Tr00b Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Got snow tires. Ordered tie rod ends because another mechanic said one was going out. Mechanic at tire shop takes front tires off. Severe inside wear all the way through belts.Mechanic sees nothing wrong with tie rod ends. Asks what original problem is. I reply shaking at high speeds 60 plus. Looks closer. Notices that the transmission end of the CV shafts has lots of play up down in and out and gulp... axial play kind of like a bad ball joint. Anything going into a transmission shouldn't move like that. Seals were not leaking. Car on a lift so suspension at full droop. Did it the same on both sides maybe worse on drivers side. I saw it and wanted to get a video but cell was out of batts... They did not align it because anticipated having to do work to CV joints they did put it on the rack. Had a toe in problem that would explain the tire wear. Car drives way better but on the mechanics advice the car is parked until I know what's up. Are both shafts bad? Is something bad in my trans? It shifts fine... Any input is appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 I guess how much movement/play is OK and what is too much? Do bearings often go out in the trans causing the CV bearing cups to be able to be moved around like.a joystick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 well im not sure, i would have to check my car, but i think their was a little bit of play foresure on the Green inner part of the cv axle, there is play on the splines and its held on with that split pin, now there is adjustment for the preload on the bearing on either side, the caps screw in to adjust preload of the bearings inside and centering of the differential, the best thing would be to punch the pin out, and see if theres any play on the output shaft/axle stub that sticks out of the transmission that shouldnt have much play, i dont think anyways, i had both my cv aaxles out last month doing seals and boots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I would also have to actually check, but I'm fairly confident that there was a bit of axial play on my car as well. I might also be completely making that up, but IIRC there was 1-2 mm of play. I figured for a transmission with 270k miles, I shouldn't complain, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 I'm going to drive it tomorrow and schedule an alignment and have them put the tie rods in and check the shafts again... I had at least 3-4 mm of play it was significant and a little scary. The car drives absolutely fine. Everyone says that CV joints have alot of symptoms I have none. Is there a good exploded view and or a procedure for.setting and checking the stub shaft bearing preload? If someone were to knock the pins out could they get the axle.off of the stub shaft to inspect without doing any other work? I have a Chilton manual and its not real helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 So the different mechanic said that it is fine and that that was normal for them to move that much. I shook the shaft on a 2010 Toyota Tacoma 4wd and it was the same kind of movement. Thanks for the reassurance and insight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Is there a good exploded view and or a procedure for.setting and checking the stub shaft bearing preload? If someone were to knock the pins out could they get the axle.off of the stub shaft to inspect without doing any other work? I have a Chilton manual and its not real helpful. if you remove the roll pin you cannot get the axle off of tyhe stub shaft. there is not enough room. you would have to loosen the hub / knuckle to give it enough room to clear. DO NOT remove the retainer ring on the trans axle seal with out reading up on it. it preset set the position of the bearing and the diff carrier. it MUST be reinstall EXACTLY the same way it was before. and DO NOT do both sides at the same time. do one side and then move to the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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