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Yeah, I hadn't read about them, but seeing them mentioned before was in context of manuals. The 5EATs are pretty stout, don't let anyone fool you -- There's at least one guy here running 500whp to his 5EAT - FrkKevin, I believe. (not sure on the number of 'k's, there, haha)
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The blast plates are for the manuals? Or can it be used with the 5eat too?

 

I guess I didn't read enough of your post. I just read "concerned with the tranny" and assumed it was the manual.

 

I think there are a couple options to beef of up the 5eats - but i don't know much about them.

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I guess I didn't read enough of your post. I just read "concerned with the tranny" and assumed it was the manual.

 

I think there are a couple options to beef of up the 5eats - but i don't know much about them.

 

 

Yeah the hex mod. And a tranny cooler. I have two options with the cooler. I can mount it to the bumper with a fan. I saw a kid on Instagram do that. And I also like where you mount it where the top mount would be, which would be a cool so the hood scoop can still be somewhat functional.

 

Any debate about this? I'm leaning towards where the top mount would be. I can fabricate a bracket with a quick disconnect so I can work on the car. And somehow incorporate a rubber bushing to keep the metal on metal noise down.

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@MrTris yeah it's seems the be a good tranny. I was reading the 5eat pride thread to see the numbers on some of these trannys. Just a lot of debating on different parts internally. Thanks mentioning frkKevin. I'll check is stuff out. 👍
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Yeah the hex mod. And a tranny cooler. I have two options with the cooler. I can mount it to the bumper with a fan. I saw a kid on Instagram do that. And I also like where you mount it where the top mount would be, which would be a cool so the hood scoop can still be somewhat functional.

 

Any debate about this? I'm leaning towards where the top mount would be. I can fabricate a bracket with a quick disconnect so I can work on the car. And somehow incorporate a rubber bushing to keep the metal on metal noise down.

 

If you're taking mod ideas from the Center For Selfies, you're doing it wrong.

 

 

@MrTris yeah it's seems the be a good tranny. I was reading the 5eat pride thread to see the numbers on some of these trannys. Just a lot of debating on different parts internally. Thanks mentioning frkKevin. I'll check is stuff out. 👍

 

 

Read some of the other threads about the Hexmods bushings(brass pins?), which, although difficult to install, are also worth it.

 

There's really no need for a fan on your trans cooler, unless you live in hella heat like, 360days out of the year. You should be just fine with an external cooler mounted to the AC condensor.

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Word. But there are pretty groovy Lagacies on their.

 

Here's the two options I was talking about.

(From seligram)

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/15/02f3c518e9a8f9f77f2488f9db6aed63.jpg

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/15/bf0310b3f0fd256d53fd3e5700c0e857.jpg

 

The tranny cooler is tucked under the bumper skin with a fan. This seem like some work though. But it is next to the lines where the hard lines come in at.

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If it requires the removal of the bumper (not just the cover), I wouldn't do it.

 

Well, OP also thinks he's gonna do a FMIC, which is gonna require removal and/or modification of the beam, so, that's still an option. Either way, the bumper skin has to come off, though. The beam is just a whole 'nother thing, though.

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Well, OP also thinks he's gonna do a FMIC, which is gonna require removal and/or modification of the beam, so, that's still an option. Either way, the bumper skin has to come off, though. The beam is just a whole 'nother thing, though.

 

 

Ah yes. But it's a RacerX. No need to remove bumper or fogs. Bazinga!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131072

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For starters u can load windows onto your mac by dividing your hardrive and installing windows so open source is always an option. Not to say ap are bad but having a mac is not a reason to not open source. Second as far as turbos go I would highly reccomend a Borg Warner efr if u want the best of both worlds when it comes to spool/top end power. I really don't know much about the auto slush boxes but i know an handful of ppl on here have pretty high hp/tq levels and seems to be doing just fine. And never forget to not cheap out on suspension because what good is more power without being able to put it down. Hers my shopping list and other fun stuff if you are bored it's been a long expensive road but well worth it and don't let anyone deter you from your goal best of luck !

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swp-cosworth-wagon-203889.html

 

 

 

Thanks man. I'm in the middle of reading your thread. Very inspirational lol. Makes me wanna shrug off the haters lol. I don't feel so bad now for wanting the parts I do. 😎

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I'm along for the ride, too. As soon as I saw date car and track days, I knew it was going to be fun. I hope your dates are ok with walking...

