nixican Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Ive been assuming that I have build up on my front rotors because of a nasty shudder I get when braking. The rotors are fairly new, (purchased in Oct 2012) and they dont see much more than street driving. I will be replacing the rotors and pads at all four corners in the next week or so just in case its more than just build up but Im wondering if brakes are my only issue (or my issue at all). I just realized that I feel the shudder in my steering wheel only, I cant seem to notice any shudder in the pedal at all. Is that normal? Is it indicative of a larger problem than just brakes? There is no steering wheel shudder driving, only on braking. Thanks for your input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ras06LGT Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Before just replacing stuff, try to re-bed your brakes and see if that helps. That could help determine if it's just deposits or something else. If the deposits are bad enough, you can try having the rotors turned provided there is enough material left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon20D Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I have the same problem and it's been on BOTH my Lgts. The caliper is starting to stick and gives uneven pressure from left to right causing the wheels to want to turn the car. Alignment says no and they fight back and forth. I'll link my thread where someone posted a refurb kit. Have yet to do it to this car but it fixed it in a hurry when i replaced my seized caliper last time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon20D Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224765 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I have the same problem and it's been on BOTH my Lgts. The caliper is starting to stick and gives uneven pressure from left to right causing the wheels to want to turn the car. Alignment says no and they fight back and forth. I'll link my thread where someone posted a refurb kit. Have yet to do it to this car but it fixed it in a hurry when i replaced my seized caliper last time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk We are starting to see more and more bad calipers lately on this vintage of vehicle here in the NY/NJ area due to the salt, time and road conditions here. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon20D Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Do you replace with new, or rebuilt, or would the refurb kit for $15 be sufficient? Whats the next 'best' upgrade for a set of calipers if you have to replace them? I think the SS lines are required to move up to anything with 2 POT right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Do you replace with new, or rebuilt, or would the refurb kit for $15 be sufficient? Whats the next 'best' upgrade for a set of calipers if you have to replace them? I think the SS lines are required to move up to anything with 2 POT right? We generally will just replace caliper with a new or rebuilt one. It doesn't pay to rebuild it ourselves by the time we charge the customer labor they can have a completely new one. They are relatively inexpensive and worth the money. These calipers are 2-pot/1-pot. I would go to SS lines before going to 4-pot/2-pot setup. To be honest unless you are racing your LGT the brakes on this car are plenty big for street duty and even track duty with the proper pads. I see you are in NJ, if you wanted us to replace your calipers or anything just ask. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon20D Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Ill have see what the rebuild looks like. This is just my DD.. Im all for just having you do it, you did my clutch on my last LGT.. but if I can get away with a DIY rebuild for $40... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixican Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Thanks for the info Canon. I get the same pedal feel (not as much shudder on heavy or light load). Now I need to determine what the cause is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garage1217 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I have had the same issue which was cured 100% with new tires. Does not feel like glazed rotors, but you feel it in the steering wheel. Replaced the tires and it is gone. Has happened on a few of my vehicles over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs6er Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I recently had the same experience with my 2001 Suburban. Replaced the tires and all was well (Until the tranny went!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks for the info Canon. I get the same pedal feel (not as much shudder on heavy or light load). Now I need to determine what the cause is. The first thing to do is rebed the brakes its free and may work. Do 4 or 5 almost stops from 50mph, stand on the brakes hard just short of lock up. Don't stop the car, repeat 4 more times, drive the car for a mile without touching the brakes. Years ago lots of had this issue, it was the crappy OEM pads, we changed to Hawk HPS or other pads and the issue stopped. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixican Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 So, I replaced the pads, front and rear and did an extensive bed in process. As part of the pad changeout I also regreased the guide pins. I still get some shudder but its almost always on light to medium pedal pressure. This is also intermitant. It happens more often than not, but its still not every single time. This tells me that its not warped rotors but something in the caliper. Does this sound about right? What ever I did seems to have helped a bit but Im still not satisfied yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 It sounds like you did not have the rotors re-surfaced, were they ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixican Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 No I did not. I wanted to try the bed in first. But like I said, it is not something that happens all the time, it is intermittent. Wouldn't that eliminate a warped rotor issue? The rotors are not super old either. Centric premiums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon20D Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Sounds like calipers to me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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