IDEA-Web links saved for various parts

[JmP6889928]

There always seems to be questions regarding the replacement of calipers and whether it's OK to replace a single caliper or if they need to be replaced in pairs. I had posted the response below to the thread about smelling burning rubber in the rear of the car and this was geared towards the rear calipers however, the fronts are the same procedures as is the bleeding process. The part numbers for the Centric reman calipers and rotor blanks are as follows:

4th Gen Front Semi Loaded Calipers - Everything EXCEPT friction

LF 141.47042 LR 141.47520

RF 141.47041 RR 141.47519

 

4th Gen Rotors

Front Standard 121.47024 Premium 120.47024 High Carbon 125.47024

Rear Standard 121.47025 Premium 120.47025 High Carbon 125.47025

 

Because of the complexity of today's vehicles, you ALWAYS replace calipers in pairs. Release rates on the pistons will be different as will activation times when the pedal is depressed and it can also cause ABS issues in a panic situation if the axle doesn't react at the same speed.

 

Centric reman has LGT either fully loaded (complete with hardware and pads installed-remove hose, 2 bracket bolts, and remove the entire unit. Replace in opposite order. The entire job with new rotors can literally be completed in about 30 minutes mechanically and another 20 to bleed them) or "semi" loaded (includes everything EXCEPT pads-all retaining clips, anti rattle clips, etc.in place as though pads were there but you supply your own friction. Same R&R procedure except you install the pads either before you install the calipers or after they are on the car. Second option is easier as the caliper is a pivot away design and only requires one slide bolt to be removed. About double the total time of loaded if you've not done them before) and they come zinc dichromate plated in a very nice goldish shiny finish.

 

Tip for bleeding-lightly clamp hose before removing banjo bolt from caliper to minimize fluid loss. Have the old caliper assembly on the car sitting in place but ready to just lift off when you remove the banjo hose bolt and the new caliper right there ready to install PREFILLED with brake fluid. Remove banjo, lift old caliper off, remove old rotor and replace with new prepped rotor and spin a lug nut on to hold it in place, then sit new caliper in place, immediately put banjo and TWO copper washers in place and snug down the banjo bolt. Reinstall caliper bracket with two bolts and finish the assembly (pads if semi loaded-gsilicone or ceramic caliper brake grease ANYWHERE ANYTHING METALTOUCHES ANYTHING METAL-{NOT on friction face}-sorry...didn't mean to yell...LOL) and one both sides are complete, BEFORE pushing the pedal gently to position the pads and caliper, gravity bleed the rears. BEST way is with car level or slightly front elevated.

 

Evacuate as much fluid as possible from MC reservoir and replace with NEW (not old crap that's been in your garage since Nixon was in office. "But it was sealed up" doesn't matter-it's been no good since he was impeached-pitch it) fresh fluid of your choice. Put a price of vacuum or vinyl hose over the RR nipple and look for a steady drip into a container. You can hear it sputter and that is air being forced out by the weight of new fluid and gravity. Let it drip for 5-8 minutes and lock blender screw. Do the same on LR. Keep MC reservoir full but cap off. After both are done, refill MC, put cap on, GENTLY push pedal partway down several times until you can observe pads contact rotors.

 

Install wheels, put car on the ground, check/fill MC reservoir, replace cap, and go bed the pads and you're done.

 

Much simpler to do once it's all in front of you-not complicated or tricky. Basic skills and tools are needed BUT, if you don't feel comfortable doing them yourself, by all means have a technician do them. Brakes are life and death. Not like putting in a radio or changing your air filter, so self evaluate and if any doubt is there, pay someone and know you will have brakes.

 

Good luck.

[MrTris]

750 Sidefeeds, full set:

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQUO24S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3QA85149LDWF1&coliid=I353ST06WXTLQE]Amazon.com: AUS Injection (11083-750-4) 750cc High Impedance Fuel Injector, (Set of 4): Automotive[/ame]

 

you have to copy & paste actual link, as it doesn't work with vigilink

Edited April 3, 2015 by boxkita
extract link, as url didnt' work

[boxkita]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2559017

 

Turbo Spec Comparison Table ([ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CS3AUE8]Wheel Sizes[/ame], Max Airflow, Bearings, Etc.)

 

http://www.benjohnsonphotography.com/photos/i-d6dgTKd/0/M/i-d6dgTKd-M.gif

 

This list has been created to help compare turbo's more easily. As I looked at different turbo options it became clear that it was not a straightforward task, mainly due to inconsistent methods of listing turbo specifications by different manufacturers. Because of this it was difficult to even compare the physical [ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CS3AUE8]wheel sizes[/ame] of different turbo's.

 

I began compiling the information that I could find by looking online and in the product catalog's of various manufacturers. Along the way I asked manitou for help and he did a lot of the work calling around to try and fill in the blanks that I could not easily find, and also adding info for other brands and models. Thanks to him we have a pretty good list together at this time.