 

As others have said, I hope you have lots of cash or a really good deal with a shop. My local shop has a deal where they put a giant sticker on your car in exchange for a sweetheart deal on pricing. You might ask around.

 

A forged motor can be fun, however, you'll need to keep up on the oil. Also a longer warmup time before doing anything fun with it.

 

If you can get the ClimberD hexmods kit, you'll be money ahead.

 

The catchcan thing is "boy-racer" stuff. Get the Crawford AOS kit and be done with it.

 

If you think you're going to the track, find one of the shops on this forum that built race cars...AZP Installs, etc. Listen to their suggestions & buy from them. YOu'll get a great handling car. Expect to spend a couple grand or more getting the parts and another grand on alignment & corner balance (don't cheap out on the crucial tuning bit).

 

Brakes on the track. Believe it or not, you don't need brembos on the track. Stock calipers will work. Use good pads (track day pads = Hawk DCT 60/70, street pads = Hawk HPS), decent rotors (Centric premium blanks - anything else is bling), and good tires (Michelin Super Sport or Dunlop Dirrezza are great summer/track tires, BFG R1 or Hoosier R6 for slicks). For wheels, get a second set. Your track tires will last a lot longer if you are not drifting on the streets with them. 17x8 with 235 or 245 are more than enough on the track. If you feel they are not sticky enough, wider is not better. Stickier is better. Also the smaller diameter wheel is lighter. Enkei PF01 is great track rim as the bead is roughened to keep the tire from spinning on the rim, which affects balance.

 

Get a 4-point harness - Schroth makes several options for street cars. It will keep you in the seat, as well, lessen the chance of injury when you go off track. Not used for the street.

 

Use a good quality oil. Mobil 1 is not it. I used Chevron turbo diesel truck oil 20/50, as my motor was clearanced for high-rpm long running track days. Check what others who drive theirs on the track use.

 

Check out this thread for more on motorsports with your car - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/amateur-motorsports-and-you-can-get-involved-you-legacy-199487.html . Also, check out your regional thread, as there are several ppl in your area that track/race their cars.

 

I had my car built, as I didn't want to experience the build part. However, I hired someone who was experienced in building the car I wanted. I talked to several shops before putting down money. I also used several shops to have the most experienced ppl doing what they do best.

 

After all that, if I was to do it again, I'd buy a Miata race car and put the wagon back to daily driver. The amount of money I'd saved would be in the $40k range. With that much, I'd be running 2 racecars today instead of 1.

 

That said, the 2 years that my car did run, it put a smile on my face every time. Taking ppl for rides on the track never lost its thrill, heck even rides around the neighborhood was fun. However, it blew the head gaskets when the radiator failed. Before that, a brake caliper failed on a "date" weekend with the wife. Before that, the transmission demolished 5th gear on the way to work. Before that, I destroyed a brake disk/caliper when the race brake setup never warmed up and ground down the disk. Before that, I went thru wheel bearings at a 1:1 ratio of track days to bearings.

 

Go forth and show us a better way... couldn't help a bit of sarcasm...

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Thanks man. I'm in the middle of reading your thread. Very inspirational lol. Makes me wanna shrug off the haters lol. I don't feel so bad now for wanting the parts I do. 😎

 

We're not hating, but, understand that most who come here and go, "Welp/Help(!) I need a new engine," are usually not fully prepared for how much it's really gonna cost them, so, when they start talking about how they read that the OEM pistons are soft, and blah blah blah, and they need forged internals and 400whp, blah blah blah, we try to set 'em straight. Homebro quietly did his thing and didn't really care what the cost was -- he built something awesome knowing what he what he was getting into and what he wanted to do. His car is a gem.

