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Resurrect Subie Wan Kenobi


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Also, while Flatirons is another great Colorado Subaru dealership (I bought my Cobb DP from them!), they don't have the volume pricing discount that Heuberger does.

 

Flatirons is $18something, while Heuberger is $1645. For that same $18something at Flatirons, you could get the shortblock, plus the gasket kit for your year car. (O5's PN gasket kit ends 0720. .) at Heuberger's. Should be just under $2100 shipped to your door.

 

 

I'll most likely go that route! 👍 thanks for that tip there. Also I have most gaskets already. for manifold (above and below tgvs), valve cover (felpro), every exhaust gasket from headers back ( most grimmspeed and thicker where applicable), but I'm sure I'm missing a bunch for the block which in that case, I still should get the oem set and hold on to the extras in case someone needs one or something. I think it would be a good idea to get a set of heavy duty head gaskets too.

 

for a street car, because bling

for a race car, because high rpm for long time

for a endurance/rally race car, because more time between rebuilds

 

For what its worth, mine has neither of these bragging rights. Cosworth offers nitriding in its 9k rpm blocks. If I was going to build out another block, for racing, I'd probably invest in Swaintech's coating processes first.

 

 

If I can get a block with the nitrated crank for the same price as one without then I think I win for bling and longevity factor. 😎

 

Really interested to see where this build goes. Lots of great advice being tossed around from MrTris and Boxkita and hobo2701 all who have very respectable builds. Personally I agree with you about enjoying the twisty roads and not so much the fast straight line freeway stuff. I am currently in the process of tuning for "Stage 2" and already and happy with my power levels. The next things I will be looking at are larger sways, poly bushings, and a ton more suspension components and then also a Brembo kit as stopping is important as well. Really curious to see how this build turns out and what the engine is capable of and what you end up tuning it for.

 

 

Thanks dude. Suspension is something I'm already planed on doing, just really havent talked about it much since we've been on topic about wether to go forged or oem lol I really appreciate all the help and motivation from everyone on here. My goal is by spring to have this hunk put back together! With everything done to it, suspension, engine, brakes, and a few minor aesthetics.

 

It's easy to want more :D. More power, more handling, more stopping power. It's never ending.

 

Although for brakes Brembo's are mostly bling. Boxita tracked his OEM brakes and only had issues because he needed better cooling.

 

Nothing wrong with bling though...

 

 

It's an addiction. It's encoded in our DNA unfortunately 😏

 

Ya I highly reccomend proper suspension mods and a mild brake upgrade mostly braided lines and a good pad combo will be a huge upgrade from stock

 

 

Word. Although if I remember I have leaky caliper. Either I rebuild it or buy a set of new calipers and tell myself it's just money. I can always make more 😁

 

Hopefully I can get back on pipeline again this coming spring!

 

Another thing. Someone mentioned a new or upgraded oil cooler, question on that. Can I run and auxiliary oil cooler through a sandwich plate in the oil filter location an run the unit to the front or is the sandwich plate for other applications.

 

Ordering more parts next week.

 

And since I'll most likely ordering another block, I'll be doing everything myself besides head work. Although could do it at the shop but I want the pros to look at it. Not my GF dad who owns the tool and die shop lol

Edited by keenster
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Oh and every car I own has a turbo. Love this car it's pretty fun for DD

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/23/63cf1c97f89d526c9f01caadd73952fd.jpg

 

 

1989 Ford probe GT

One owner (drove roughly 6k a year)

No rust no dents interior is in prime shape

2.2 turbo

5 speed

Electronic tuned suspension

6 lbs of boost

 

700 bones!

 

Guy also gave me the old dealership shop manual on it. About three and a half inches thick. Gave me a service manual and a car cover as well. The car is real fun to drive I don't rip on very much but I do take corners hard. (Outside, inside the apex and shoot for the outside when I see the straight ;) )

Pretty peppy but not legacy fast.

