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Resurrect Subie Wan Kenobi


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Yeah, that's definitely new SB business, right there. Keenster, I would compare your cost to rebuild your block -- Boring and honing, new pistons and bearings, etc -- to the cost of an OEM block ($1645 from Heuberger, or ~$1800 shipped; $2081 to-your-door with gasket kit, which, you'll need anyway). I'm fairly certain you'll be just fine with a new block and a new turbo. Follow the rebuild formula, it's the path to happiness.
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*I updated my part list on the first post*

RTFM for putting the RTV. It's crystal clear. Sometimes I have to wonder if these shops even read the manual.

 

Manuals and checklists are for those who want to do it right the first time.

 

 

As for that motor, you likely had cracked ringlands on 2 & 4. It's possible that you had a major pre-detonation event when the turbo failed, but I would be willing to bet you had a lot of knock recorded in the tables and the car drove around jerky even with the turbo working.

 

I'd throw it all out and spend time building up a new shortblock with your heads inspected and/or rebuilt.

 

word

 

just still nervous about putting it all back together. this project separates the men from the boys

 

but the vacation pics have been a great source! ;)

ive striped a few bolts here and there, meh, whatever, I'm keeping track of em all.

 

Yeah, that's definitely new SB business, right there. Keenster, I would compare your cost to rebuild your block -- Boring and honing, new pistons and bearings, etc -- to the cost of an OEM block ($1645 from Heuberger, or ~$1800 shipped; $2081 to-your-door with gasket kit, which, you'll need anyway). I'm fairly certain you'll be just fine with a new block and a new turbo. Follow the rebuild formula, it's the path to happiness.

 

Yeah you convinced me a while ago to go with a new shorty. I've just been taking my time on this. Taking notes, separating everything into labled baggies. But i know the whole forged internals is a bit of a overpriced thing, but i am still considering going oem sized forged for the new block. I stopped at Summit Racing the other day and asked about the manley ones and it's right around $530 bones.... Not too bad i thought. They also had them there in stock and brought them out to me. They were purddy

 

Lately I've been bead blasting hard lines and have been painting them and then baking them. just staying busy with this.

 

this is what i get for never getting off the stock tune...

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Lately I've been bead blasting hard lines and have been painting them and then baking them. just staying busy with this.

 

this is what i get for never getting off the stock tune...

 

:lol: Best way to stay busy on a build!

 

I didn't see a Cobb AP on there for the parts list. . ?

 

Have you decided on a turbo yet? Have you sent a PM to JmP to discuss your needs?

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Yeah the cobb AP should be on there, figured it's a given. im not doing OS. Screw that noise. I was thinking going BNR 18g turbo-wise though. I'm not worried so much about numbers in this build but mainly on how well all the new parts will work together. Just let the tuner do what they do best.

JmP has not heard from me yet. not sure what i should discuss though lol. i think he's semi close to me because in Box kitten HG thread he said he wasn't too far from Ohio. Too bad he's a got a family, otherwise I would whore out for his help.

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Yeah the cobb AP should be on there, figured it's a given. im not doing OS. Screw that noise. I was thinking going BNR 18g turbo-wise though. I'm not worried so much about numbers in this build but mainly on how well all the new parts will work together. Just let the tuner do what they do best.

JmP has not heard from me yet. not sure what i should discuss though lol. i think he's semi close to me because in Box kitten HG thread he said he wasn't too far from Ohio. Too bad he's a got a family, otherwise I would whore out for his help.

 

He rebuilds the 40s very well, and can do larger, if you like. Quality work. I'm personally running one of his upgraded VF40s and it's awesome. I love it.

 

 

Always a good read!

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I read this about a year ago. im glad you brought it up. you guys always keeping me on track!

 

just over thinking shit.. i know it's all in the tune. I really dont want to do this again...

Edited by keenster
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  • 4 months later...
Update time. Heads are all good to go. Nothing burned up and no warpage. Holds compression and this will be the THIRD engine these sluts have been with. The shop is replacing the valve seals and cam seals. I've ordered a bunch of parts (updated on first post) and all I have to get is my short block and turbo and a few little things. still going with the BNR 18g. my goal is to be done by the end of may. Replaced just about everything i can. I'm so ready to start on this thing. Spt exhaust coming soon too.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I pulled the car out of storage Saturday and felt all warm inside. It's been about a year since I've seen it. That day I pulled out the stock fuel pump and dropped the DW 65c in. No problems on the install. I had a full tank of gas too so it was just a bit messy but nothing bad. I also installed a new brush assembly on the back of the starter. I broke the copper wire that runs out the back. The brush assembly was like $23 which is better than a new starter. I also pulled out the stock FPR. The quick connects were a pain in the neck to get off. I bought the tool to disconnect them and it didn't work. so I fabbed up my own tool out of .025 shim laying around in the shop. I installed the STI pedals I purchased from a member on here. And started putting the fuel rails on the TGVs.

 

The heads did get a valve job done to them. The guy at the shop said three were leaking on each head. They took only .004 off to clean them up. I don't think .004 is enough to get a bigger head gasket. So any input on that would be cool.