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Thanks man. I'm in the middle of reading your thread. Very inspirational lol. Makes me wanna shrug off the haters lol. I don't feel so bad now for wanting the parts I do. 😎

 

 

ya i def had a handful of haters but certainly didn't deter me from my goals. sure i spend money on stuff i didnt per say "need" but i most def wanted them. and honestly I've never been one to cheap out or skimp on anything in life. and i plan on having this car forever and all the parts i have are rebuildable and well worth the extra pennies. do your research and pay attention to your budget and what you overall goals are. it takes most people years to have there car the way they want it i feel fortunate it only took me couple months. i can't wait to get my car rolling with new turbo and upgraded heads. should be a serious porsche killer

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thx MrTris. it certainly was not cheap but i got lucky with my builder and made things more possible by not raping me on prices and got me all parts at a wholesale cost. but certainly best thing you can do is research and having an ultimate goal. mine is to have a overly versatile track/grocery/snowboard with as much reliability as possible. only thing now that i want is a 6 speed swap and then i really don't have anything left to mess with other than some better fuel mods and some body work. look forward to seeing your progress!
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ya i def had a handful of haters but certainly didn't deter me from my goals. sure i spend money on stuff i didnt per say "need" but i most def wanted them. and honestly I've never been one to cheap out or skimp on anything in life. and i plan on having this car forever and all the parts i have are rebuildable and well worth the extra pennies. do your research and pay attention to your budget and what you overall goals are. it takes most people years to have there car the way they want it i feel fortunate it only took me couple months. i can't wait to get my car rolling with new turbo and upgraded heads. should be a serious porsche killer

Keep it forever? you have more for sale ads than me :eek:

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Id proly sell a kidney first :)

Funny you say that. I've been asking co-workers to donate an unused/unneeded kidney to support my race hobby. I've offered to let them put their own graphx on the car, too. I had one lady mildy interested until she found out I wanted all the money and she would only get a write-off.

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ya i badly wanna get into racing im gonna be able to do a couple hpde days this winter but hopefully next year i will be finally done with my car so will have more money for the track. just got a 08 sti tranny and r180 so once thats in i think im about as happy as a pig in mud
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Okay after doing some research for a few days I've come to a target "goal".

 

I'm thinking turbo-wise an 18g. Mainly because I like quick spool up and it's not a huge turbo. A really don't want a balls to the wall leggy although a sleeper leggy is dreamy. I see that the bnr turbos are well liked. Although I've only read one thread (so far) that one guy had a slight problem with it. The oil seal went bad on it after 5 years and 60,000km (note the kilometers 😄). So one in a bunch I read had any problems.

 

So I guess my "target" hp would be anywhere from 300-350. From reading I feel the car will handle it and so will the tranny with supporting mods. Can a tuner tune more torque then just pushing the car to what it's capable for? Like maybe not so much hp and more torque?

 

I'm pretty sure I need a rebuilt low end and it's not just a blown turbo. I had chunks of flake in the oil pan so I have to crack it open anyways. So brings my next thing up, which I might take some heat on.

 

I think at those goals, forged Pistons and new connecting rods and studs are never a bad idea. Basically I want a built engine tuned down. Is that a bad idea or the stupidest thing I've said yet? Or is having a good running block capable of more power dumbed down not viable? I am going to edit my parts list on the OP.

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Can a tuner tune more torque then just pushing the car to what it's capable for? Like maybe not so much hp and more torque?

 

:confused:

 

HP = Torque {lb-ft} * RPM / 5252

 

I understand what you're saying. Just get a tune. A good tuner will not tune a steet car like a race car. Race fuel is different than pump gas. Your 18g will only put out so much boost and the car will only make so much power. It's not going to blow up like slapping a GT35R on a stock block and running max boost would.

 

I'm pretty sure I need a rebuilt low end and it's not just a blown turbo. I had chunks of flake in the oil pan so I have to crack it open anyways. So brings my next thing up, which I might take some heat on.

 

The OEM block will work with an 18g

 

I think at those goals, forged Pistons and new connecting rods and studs are never a bad idea. Basically I want a built engine tuned down. Is that a bad idea or the stupidest thing I've said yet? Or is having a good running block capable of more power dumbed down not viable? I am going to edit my parts list on the OP.

 

 

A built engine "tuned down" is just a waste of money.

 

 

My personal opinion is that studs are not needed until you're well into the built engine territory. Experiential evidence on the forum has a few 500 hp motors on the factory bolts.

 

That being said, my brother has an 18g, OEM bottom end, and ARP studs. It has been fine for 2 years and sees occasional "fun".

Edited by compsurge
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