samtheskull Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hi, I have a '96 wagon that had a broken OEM spoiler, which I removed and plugged the holes for. It had lifted slightly and scraped paint from the roof and trunk lid recess every time it was opened. I want to repair the damage before rust gets hold but it's going to be impossible to sand back without removing the whole trunk lid. My plan is to prop it open, remove the gas struts, close it, undo the hinges and prop open the top edge enough to get the sanding / priming / painting done, without messing with the electrics. Is there a quick way to disconnect the cables at either side though? I haven't been able to see any connectors but maybe I'm not looking in the right place! If so I'll just take the whole thing off - I have a feeling this might be necessary anyway. If so, what's the easiest way to do it? All help much appreciated from a scoob noob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 download the Factory Service Manual from here. It will walk you through it step by step Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samtheskull Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Thanks mate, I will be sure to look to the service manual first in future! Didn't realise it was such a treasure trove. Thanks for making it available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Hi, I have a '96 wagon that had a broken OEM spoiler, which I removed and plugged the holes for. It had lifted slightly and scraped paint from the roof and trunk lid recess every time it was opened. I want to repair the damage before rust gets hold but it's going to be impossible to sand back without removing the whole trunk lid. My plan is to prop it open, remove the gas struts, close it, undo the hinges and prop open the top edge enough to get the sanding / priming / painting done, without messing with the electrics. Is there a quick way to disconnect the cables at either side though? I haven't been able to see any connectors but maybe I'm not looking in the right place! If so I'll just take the whole thing off - I have a feeling this might be necessary anyway. If so, what's the easiest way to do it? All help much appreciated from a scoob noob What two cables are you referring too? I've removed the rear hatch on my wagon a few times so I'm a bit familiar with the process. The hardest part about removing the wiring harness is the two clips that connect to the defroster tabs. One clip is easy to remove while the other is a lot more stubborn. Also, the connection to the clasp is impossible to remove without cutting the wires or removing the whole assembly. To remove the hatch you have to undo the upper brake light harness clip, the defroster tabs, the brake lights, the turn signals, undo do the gas shocks, etc. it helps to have a buddy to lift it off. I'm sure I'm forgetting some details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I think he meant the shocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samtheskull Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 No, I meant the wiring inside the rubber boots on either side of the hatch. I was hoping there was a single connector at either side, somewhere near those boots, to make it easier. I've now bought a pickle fork and removed all of the trim so I can see what's going on, and I've got the service manual from here and a Haynes manual too. I only need to separate top edge of the hatch far enough to get at the damaged paint with my sander, so if I undo all the cable guides maybe there will be enough slack for that. Might tackle it today, and take a photo or two. Thanks for the advice guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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