Car refuses to warm up, any ideas?

[Leviman]

So, lately my '06 2.5i has not been warming up. I figured stuck thermostat, and replaced it, but no dice. If you leave the car idling it will stay at the first tick (about a 1/4 way down). It won't warm up until you start driving it and putting a load on it. Which sucks, because my commute is all down hill! So yeah, thus, my heat sucks. Any ideas?

[ehsnils]

If it's not the thermostat that gives that kind of behavior you might have an air pocket blocking the circulation and therefore you need to "burp" the system.

 

Other causes.

 

• Make sure that you have the right thermostat, there are a few aftermarket ones that are "too cold". OEM shall do it.
  
• Bad water pump limiting the circulation.
  
• Cooling is also performed by the oil - if you have an oil cooler it may be sufficient to cool the engine at low temps.
  

Considering your location - how cold is it outside? It do take some time to warm up the engine if it's very cold - in which case covering part of the radiator with a cardboard piece may help. Just remember to remove it before it gets warm outside.

 

 

Also be aware that at low temps the circulation of air around the engine may be sufficient to cool it down.

[Max Capacity]

Alaska, cold air. How long have you owned the car ?

 

My wagon runs cold in the mornings here too. I coast a mile and a half to the highway.

[rob-2]

Alaska hasn't been cold enough to prevent you from getting a motor warmed up.

 

Most motors will come up to temp idling even at -30-40 below.

 

I suspect you have an air pocket and/or low fluid.

[Leviman]

But how would an air pocket cause it not to warm up? I wouldn't be to surprised if i do though. I've had the car a few years, this is the first I've seen of this. The thernostat was an oem one from the dealership. We're talking, around zero and even warmer some times.

[dbrunone]

When its at the max temp, do the electric radiator fans come on?

 

Does anyone know if the "indication" signal for the gauge is the same as the "control" signal for the fans etc? Just saying, might be an indication problem.

[Leviman]

I doubt it is, but it may be. I do know that the heat seems to correspond with the gauge. Not sure if i can even get the fans to come on.

[chato]

when you put in the new thermostat did you do the air purging procedure from the FSM?

[Leviman]

Maybe, I'm not sure (if it happens to be the same as what I did, yes). I filled up the engine through the upper rad hose, put it on, then filled the rad. It seems to be fine, it's topped off and stays there, heater core lines move the fluid visible in the cap fine, as does the upper rad hose. I'll check what the flying spaghetti monster has to say though.

[chato]

CO(H4SO)-12 FILLING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1) Pour cooling system conditioner through the filler neck.

2) Pour engine coolant into the radiator up to the filler neck position.

Coolant capacity (fill up to “FULL” level): MT model:

6.4 2 (6.8 US qt, 5.6 Imp qt) AT model:

6.3 2 (6.7 US qt, 5.5 Imp qt)

3) Fill engine coolant into the reservoir tank up to “FULL” level.

4) Close the radiator cap to start the engine and race 5 to 6 times at less than 3,000 rpm, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 sec- onds.)

5) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position.

6) Perform the procedures 4) and 5) again.

7) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.

8) Start the engine and operate the heater at max- imum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO”

9) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops.

NOTE:

• Be careful with the engine coolant temperature gauge to prevent overheating.

• If the radiator hose becomes harden with the pressure of engine coolant, air bleeding operation seems to be almost completed.

10) Stop the engine and wait until engine coolant temperature lowers to 30C (86F).

11) Open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant lev- el drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position and reservoir tank to the “FULL” level.

12) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.

13) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO” and start the engine. Perform racing at less than 3,000 rpm. If the flowing sound is heard, perform the procedures from 9) again.

[Leviman]

Number 9, i can't do that, as it literally will not warm up without driving. That said, im pretty sure ive got all the air out. Besides, wouldn't an air pocket cause overheating?

[chato]

well, its the 1-8 "burping" thats important. Not completely convinced air is your problem. But you may try the procedure from a cold engine just to be sure.

 

did you inspect the t-stat you took out? was it sticking?

 

are you sure the thermostat you put in was good?

 

was the replacement a factory part?

 

symptoms do sound like a stuck t-stat.

[DonnyJagaru]

Is the coolant in the hose to the heater core hot?

[Leviman]

The old t-stat looked fine, and the new one was $30 and straight from the dealer, so it better be good (sure looked nice). I'll do a check of the hoses to see if they're all getting warm and pressurized.

[Leviman]

Yeah, seems to be getting pressurized, all hoses are warm. The coolant level in the overflow seems to go up.

[DonnyJagaru]

Well, this tends to suggest an HVAC issue. If the hose to the heater core is hot that tells me its flowing. If there's no heat out of the vent that tells me air isn't flowing through the core. If the fan is blowing that tells me its a flap problem. Hope this helps!

[Leviman]

There is heat out the vents. Trust me, the heater itself is not the issue. The issue is that the engine itself doesn't warm up. Hell, i was going down the hill the other day and the temperature started dropping (as in, indicated on the temperature gauge) ! That shouldn't happen. It's not even that cold right now, it was like 10.

[iNVAR]

Broken ECT sensor? Broken gauge? Confirm it by hooking up a reader to your OBD port that can pull ECT reading. You have a 2.5i so I don't know if RR would work, so you may need another device.

[Leviman]

You i can use rom raider, I've got the cable and all. I guess i can try it, but i really doubt it is the issue.