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Is there any significance to having some of these hard lines? Would it be okay to replace with silicone hoses? And if heat is a problem where these hard lines are then could i wrap them? I just don't justify doing a build and then putting rusty lines back in like this one off the oil cooler

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/b1a7083faf2d7d9763ec7329383a6fa8.jpg

 

And what about these hard breather lines and coolant lines can't I just replace with silicone?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/06657e24d8f7f420727fbe9ec6b64cc7.jpg

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Is there any significance to having some of these hard lines? Would it be okay to replace with silicone hoses? And if heat is a problem where these hard lines are then could i wrap them? I just don't justify doing a build and then putting rusty lines back in like this one off the oil cooler

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/b1a7083faf2d7d9763ec7329383a6fa8.jpg

 

And what about these hard breather lines and coolant lines can't I just replace with silicone?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/06657e24d8f7f420727fbe9ec6b64cc7.jpg

 

That hard line is one of the most important parts of your engine. Don't fuss with it. You can scotchbrite and paint it to make it look pretty, but it serves to pass coolant through the oil cooler (top) and turbo (I can't quite make it out of that's the right location). If you must swap it out, use braided stainless steel hose rated for the temperature as to avoid kinks or collapse.

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That hard line is one of the most important parts of your engine. Don't fuss with it. You can scotchbrite and paint it to make it look pretty, but it serves to pass coolant through the oil cooler (top) and turbo (I can't quite make it out of that's the right location). If you must swap it out, use braided stainless steel hose rated for the temperature as to avoid kinks or collapse.

 

 

 

Thanks Compsurge. I'll bead blast and clean up that line. If it's too rusty I'll go braided. Just was wondering

 

And that blurry spot is a chain holding the engine up.

 

Update; bought a engine stand from harbor freight. Went to take off torque converter and stripped two out of four bolts. Getting the Irwin stripped bolt socket set dealio tonight then continuing. I also had a overwhelming feeling last night after that because I got nothing done and there is so much to do. All the rubber hose are old and brittle. Every single bolt head is rusty. I was frustrated on the drive home just the thought of this. But it's all good today. I'm just going to take my time on this project.

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Update; totally striped the bolts on the torque converter. I ended up grinding that skinny plate behind the converter. Got the engine mounted and turned it over and see a ton of scoring where the crank was rubbing against the case. So I'm guessing a spun bearing or more. Plus the turbo shaft snap.

 

If you look against the crank wall you can see the scoring. All the walls are the same. When I took the pulley off though I kept hearing the air squeezing out like it was under compression. Hoping that's a decent sign.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/9209091647ea919994078880c9a29744.jpg

 

Got the time cover off and aiming to take the heads off tomorrow night

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/54f76b73d89a70ed824817065a16e48e.jpg

Edited by keenster
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You can use vise grips and the timing belt (link) to keep tension on the cam pulleys while you get the bolts out. It worked on two engines for me. Others have had problems. I have a set of good hex sockets and I wouldn't try this without them. If it doesn't bulge, it seems that the answer is to whack the bolt head with a hammer and try again (not kidding).

 

I don't know about the crank interference. Intuition tells me that's bad news.

Edited by compsurge
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that scoring looks pretty bad- if the cylinder walls are also scored- you may be better off getting new case halves- or a block from subi- depends what your power goals are.. between parts and labor- re-using the old block may be more than getting a SB shipped to your door
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That's a good call. By the time you're done fiddling around with that one, you might as well get the peace of mind of a new OEM unit.

 

all depends on funds and power goals..

I went the build a SB route- just cause I thought I had more time and I get good prices through my shop- then she started to get alot of piston slap/knock on cold mornings.. :eek:

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that scoring looks pretty bad- if the cylinder walls are also scored- you may be better off getting new case halves- or a block from subi- depends what your power goals are.. between parts and labor- re-using the old block may be more than getting a SB shipped to your door

 

 

Yeah before I really looked at it, I already decided to get a SB thanks to MRTris, hobo, and Compsurge and some reading. A rebuild is a lot of time and money for what I want.

I'm looking to go 300-350HP nothing huge but a fun car.

That's a good call. By the time you're done fiddling around with that one, you might as well get the peace of mind of a new OEM unit.

 

 

Word

 

all depends on funds and power goals..

 

I went the build a SB route- just cause I thought I had more time and I get good prices through my shop- then she started to get alot of piston slap/knock on cold mornings.. :eek:

 

 

What caused all of that noise?

