therealcc Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I just had a compression test performed on my 05 Outback XT and it's not looking too good. It was 100psi on cylinder 1 & 2 and 105psi on cylinder 3 & 4. The car has 150k miles on it. I'm a broke college student who can't really afford to spend a few grand to rebuild the motor. It is starting to look like it might be my best option to sell it and get something else. I did buy a CNT catted DP and BNR 16G (both unopened in the box) because I was going to get a tune but I didn't install it yet because I wanted to get a compression test performed first to make sure I didn't run into this problem. So ideally I can sell that for what I bought it for so it wouldn't be a complete waste. Does anybody have any thoughts or advice on what I should do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 how does it run otherwise? any error codes? those numbers are low but there's not much difference between them. it's *possible* that it's ok. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I would question if the test was performed correctly. Was the engine at operating temp? Was the throttle wide open? Did they do a dry and wet test? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealcc Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Rewind back to January 2013, 2 weeks after I bought the car the VF40 blew. I put in a cheap Godspeed 16G because I wasn't sure what I wanted to do yet and I didn't have the money to do anything with it right away. Since then I've been running that cheap 16G on the stock tune and I haven't had it above 3000 RPM's because I'm terrified that I'm going to blow the engine and be in an even worse spot, having a car that's not drivable at all and loosing even more money trying to unload it for barely anything. I bought a used AP for $300 and have had it in economy mode to limit the boost and provide lower shift points. I have had codes a few times that said it was running lean (when I accidentally got into a small amount of boost), but they went away after a few driving cycles and there hasn't been any problems with it. The only signs that anything further could be wrong besides needing a good turbo and a tune is now my compression test results are low. I'll have to ask the mechanic tomorrow if the compression test was performed at the correct temperature, WOT, dry/wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanjk3 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 When I had a compression test done a few months ago all 4 cylinders were at 125psi. I just hit 96K miles. Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Yeah those are all within 5 psi, that's really good. Hard to believe they all wore out exactly the same, but it's possible. Maybe they did not let it crank enough or did it cold/closed tb like everyone else suggested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 how does it run otherwise? any error codes? those numbers are low but there's not much difference between them. it's *possible* that it's ok. ^^^What heiche said. HOW DOES IT RUN NOW? You never answered that question. If it runs OK, even with your worries that you may have compression loss, it just may be that the test was bogus. I've read in a couple of different threads on here where someone says "HELP...I just had a compression test done and a couple of cylinders were at 90 and the others were at 93 and 94....What do I do?" Then the OP goes on to say, "it runs fine and doesn't smoke and boost feels good-I guess I must need a rebuild." NOT the case. If it runs fine and doesn't smoke and boost feels OK, then the test was bogus. HOW DOES IT RUN NOW? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 If it runs good, put it on the stage 1 tune. Then put on the DP, may be the new turbo, new oil return hose, and load the stage 2 map. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 The biggest thing is that they be within 10% of each other. While your numbers are lower then you'd like for 150K it's even wear and will likely see 200K. Get the turbo replaced when you can afford it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 I just had a compression test performed on my 05 Outback XT and it's not looking too good. It was 100psi on cylinder 1 & 2 and 105psi on cylinder 3 & 4. 1. Figures are differing only 5% and that's within 10% of each other so no big deal. 2. Most compression test meters measures in WTF units not psi or bar (even if the scale reads psi). So another meter may say 170psi instead... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealcc Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 It runs fine now, no smoke or anything. I guess that my biggest concern is that it might be good for now, but what about in 10-20k miles? I don't want this to turn into a money pit that I can't afford. I guess then that my questions are: 1. What problems are going to or can arise from this? 2. Would it be better to sell it now for close to what I bought it for and just buy something else that I know is going to be more reliable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 If you like the car, then MODIFY:) I wouldn't be bothered by the compression test. This being said, anything can happen in 10-20k miles. Just gotta make a leap of faith. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 You're at 5000' asl. 100psi is a normal compression reading. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 You're at 5000' asl. 100psi is a normal compression reading. good point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 As mentioned, you're at altitude and will have lower numbers. They are all very close which is a good sign. Are you burning any oil? If you have no oil consumption, or very little, odds are the engine is fine. You probably should have bought a used VF40 while running the stock tune, but you're best bet is to install you're new BNR 16g and CNT and get it tuned. Your engine is most likely good, but you can email Dave and cryotuning who is extremely helpful...he can even do your tune since you're in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealcc Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 I just talked to Revolutions Performance. They said that without the altitude (6,500 ft) it'd probably be more around 120-125psi. It smells very faintly of burning oil, but I check the oil level regularly and it isn't dropping. However, with 150k miles on an automatic transmission, it'd wear out much faster with a tune and in the future if the engine would need a rebuild, that's something that I financially can't afford. I hate to say this, but I think I'm going to sell it and get something naturally aspirated that I'll be able to get more miles out of... Maybe in 2-3 years I'll buy another Subie and build it from the ground up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 How much you want? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 ^^^^What he said....how much are you askin'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealcc Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 I'd want $8,500 out of it. If somebody on here is interested, I also have an unopened BNR 16G and an unopened CNT catted DP that I'd be willing to give a deal on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 How much for the catted downpipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealcc Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 $400 shipped for the DP. I'll do a deal for the BNR 16G with the DP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 I want the car My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealcc Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 PM me if you're serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I'm seriously broke. Just an FYI -- Did a compression test on a EJ257 with 10.5:1 compression at about 5200' asl on a cold motor. 98psi all around. Very healthy motor and scored 5% for leakdown. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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