 

Anyone in NE Ohio need a good machine shop that does subie heads, go to Gregs Machine Shop in Copley. They do great work and they are Park Subaru's head repair shop.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/c48fb062ebf7b465b14a5d1a09897ab8.jpg

 

I then started with the differential bushing. I took out the exhaust system, drive shaft, and the shield. I strapped a ratchet strap to the starter hole and attached it to the tow motor to hold the front end of the transmission in place. Then I disconnected the pitch stop. I then lowered the transmission with a small piece of plywood, a 4X4, and a jack. I unbolted the housing and pulled it off. Broke one bolt during this too.

I purchased the bushings used off a member here but they were in worse shaped then I thought. Probably happened when they got hammered out. They were tapered and wollered out. The ID of the bushings had a .010 of a gap in between the pins and bushings. And according to Frankster and Climber's write up, that wasn't to spec. So I got on Mcmaster Carr and bought a foot of 544 Bronze alloy for $30 and I am gonna make them myself. Thanks to my girlfriend's dad's machine shop this option was way cheaper than buying them.

 

We are keeping the ID to .005 over sized to allow oiling. this would be within spec. Plus a fresh new bushing made myself!

I'll post pics of the finished product.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/fe415f36cfa08c43fb09f5d074dd2661.jpg

 

The DW rails are pretty sexy. Probably wont see much of them when they are installed on the car.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/9b20f95eec00ed8ea753881570fd4af9.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/24654e978f05fc0446e5166296fdd583.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/ed61b2c1859d17ef4f9ade2c5c7ee302.jpg

 

 

I finally purchased the shortblock today from Heuberger (thanks Tris) along with the gasket kit and half moons. All shipped to the shop for $2093.68!!!!

Edited by keenster
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Holy Jaysus. You win the award for Biggest Shop To Do Your Rebuild In!

 

Nice rails, too.

Thanks Namen. The shop is nice to have instead of bumping into crap in a garage. plus I can make stuff here. like the QD tool and bushing! :icon_cool I enjoyed your edit on the shopping list! lol :rolleyes: I really needed to look at it today when ordering my Shorty:spin:

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Thanks Namen. The shop is nice to have instead of bumping into crap in a garage. plus I can make stuff here. like the QD tool and bushing! :icon_cool I enjoyed your edit on the shopping list! lol :rolleyes: I really needed to look at it today when ordering my Shorty:spin:

 

There is a version 2.0, the link in my sig is upated..

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Here is how I made my own differential bushings. Which if I do believe I am the second person on this site to make their own. I can also make these up for other member too if anyone is interested. They will be cheaper than the others on this site since they're not being sent out to be done. I am also going to do an in depth write up on how to make these.

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/337ac1b8cb3a6d34b48af8ec58ca3743.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/fdbf4ed532a197cd9584976795b37e52.jpg

 

After drilling and reaming, the pin fits perfect with .005" in between the pin and the bushings. This is to allow oil to lubricate the bushing.

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/2e0108c6e14c242ba960f186da84eab5.jpg

 

The new ones vs. the old ones I purchased used.

The ones I bought had a belly in the middle and some were up to .011" for the bushing ID. Too big for my liking.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/a78e177da5bddf600e60cf4dfe3257e2.jpg

 

I even made my own tool to press fit them in perfectly

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/1c2960ed129b04d3947891f553424857.jpg

 

I put the bushings in the freezer for an hour and the gears in the heat treat furnace at 250 degrees for an hour.

 

I then used a vise and the tool I made to press the bushings into the gear

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/37ecbd0b6b58d9d90eb53c9250ec3a74.jpg

 

The bushing tool sits flush with the top of the gear.

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/e1beece01d0765985f207e7177688e14.jpg

 

The finished product installed

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/f7e9803d2aa525c541143974157c207f.jpg

 

Here's a pic of a portion of the shop

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/fb32147e22c818515a496d2ea43cb29d.jpg

 

I just finished installing these into the differential and bolted the tranny brace, drive shaft, and heat shield.

 

Now I sit and wait for this engine to come in the mail.

 

How long did it take others for Heuberger to ship the short block?

Edited by keenster
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It's finally here!

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/d82ab6ac2c06622de2848c99695968da.jpg

 

Some max capacity dragon skin

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/19d3961a94078720bafede5573523c35.jpg

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The box looked a little sketchy but I didn't let him leave till I checked it all out. The top rear dowel on passenger side had a slight bend in it. But nothing I couldn't fix. I just turned over a little tool on the lathe and kind of tapped it in. Looks perfect now.

 

It came in cardboard and foam with wood on the bottom. I thought for sure it would have been crated.

Edited by keenster
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So those bushings and gears are in the diff? But the bushings wear out and need to be replaced?

I to shall wait for the right up. Lol

I have no idea what any of that for, or what problem that it fixes even. Lol

I have yet to research driveline problems

"Build" Thread <--Link

(OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW)

Forever Slow

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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So those bushings and gears are in the diff? But the bushings wear out and need to be replaced?

I to shall wait for the right up. Lol

I have no idea what any of that for, or what problem that it fixes even. Lol

I have yet to research driveline problems

 

They're equivalent to the Hexmods Center Diff bushings, which, only kinda-saves your center diff when (attempting to) launching.

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