Edited by keenster
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havent looked into it really.. I have a forester for the winter that I happened to be driving to prep for the winter, so its just been sitting.. Chances are its bearing noise- or maybe too much play in wrist pins.. Havent gotten into it at all. This cars been through 2 turbos since I got it- chances are theres been some metal through it.. Even tho when the 2nd went it was out or warranty and I did it- I removed oil pan-oil cooler and everything, but you never really know till you open it up.. I am convinced that this engine has had every major or minor thing wrong with it that these get.

Ringlands are going- verified with scope

Im guessing valves are too tight- have that misfire everyone searches for then does head job

Turbo(s)- I can verify the banjo bolt was nasty when I replaced the last one- suprised Subaru even put a filtered one back in there after the first one

Oil pick-up- verified had small crack in it when I removed oil pan- swapped it at that time

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Got the heads off yesterday. They look pretty solid. Still going to get them checked. I'm going to take that JP guys list with me. The block looks good too. All hatch marks are still visible. One of the Pistons are nasty has gunk all over. Not sure what number it is but I'll show you.

I still plan on getting a new shortblock even though this block seems to be okay. The biggest concern I have is the scoring where the crank is. My girlfriend's dad say that those marks are machined. I disagree. Because the metal is too shiny to have been done before it was put together. And it's fairly deep gouge.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/a76c3608845a3a9274a3ef9215a71c1d.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/56addc57632d2ad906bdb3578efc852e.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/472f8b78964e25d55747964cf669cf66.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/155539a27f7656ba44a952c5ad884c78.jpg

 

Another questions too. There seems to be a lot of that custom gasket stuff all over this block. Like the piece that hold the two cams in place. What is that? And do I use it when I put this back together?

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Fujibond Grey. You can use generic Permatex RTV, but the Fujibond has other additives in it to make it better.

 

Fujibond Red is for the Transmission.

 

 

Machined vs. worn would be a difference. I don't remember what mine looked like (I didn't really look closely). Metal will stay shiny if it's machined and oiled, which is the case for most of the engine ;)

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Fujibond Grey. You can use generic Permatex RTV, but the Fujibond has other additives in it to make it better.

 

Fujibond Red is for the Transmission.

 

 

Machined vs. worn would be a difference. I don't remember what mine looked like (I didn't really look closely). Metal will stay shiny if it's machined and oiled, which is the case for most of the engine ;)

 

 

Okay groovy. The names Bond. FUJI Bond.

I'll take some more pics when I go back to the shop about that worn deal. His argument is that the connecting rods would be worn as well.. Maybe this was a reman when the dealer dropped a "new" shorty in it.

Edited by keenster
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  • 2 weeks later...

So what failed on my catastrophe?

 

Turbo shaft snapped.

Piston 2 and 4 ring lands cracked and broke off.

Rod for piston 3 has quite a bit of side to side play. Not sure if that is normal but it would explain one of the many sounds I heard when the engine went.

 

Piston 4

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/160b494119b3d8e678df2ee475c1f970.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/95a165c01bc1193919ed68a501b370eb.jpg

 

Piston 2

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/ccdd41af0c0b63b4929d9df74e8fefbf.jpg

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Fujibond can be hard to get ahold of, Permatex Ultra Black is preferred by many builders. You really only need it on the VCs and the oil pump, no other places.

 

There shouldn't be any RTV on your cam towers, cam bolts or, actually anywhere near your cams, for that matter. You want the RTV to seal the oil in places it needs to seal and for it to stay there. Floating pieces of RTV can kill a motor.

 

Just witnessed a rebuild come down last weekend after some harsh valve noise. Pulled the VCs and took out the rocker assembly, which revealed a tiny piece of RTV that was clogging an oil port on the lifters.

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RTFM for putting the RTV. It's crystal clear. Sometimes I have to wonder if these shops even read the manual.

 

Manuals and checklists are for those who want to do it right the first time.

 

 

As for that motor, you likely had cracked ringlands on 2 & 4. It's possible that you had a major pre-detonation event when the turbo failed, but I would be willing to bet you had a lot of knock recorded in the tables and the car drove around jerky even with the turbo working.

 

I'd throw it all out and spend time building up a new shortblock with your heads inspected and/or rebuilt.

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