2001 Transmission shifting slowly from 1st to 2nd; goes "neutral" between gears

[diablo75]

I have a 2001 Legacy GT Limited and just recently (in the last couple of days) I've noticed that when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear it kind of does so very slowly. This is consistent regardless of the engines temperature (acts the same when cold or warm). You'll accelerate and when it goes to shift to second it drops out of gear, the engine revs up because it's not pushing against anything, and then it drops into 2nd and the engine falls back to adjust to the speed. The car has about 180K miles on it. Apart from this it shifts fine through all other gears. Could this be something simple to resolve, like checking to fluid levels, or could it be a sign of more serious things to come?

[gimpydingo]

5EAT/4EAT?? Have you checked the tranny fluid levels? When was the last time you changed the tranny fluid?

[diablo75]

I'm a bit embarrassed to say I've not checked the fluid levels yet but I know I've never changed the fluid since I bought it a little over 3 years ago. I don't know how frequently you're supposed to change the fluid... I found this video of a guy changing the fluid on Forester. I'm just assuming but I would imagine the core of what he does is the same since they're both automatic transmissions: drain, refill, drive around for several miles, repeat a couple of times, change the filter. Apart from that I don't know if there is any special steps that need to be taken.

[gimpydingo]

Recommended would be every 60k miles, though some people here do it every 30k. Drain, fill, drive a few miles, drain fill, check fluid level (must be right at the line!), do it 2 or 3 times that should get a good amount of the old fluid out. Depending on how bad the fluid is you may then want to drive it another 500 - 1000 miles and drain and fill again, but you'll have to see what the fluid looks like first.

 

At that miles just a drain and fill is the best bet, you don't want to try to do a full flush, no idea how long it's been since the fluid was changed and don't want to loosen anything that will float around and gum anything up.

 

Might as well do the diff's next.

 

Other people may have other thoughts on the cause.

[diablo75]

I just checked the fluid level and, when warm, it only went across the tip of the dipstick so it's actually lower than what "low" would be if it were cold. I intend to do the drain, fill, drain, fill routine this weekend but for now I'm going to get some AT fluid after I get off work and add enough to bring it up to the proper level. I've seen online that, short of OEM fluid, you can use Castrol Dexron III. I don't know anything about the differences of these fluids or whether I can choose a different brand if it means saving a little money or being able to buy a gallon jug of it instead of individual quarts. Any suggestions?

[gimpydingo]

I would stop driving on that as much as possible until you top it off. That is probably the main issue with the tranny, they are very picky and MUST have the fluid at the right level.

 

Go to the dealership and get the tranny fluid from them. I wouldn't recommend mixing fluids at this point. I would say get 10 quarts - 1 to top off, the others for a drain and fill. I believe the drain and fill takes 3 1/2 - 4/12 quarts, but don't quote me on that and check the stick! Good luck! Let me know how it goes. If it's still acting up

[diablo75]

I added a little fluid to it yesterday and almost immediately noticed an improvement in performance, no slow shifting. The level is still below what it needs but I'll continue to add some more in a little at a time, driving and checking after letting it cool for about 15 minutes (I'm assuming that's the proper technique for checking while "hot"). Would it be best if I waited for the engine to cool and then add and check fluid levels against the cold zone on the dipstick? Also, what's the correct way to read it; I see two pairs of holes for hot and cold, is my target to get the level between the holes for the appropriate temperature?

[gimpydingo]

The bottom hole should be for cold level. When the car is cold top of to that bottom hole. Drive the car around 15 min, then check again and to see if it's hit the top mark. If still a bit low add more, drive and check. You should get it after 2 drives.

 

But def make sure to change that fluid, drain/fill as soon as you can. Easiest way is to have a container with marks on the side, and measure exactly how much came out so you can refill with the same amount. There are a few posts on here about this topic.

[diablo75]

Well I went ahead and changed the fluid out a couple times (drain, fill, drive, drain, fill). I didn't change the filter; I've been under the impression from the videos I've seen that it's not necessary; should only be done after something major. Drives just fine. Thanks for your help!

[gimpydingo]

All working out? Shifting better?

 

Re: the filter, with 180k miles I would suspect it would need replacing. But from what I've read it's a lifetime filter, though SOME people change it. I'll have to defer to someone else to answer.

[diablo75]

Well I changed the transmission fluid a couple times, a couple of weeks ago, and I don't think it's really helped the problem.

 

However, after paying closer attention I noticed that the slipping problem seems to only occur if I'm making a right-hand turn. If I'm driving strait the transmission seems to perform and shift just fine, but if I do something like approach a right hand turn, slow to 10 or 15 mph before turning and give it some gas at the apex, it drops out of gear for a moment and the engine seems to rev freely. I feel like the next move should be taking it to a professional transmission repair shop but I don't know what kind of expense I might be in for and was hoping this kind of unique problem (slipping while turning, fine while strait) had a DIY solution to it but short of simply changing fluid I kinda doubt there's anything else within my capabilities.

 

Thoughts?

[gimpydingo]

Strange. Doesn't do it on a left turn? Have to tried slowing to 10 - 15 while driving straight and then gassing it just as you would in a turn to see if it reacts the same? Outside my knowledge at this point. Hopefully someone else can chime in a with a suggestion.

[diablo75]

I took it to a local transmission repair shop this morning. He mentioned doing some pressure checks and things and said his diagnosis would be free and let me decide if I wanted to proceed with a repair or not. I'll pass along whatever he said but I think at this point I'm just going to go along with whatever he finds and let him fix it.

 

Also, I think the reason I've not noticed much of a slipping problem in right turns is because I almost always have to come to a stop at an intersection before taking one. Usually if I'm taking a left turn I just have to slow down. So basically this slipping issue is a really slow shift from 1st to 2nd or back from 2nd to 1st and it'll even do it if I'm driving strait, I've noticed. Fortunately this hasn't happened with any of the higher gears. Hopefully I won't need a complete overhaul to get this resolved but we'll see what they say.

[diablo75]

Update: I got lucky.

 

It turns out the cause of ALL the above problems was a leaky fluid filter. The thing that bugs me is that I never noticed it. Is there more than one filter for the transmission? The only one I know about for sure is on the front bottom right-hand side (if you're facing the engine from the front of the car). And if I remember it was white. The shop I took the car too brought me a filter off the car that looked all black and appeared to have been crushed by a pair of channel locks, something they didn't do when they removed it but believe someone else did a long time ago. They asked, "Have you taken it somewhere recently to have your oil changed; we only ask because maybe they thought it would help to tighten it for you... with the wrong tool?" I have been known to take the car to Jiffy Lube (over a year ago if I remember) and learned my lesson after they failed to put the air filter manifold back on correctly and cut parts of the bottom cover off to gain access to the oil pan. Idiots. I change my own oil now.

 

Anyway, they got a new filter on, topped off the fluid and now it runs great! Total cost for labor, filter and fluid after tax was $85. I should have just taken it to them to begin with.

[fishbone]

There's only one filter, mounted externally, and looks identical to an oil filter. No surprise the monkeys at Jiffy Lube started unhooking the wrong one.