 

We chose common turbo's on the Subaru platform. Both stock location and rotated turbo's are included.We decided to keep this table as simple as possible and only include some of the most basic specifications. This includes the inducer and exducer measurements for both the compressor and turbine, and also the max flow rate of the turbo.

 

This post is NOT meant to be a lesson on turbo basics. If you need that there are many resources on this site and elsewhere online. Here are a few links to get you started.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1218459

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...rbo_tech_basic

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob..._tech_advanced

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...bo_tech_expert

 

Here is the list that we have compiled so far. Please let me know if there are any errors. All of this information should have come straight from the manufacturer, but there could still be errors, and I would be happy to correct any that are found. We are open to suggestions for more turbo's to be added to the list. If you have the specifications available that would make it much easier to get it added.

 

http://www.benjohnsonphotography.com/photos/i-d6dgTKd/0/M/i-d6dgTKd-M.gif

 

To help clean up the look of the table, some abbreviations were used in the headers. Here are the descriptions (with units):

You have to goto the Nasioc link to actually see the table

Edited April 9, 2015 by boxkita

[xtea]

750 Sidefeeds, full set:

 

Amazon.com: AUS Injection (11083-750-4) 750cc High Impedance Fuel Injector, (Set of 4): Automotive

 

you have to copy & paste actual link, as it doesn't work with vigilink

 

What do we know about these injectors other then that they are inexpensive? I googled and didn't find any third party info.

[MrTris]

What do we know about these injectors other then that they are inexpensive? I googled and didn't find any third party info.

 

I can tell you for a fact that the spray patterns will differ from OEM units, or maybe even other aftermarket applications, in that the ports in the tip are fewer, however, with a matched set, I don't see how this could be an issue.

[hadvw]

What do we know about these injectors other then that they are inexpensive? I googled and didn't find any third party info.

 

There was a thread on NASIOC about these. A tuner said something to the effect of "these were good for a while, but lately, they've been really bad, and I've stopped recommending them", IIRC.

[MrTris]

There was a thread on NASIOC about these. A tuner said something to the effect of "these were good for a while, but lately, they've been really bad, and I've stopped recommending them", IIRC.

 

Here's their full line, with PNs, (so you can find them on Amazon instead!) just in case anyone was curious -

 

http://www.ausinjector.com/brands/SUBARU.html

[boxkita]

copied my first attempt at an index to the first post. Some day (about the time I fix the mess I made of the 06 specB thread), I'll update the index again.

[JmP6889928]

Thanks to SneakyGT, here is a good supplier in Canada for Lamin-X film:

 

http://www.prolightz.com/index.php/lamin-x.html

 

Someone help me out in a PM with a good USA supplier so I can post it here too.

[Matt166]

sub

[Max Capacity]

Just found this part number for the Timken front hub's HA590315, got the P/N from another members post, then checked post 66 here.

 

John, can you update post #66 ? Could you also add post #66 to the index in post #1 ?

 

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA590315-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B0031HRJ5S/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Legacy%7C64&Year=2005%7C2005&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive]Amazon.com: Timken HA590315 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame]

 

 

post #298 in this, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-4th-gen-legacy-todayi-vol-5-243830p8.html

 

 

Here's a link to the rears.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Moog-512293-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B000JZEYC6/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1457525090&vehicle=2005-13-64-------------0&sr=1-2&ymm=2005%3Asubaru%3Alegacy&keywords=moog+hub+subaru+legacy+2005]Amazon.com: Moog 512293 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame]

 

 

Update, got these numbers from rhino6303, I have not used these, my wagons still doing fine with moogs on the rear and one timken and one OEM in front.

 

BCA WE60548 Front (made by NTN)

BCA WE60998 Rear (made by NTN)

 

poconoracing Found another link for hubs, https://sixstarbernie.com/c-1171192-oem-axle-bearings-axle-bearings-hub-units.html

 

They sixstarbernis have other parts too.

 

 

Update Jan 26 2021

Found some more info with prices, see post # 408 and 410 https://www.carid.com/2005-subaru-legacy-driveline-axles/ntn-wheel-hub-assembly-2631802725.html

 

EDIT, June 8 2022

 

Member NORULZleggy found that FAG bearings also work well. Search Google for FAG 101908 for the fronts and FAG101909 for the rears. I found that Summit Racing carries them but, had a 4 or 5 week lead time to ship from manufacture.

 

Here's his post from, "Ok so they are FAG wheel bearing hubs is what I have on my car, they are made in Germany from what the shop was saying. they have tons more lube than what most brands have and they last like crazy. Hey and who doesn't like more lube ahahaah"

 

Here's a thread from the outback forum,

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/wheel-bearing-option-fag101908-101909.544557/#post-6253937

Edited June 9, 2022 by Max Capacity

[JmP6889928]

Just found this part number for the Timken front hub's HA590315, got the P/N from another members post, then checked post 66 here.

 

John, can you update post #66 ? Could you also add post #66 to the index in post #1 ?

