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Replacing hubs: Anything better than OEM?


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Posted

Well my hubs finally starting rubbing loud enough to make me spend to money to replace them... OEM is about $146 from http://heubergersubaruparts.com and non-OEM parts are very close to the same (Auto Zone, O'Reilly, etc).

 

Anyone have a GOOD experience with non-OEM parts? I just don't want to replace them again in 30k miles...

Posted
Just replaced my front right with a Raybestos. I've used lots of Raybestos parts, and they're usually great. Not this time. As many have found, OEM is the only way to go with the front hubs. My cruise control stopped working due to the ABS sensor not liking the magnetic strip setup on this new hub. Stick with OEM. As far as rear hubs go, people seem to do fine with the Moogs. Still, OEM to be safe.
Posted
Oem has 36k warranty!

 

On the original part, yes (3 years, 36K). The factory replacements are 12 months, unlimited miles.

I like to cook my pets and my family.

 

Use commas. Don't be a psycho.

Posted
I found out the hard way about Subaru warranty policy. If you buy the parts and install your self, and it fails, the service department must verify the failure. You gotta pay for the service people to verify the failure though it's not free
Posted
Anyone use hubs from rockauto.com? They have hubs for under 100 a piece as well as timken and SKF for over 100. Wondering how long the value bearings last?
Posted

I have used the SKF ones before. Used them on many cars and always had good sucess.

 

I also work at a manufacturing plant and use SKF or NTN bearings in $500K tools that keep a million dollar a day fab up and running. There good quality.

Posted
Moogs work for the rears but not for the fronts.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Posted
Timken, SKF, BCA, OE are all fine. Remember, you get what you pay for. Cheap bearings are exactly that, cheap bearings. It's not actually the bearing that has the fault anyways, it's the ABS trigger ring that the cheap bearings can't seem to install correctly.
Posted
Sorry if this is posted in the wrong spot, but I am about to changer my driver side rear hub with a timken. My question is there a certain way the hub needs to be installed top vs. bottom, I noticed a indentation on new hub outer edge where the axle butts with hub? Is this used for installation reference?
Posted
Sorry if this is posted in the wrong spot, but I am about to changer my driver side rear hub with a timken. My question is there a certain way the hub needs to be installed top vs. bottom, I noticed a indentation on new hub outer edge where the axle butts with hub? Is this used for installation reference?

 

There should be a bevel on left or right side of the bearing, just remember the orientation and you should be good. Also I believe the bolts only really fit one way.

23 WRX - Stock / De-Crosstreked

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) / 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct / 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

Posted

It only fits on one way. Wheel studs facing out. There is no left side or right side hub's.

 

FWIW, you can't put a rear hub on the front, the bolt holes don't line up.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Posted
It only fits on one way. Wheel studs facing out. There is no left side or right side hub's.

 

FWIW, you can't put a rear hub on the front, the bolt holes don't line up.

 

You can't put it backwards (because of studs yes) but you can get the pitch wrong. Rear bolts top/bottom are more alike then front, thus easier to get wrong.

23 WRX - Stock / De-Crosstreked

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) / 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct / 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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