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So what's the issue with the suspension?


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Hi,

 

I'm a new outback XT wagon owner (2006, MT) and prior to buying research on forums led me to believe there were big issues with the stock setup, especially the rear.

 

I have only owned the car a few weeks but already had a 'too hot for the corner moment' at around 60 mph into a tightening bend where apart from all the tires squealing was quite uneventful with the suspension doing a good job with no drama.

 

I have also been deliberately trying to push the suspension on tight junctions with again no problems.

 

I live in MN so want to keep the stock ride height for the winter months, I don't plan on track days or autocross. I am also happy with the quality of the ride with a nice supple/firm compromise. When I used to live in the UK I have previously owned a modified turbo Impreza and turbo legacy with harder suspension and have driven these cars on track days so I know how a good setup handles, but I don't think typically straight US roads need such a firm ride that I had on these cars.

 

So at the moment I can't find any reason to change, am I missing something, i was expecting something a lot worse?

 

For those of you that have changed to different setups, why have you done it? Do you track your cars?

 

Note:

 

I think my car has an aftermarket clutch, with a really heavy pedal, it also at some time in its past had plumbing for a boost gauge (It had open T-piece on the boost actuator causing actuator out of range codes!). So maybe it already has been modified from stock - is there an easy way to check?

 

Thanks!

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Note:

 

I think my car has an aftermarket clutch, with a really heavy pedal, it also at some time in its past had plumbing for a boost gauge (It had open T-piece on the boost actuator causing actuator out of range codes!). So maybe it already has been modified from stock - is there an easy way to check?

 

Not the normal place to plumb in a boost gauge, usually you would T in next to the BOV like so:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=152865&d=1369551041

 

Sure it's not this T which has come apart? You need all lines connected for this T, this is for your boost control:

http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l572/iphoneadamf/19934234.jpg

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That's the T in the second picture.

 

I didn't see the other hose (that goes up in your picture), just assumed it was a take off point for a gauge.

 

Thanks for the info, I had better have another look under the hood!

 

Edited to say I have no idea where the 3rd pipe goes, having had a good look around I can't see anything near. For now I just have a short pipe on it plugged so its not venting to atmosphere, that seems to stop the actuator code.

 

I can't say I am surprised, the engine has had a new turbo, timing belt and head gaskets recently done before i bought it. I keep finding evidence of sloppy workmanship with missing fittings etc, the worst one so far was the ac compressor only had one bolt fitted allowing it to twist and throw the belt off.

 

If the place where I bought it from wasn't a 5hr drive away (and these cars with MT weren't so rare) it would have been returned by now.

 

It does drive well and has great bodywork so I can hopefully work through the niggles, especially when the haynes manual turns up and I can figure out how it should all go together :)

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That's pretty essential for boost control, the line heads back under the manifold itself, under the main intake line I think. It's connected to the wastegate control solenoid which is connected to the intake:

 

Wastegate Solenoid Valve - An electromagnetic solenoid which controls the air flow from the wastegate actuator to the turbo inlet. This device is normally

closed when no voltage is applied. When 12V direct current (DC) voltage is applied, by the drivers in the electronic control module (ECM), to the

wastegate solenoid valve, it fully opens allowing air to pass through the device. A 0% Wastegate Duty Cycle (WGDC) setting will allow the solenoid to

stay fully closed; which will force the turbo to run mechanical boost pressure. A 100% WGDC setting will force the solenoid to stay fully open; which will

force the turbo to run maximum boost pressure.

 

You're running maximum boost pressure by having that open to atmosphere (wastegate fully closed), or mechanical boost (i.e. not much, wastegate fully open) by having it sealed.

 

edit: Having it sealed until you fix it is a good move, overboost can be deadly

1855491522_05-06LGTTurboHoseRouting.png.f4fc11ed919fed02dad232c105277c51.png

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Thanks again, it's been many years since I have worked on my old impreza and it's all slowly coming back to me.

 

I remember the boost solenoid on that car being the thing that made a loud clicking noise as it regulated the boost. It was easily visible on the UK impreza, although it looks less obvious on my outback.

 

I found an excellent article on the Cobb website that shows there is a tube coming from under the air intake that also goes to the solenoid - should be easy enough to trace and find the missing tube.

 

When it threw the code it must have over-boosted - it was like hitting a brick wall. I just took it easy after that until I could find something to block the open T. It's good to know when I get this working properly there should be more power on tap :)

 

Edited to say - I found the solenoid, it's on the side of the intake plastic molding, easily accessible, unfortunately the hose is too short - looks to have been torn and needs replacing.

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I just checked - Looks like I already have KYB Excel G struts fitted to the car, maybe due to the ghostwalking issues reported on these cars.

 

:lol:

 

you can really feel the sloppy rear when you load up the car and hit a turn with a bump in it. feels like youll totally spin out. had one of these incidents when accidentally going on an onramp too fast with 3 people in the back seat.

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