 

 

Amazon.com: Timken HA590315 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive

 

 

post #298 in this, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-4th-gen-legacy-todayi-vol-5-243830p8.html

 

Thanks much Max. Update completed on Post 66.

[MTBwrench]

I might as well contribute

 

I recently purchased the iSimple ISFM22 Bluetooth FM modulator listed in the idea links. Fantastic addition to the stock head unit! HOWEVER: what many don't know is that the stock antenna connection on our cars is a proprietary OEM connector. A set of adapters is required to convert the antenna from OEM to aftermarket, and then back again after the modulator to plug into the head unit. This pair is the best deal:

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-SB30-Antenna-Adapter-Modulator/dp/B000K53QBA]Amazon.com : Metra 40-SB30 Antenna Adapter for Subaru FM Modulator : Vehicle Audio Video Antennas : Car Electronics[/ame]

[PeterJMC]

So I ordered a Snap-On tool, a ball joint remover for Subarus. Part number BJR1

https://www1.snapon.com/display/231/ToolNews/PressReleases/2012/New_Snap_on_Specialty_Tool_for_Subaru_Vehicles_BJR1___6_4_12_FINAL.pdf

 

From what I can put together, a user Sniper from nasioc.com made up the tool, TurnInConcepts(TiC) was selling it for him, and Snap-On bought it.

[jaylew]

I didn't see a link to this site yet. Its a dealership in Washington state, and as far as buying straight OEM parts, this place is the cheapest when it comes to the majority of parts. This in combination with Opposed Forces to confirm all part numbers has worked out great with any work on my '96 OBW

 

http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

[SBT]

Used them all the time when I was in SoCal. Great prices, and service.

[JmP6889928]

IMPORTANT!!!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-lego-outb-recall-2005-2008-248410.html

 

Check this and get scheduled.

[Max Capacity]

I did some investigation (asked a trusted member who did some checking)and found that you can use the TPS sensor to replace a broken TGV sensor. Found one for $28 with shipping.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tgv-sensor-248832.html

[Jaybird2013]

For those of you looking to run an aftermarket or STI style Turbo in conjunction with a Process West, Grimmspeed ,or Fast Motorsports TMIC.

 

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/prw-pwsh001-process-west-traditional-turbo-upgrade-hose

 

http://www.grimmspeed.com/top-mount-intercooler-turbo-outlet-hose-subaru-08-14-wrx-05-09-legacy-gt/

 

http://www.importimageracing.com/fast-motorsports-turbo-upgrade-hose-2008-2014-subaru-wrx-2005-2009-legacy-gt.html

 

Note: will not work with a stock intercooler

[madrig]

http://www.subaruwrcspares.com/11.html

[Max Capacity]

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F799X6?redirect=true&ref_=pe_58340_172032730_em_1p_0_ti]Amazon.com: Denso 234-9120 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor): Automotive[/ame]

 

If one of the Mods would like to move this to the post with the O2 sensors in it feel free.

 

Thanks,

 

EDIT: looks like the 2008-2009 may be a Denzo 234-9035

 

Here are pictures of the connector 234-9120 on my 2005 GT

 

 

 

Looks like the 08-08 my have orange insides.

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/28724-05205669.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=2008-2009+Subaru+Legacy+Air+Fuel+Ratio+Sensor+Denso+Upstream+08-09+Subaru+Air+Fuel+Ratio+Sensor&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=308174267216%3A%3Apla-308174267216&kid=308174267216&gclid=Cj0KCQjw59n8BRD2ARIsAAmgPmIDq12CSIlGTcSlVrPVrsQdUWr7CvpCz6-UTJAHty0zsP0VaL-en1saAiXYEALw_wcB#immersedview

Edited February 12, 2021 by Max Capacity

[MJC784]

stickied. thanks for all the info guys

[Max Capacity]

Found good info in post # 724 in this thread about Raxles.

 

May be one of the MOD's can this link up so the whole thread doesn't take up band width.

 

I just want to give credit to the OP that found this info. NORULZleggy

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-rebuild-torn-cv-boot-and-axle-108975p19.html

 

From raxles site,

 

The best way to order is to just give us a call on our toll-free (800-257-8192) line for immediate access to a professional axle specialist with a minimum of 15 years in the CV axle field. Or just email ( sales@raxles.com ) us for a fast quote or with any questions. Our hours are 8:00 to 5:00, EST Monday through Friday

 

raxles is still open, I linked that phone number in another thread today Feb 12 2021.

Edited February 12, 2021 by Max Capacity

[LatentWagen]

Cadillac Brembo Calipers for your Subaru:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cadillac-ats-brembo-caliper-upgrade-your-subaru-251912.html

[Tehnation]

Crankshaft sprocket

 

Subaru Part Number 13021AA141

http://www.heubergersubaruparts.com/Subaru-Part-Number-13021AA141-p/13021aa141.htm

 

$25 is lowest price dealership would sell.