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Ground Wire Kit Points?


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Each head, I/m, tie off from I/m to throttle body or add one under the coil and strut tower are the ones I did with a grounding block on the firewall. I could have done all the grounds to a block on the battery but I didn't like how the circle earth kit looked.
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Ground wire upgrade? Good start.

After replacing all your ground wires with heavy gauge cable, take a look at the small gauge wire coming from the alternator to the battery. That will be the weak link in your cars 12V system after you've completed your ground mod. The good news is that it is easy to eliminate the weak link as well as get your ground mod. This is called the Big 3 Upgrade.

-Alternator output to battery positive. Piggy back over the existing output.

-Alternator case to engine block.

-Strut tower to engine block.

-Battery negative to engine block.

-Battery negative to strut tower.

*The strut towers are my preferred location due to their robustness and ease of access. Thin gauge metal locations like core supports are not as good due to them being tack welded and not as centerally located in the car.

There are a few good locations on the engine block which have decent size bolts.

You can make this mod easy if you replace the battery terminals with aftermarket ones which accept multiple large gauge cables. All connections must be to clean metal. You should spray battery terminal protector on after to prevent rust and corrosion.

 

http://elitestreetsmagazine.com/magazine/2008/jul-sep/tech2.php

RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles
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Solder them. I used to crimp them but the inside of the crimped connections would sometimes corrode over time. Here is a link showing a cutaway of a soldered connection.

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A MAPP torch is cheap and can be used to help with rusted fasteners later on

RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles
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Solder them. I used to crimp them but the inside of the crimped connections would sometimes corrode over time. Here is a link showing a cutaway of a soldered connection.

 

 

A MAPP torch is cheap and can be used to help with rusted fasteners later on

 

for work, we sometimes have to crimp and solder for anything larger than 4g. its a pain in the ass with 750mcm cable, luckily not all cities require it.

 

heres how big 750 is compared to 1/0 (about .4")

 

http://mooreu.com/000_store/imagesupload/1_Awg_Power_Cable_319w_287h_1.gif

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should probably get a fabric measure tape (3 ft or so and flexible) and measure each point to point run, then add them together and get that plus a foot or so. if i say 10ft and its short, youll be bummed. i didnt buy the cable i used, so i didnt think of measuring before cutting it off the reels, sorry.
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