for the opinions! Classing is very much a non-consideration. I'm just building a fun-to-drive wagon that won't be an absolute slug out on the course. I like the idea of the reliable power on a ej207, but combined with my LWFW and the super hilly area I live in, I couldn't take the hit in low-down torque. I'm sticking to a 2.5L block. At this point I'm looking into the cheapest route I can for reliable power. It seems to me like the Heuberger OEM shortblock route is most likely, but it still ends up being around $4000 to do properly (remember, I'm in Canada - anything I buy has currency conversion and import tax). I'll update this as decisions are made - until then I'm going to drive the snot out of it and enjoy it for what I built it for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xruffxryderz91 Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 I would spend the $4k on something stronger. celtic motorsports here in Orange County has a fully built closed deck short block for $3,750. You could then port your heads, with new cams and valves and be good for about 700whp (on the block). Even if you don't do the extra steps you're still getting reassurance and safety from a closed deck for a good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Rebuilt-Closed-Deck-Shortblock-EJ257-2-5L-STi-Block-Forged-Pistons-Rods-/330735882670 Vader from NASIOC is running a closed deck at 900whp.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 27, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 27, 2014 So you had air coming out of the filler cap? Isn't that normal? If the car is running and you remove the filler cap you'll get constant puffing of air there. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now